Head gasket check/change - Whats needed

[sam2.0 10]

A few people have said its possibly my head gasket that is on its last legs, so I figure I would rather replace it now before it goes.

 

So, what do I need? I've got access to a workshop and a massive range of tools, but is there any specific tools such as cam positioning tool etc?

 

What else is worth doing whilst I've got it all apart? Cam belt? Again special tools required?

 

I'll get a haynes manual as well, so I can read through the process. Mine is a N plate, so do I get the B4 or B5 manual?

 

Any info appreciated.

[davidwort 0]

N plate 2.0 16v?

HG isn't too bad, been a few threads recently about doing 4cyl gaskets,

you'll need a spline tool for the head bolts, new gasket for the upper to lower inlet manifold, a new exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket (the six bolt two pipe one if you leave the exhaust manifold bolted to head) and a new cam belt and tensionner is a good idea while it's apart.

new coolant (two 1L bottles ofr G12+ (or ++ or whatever it is now)) should be enough

obviously new head bolts and gasket, and a stanley paint scraper tool to CAREFULLY clean gasket of the surfaces

cams/timing belt pulleys are marked, so as long as you don't touch the distributor position then it will all bolt back together in the right place, just be careful to tension the timing belt afterwards turn over by hand a couple of rotations and then check the pulley marks, intermediate pulley position is not important on a 16v as it doesn't drive the dizzy, it is on the 8v 2.0 though.

[sam2.0 10]

Correct on the car.

 

Thanks

[tentonhammer 10]

David pretty much covered this really

 

To add though, valve cover gasket is fairly straight forward to do just take your time and don't get any cr*p in the head unit. Stuff lint free rags in the spark plug wells and use a brake or carb cleaner to clean up seal edges etc before fitting the new gasket(s). You might want to consider correct torque settings of course (see tech data below as a guide) although you can easily do this by hand - remember bolts go into soft alloy so don't over tighten!

 

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Valve cover gasket is formed of two parts: Outer perimeter gasket AND inner plug well gasket. Make sure you have both.

 

Word of advice - when you re-seat the valve cover with the new gasket(s) attached make sure you check gasket alignment / symmetry in the plug wells in particular as this is easily over looked. Then of course check perimeter gasket alignment before bolting down.

 

Good luck

Edited November 8, 2012 by tentonhammer

[sam2.0 10]

I assume you mean the "Valve Cover Gaskets" on here: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_gaskets.php.

 

Just getting a list together of bits to buy. Firstly the Haynes, so I can see whats required and ensure I have everything!

[tentonhammer 10]

Valve cover gasket(s) yes.

[bmwcompact 10]

I've not had the head off my 9A engine (head gasket/heater matrix had already been done) but I have replaced the 3 front end oil seals: camshaft, intermediate shaft and crankshaft. So its only a thought but you might considered doing these while you're at it if they have not been done. Both the camshaft and intermediate shaft were leaking badly on mine when I bought it with 134K on the clock.

 

No one has mentioned overhauling the head ie removing/inspecting/cleaning valves and regrinding them. Its something I did on my 8v golf gti, scirocco, polo etc when the head gasket got done. It depends on how confident you are and how much time you have. I bought a tool to remove the valves, and I am sure you could borrow/hire one if you decide to do the job!

 

I have Haynes 1647, Passat May 88 to 91, not the commonest manual on Ebay, but I think thats the one any 2l 16v Corrado owner should have.

Edited November 8, 2012 by bmwcompact

[sam2.0 10]

I've bought the Passat '88-96 one! Damnit. Don't suppose it has the same info in, as mine covers the 88-91 years anyway?