JonnyG60 10 Posted June 2, 2012 Hello, finally got my wheel alignment sorted which was way off but the car is still pulling to the left. Realised that the front left brake is rubbing slightly. So I had a go a cleaning the pads up using the Wiki guide: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/front_brakes_removal_and_refitting_guide.html Put them back together and its still rubbing, if not a little more! My question is that at "Step 5: the calliper to take this off you will need a 13mm socket and a spanner to hold the nut," what happens if the nut that should be held still actually spins? Does this align the calliper with the disc? If so how do I align it properly? Thanks :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wormy 0 Posted June 2, 2012 My question is that at "Step 5: the calliper to take this off you will need a 13mm socket and a spanner to hold the nut," what happens if the nut that should be held still actually spins? Does this align the calliper with the disc? If so how do I align it properly? It's not aligned.. :-) It basically looks like this, so it doesn't matter if it spins. It's just that you have to hold the "nut" in place, so you can get the bolt out.. :) It's a 10.9 bolt though, with thread lock, so it might take some force to get loose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmwcompact 10 Posted June 2, 2012 (edited) Do you mean car pulls to the left as you are driving or when braking?? Does the disc get hot simply by driving rather than braking cos the brake is partially seized? I think if the car pulls to one side its more likely that you have a worn ball joint somewhere (which alignment wont correct). If a brake was binding the effect would be noticeable on braking in that the defective brake would be less effective. In this case the car would pull to the side with the good brake. Brake overhaul: If you are uncertain about the brake the following may help! The photo in the previous post is a guide pin! The 'nuts' as descibed here are part of the guide pins. In order to remove or reinstall the calipers it is necessary to hold these stationary whilst the bolts attaching caliper to pins are losened/tightened. There is no adjustment/alignment here or anywhere-the brake is so to speak self adjusting. If you took off the caliper and removed the pads, then you must have held them tight otherwise you couldnt have removed the bolts and caliper. If on reinstallation you didnt hold the pins tight then you wont have secured the caliper properly and they will work loose!!! (how could you torque them as per the instruction if the 'nut' was turning???) Any binding of the brake would be caused either by the pads not being free to slide on the caliper or carrier, or if one or both of the guide pins was tight/seized. ( I am discounting the piston being seized). I am assuming that you cleaned up the caliper and carrier and used a copper based grease like Copperease on the parts in contact on reassembly. Did you ensure that the 2 guide pins slid freely (the fact that they turn doesnt mean they are free to slide). If not they should be cleaned up and greased (not with Copperease). Its a white grease that doesnt damage the rubber boots. The guide pins are like a piston in a cylinder with a rubber concertina boot to keep out the dirt. If the boots get torn dirt/water can enter and the pins can no longer slide. You should detach the pins from the carrier to clean them. VAG supply a kit for each caliper at the exhorbitant price of about £12-it contains 2 rubber boots, 2 new bolts to attach the caliper and a sachet of the aforementioned grease for the guide pins. If you are not sure about anything, especially something as important as brakes, its always a good idea to find a mate who is competent to do it with you the first time, then you are certain youve done it correctly. Edited June 2, 2012 by bmwcompact Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JonnyG60 10 Posted June 2, 2012 Hi, thanks for the replies. I undid the bolts and put it back together holding that nut/guide pin still but just though as it did spin at first it may have knocked alignment but clearly it doesnt do that. I've cleaned all the calliper and pads and re-greased the back so im thinking it may be the piston which is the problem. I did notice some fluid on the rubber around the piston... I should point out that these are actually new VAG callipers put on 6 months ago but have only done 800 miles or so and I only noticed this recently. I can tell that the break is rubbing as i can here it squeaking when driving slowly in traffic or wherever. (The guy put on some silly ferrodo pads so they squeak a lot!) I shall check that guide pin properly and then perhaps get the calliper piston looked at. Thanks guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmwcompact 10 Posted June 2, 2012 I doubt theres a problem with the calipers if they are so recent and I would hope that when they were fitted someone checked the guide pins. Yes you put Copperease on the back of the pads, but its on the parts of pad, carrier and caliper that slide together that its most important. If you simply jack up the wheel and spin it, you will find whether theres a problem. Theres often a little noise /friction (its front wheel drive) but there should be no substantial resistance to rotation. If you were losing brake fluid, your resevior would show it and the pads would have been soaked in fluid I say again, if the car is pulling to one side, I would suspect a bj not a binding brake. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dumptyboy 0 Posted June 2, 2012 I would suspect a bj not a binding brake. I like your thinking.......:) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
