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lesarcsneil

2.0 16v oil seals on cambelt side of engine

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A few days ago I put the car in the garage, then spotted a rather large puddle of oil on the drive. After having a look underneath it was leaking heavily in the vicinity of the timing belt.

 

The car is now stripped down, all aux belts and the timing belt have been removed. We've identified the source of the oil leak as coming from the seal behind the middle pulley on the timing belt. Whilst the car is stripped down I think that it's a good idea to replace all 3 oil seals behind the pulleys on the timing belt.

 

Cue a visit to the local dealer to order parts. Unfortunately I got a young lad who was probably younger than the car. After an hour of toing and froing (EKTA is now top secret) I think that I've managed to order the oil seals:

 

1) oil seal behind cam pulley

2) oil seal behind middle pulley (oil pump?)

3) oil seal behind crank pulley

 

I've also ordered a new timing belt as it had been covered in oil. The tensioner is only 12 months old so isn't going to be replaced.

 

Can someone kindly look up the part numbers for me on EKTA to confirm that I've got the correct ones? I foolishly left the invoice in my desk drawer at work today so won't be able to post what I've ordered until tomorrow.

 

It's a 9A 2.0 16v engine.

 

On a positive note the oil was only on the dipstick 'MIN' mark when I checked so it hasn't destroyed the engine. I feel very lucky that I'm not doing an engine swap....

 

Thanks in advance

 

Neil

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All 3 oil seals are the same. 068 103 085E is one number but there may be others since the seal probably fits various engines/cars which may have different nos. They are widely available, Ebay, Febi from lots of sources, etc much cheaper than VAG.

 

Its a good idea to change all 3 seals. I changed my belt and camshaft seal only to find I still had a leak-it was the intermediate shaft seal (drives oil pump). The handbook says the seal housing should be removed to replace this seal. The crankshaft seal presents some with a problem-they cant lock the crankshaft to remove the crankshaft pulley-theres lots of info on the forum. Similarly its important to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt and to torque it up correctly. There are lots of problems with this coming loose if not done correctly. (again documented on Forum)

 

I'm assuming you are happy with setting the timing/tensioning the belt.

 

I have a 9A, and I have changed all 3 seals.

Edited by bmwcompact

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The original order had 2x 068 103 085E but they actually had a third seal in stock. They aren't cheap at the dealers but seeing as the originals lasted 18 years and 133k miles then you can't really argue.

 

We didn't have any trouble getting the crankshaft and intermediate shaft pulleys off the other night but I'm more of a spectator as I've got a mechanic working on the car. I didn't have the confidence to do the timing belt but I'll get him to show me how it's done and take some pictures before he puts it all back together. It took 2 and a half hours to identify the source of the leak and strip it all down and I'm guessing that it'll take about the same to put it back together. It would have taken me considerably longer to do it on my own.

 

Thanks very much for the information, I guess I owe you a pint the next time I'm up in the Lake District.

 

Neil

 

94 Flash Red 16v

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The plot thickens...

 

Mechanic replaced all 3 oil seals on Friday evening. New timing belt and aux belts on and everything is now back together and running ok.

 

However he showed me that the intermediate shaft (drives oil pump) pulley had about 1mm of sideways movement. He thinks that the intermediate shaft bearing is worn, possibly by an over-tightened timing belt in the past.

 

So the question is, is it possible to replace this bearing (on the timing belt side of the engine) with the engine still in the engine bay?

 

He's got access to specialist tools from work and thinks that he can remove the bearing without too much trouble. He thinks that the oil-pump would have to be removed from the bottom of the engine and we'd have to take the sump off to help with access. Is the bearing press-fit or is there a special tool to fit it?

 

Thanks,

 

Neil

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In my many years of VW ownership I have never removed an intermediate shaft (polos, jettas, golfs, scirocco and corrado).

 

I have the Haynes manual for a MK 2 Golf and Haynes 1647 for Passat 88-91 which covers the 9A engine. What I do know is that the intermediate shaft can be pulled forward out of the engine once the seal flange is removed but only with the engine removed-theres not enough space with the engine in situ. You dont need to remove the sump or oil pump to do this.

 

The Passat manual shows a photo of the shaft removed and says the journals should be inspected for wear. Theres no mention of its bearings. The Golf manual says 'If the shaft is in good order, but the bearings in the block are worn, this job is beyond your scope: you may even need a new block, so seek expert advice." Maybe its the shaft journal which is worn.

 

Haynes sometimes says a job is not possible and it is!

 

Your mechanic would be best advised to seek advice from someone in the trade who deals with VW engines and knows the score. Maybe someone on this forum whose rebuilt an engine can offer a more optimistic note.

 

Good luck-I am interested to hear the outcome.

 

Just found this -may help your mechanic and sounds more encouraging than Haynes:

 

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&cad=rja&ved=0CGsQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clubgti.com%2Fshowthread.php%3F239239-9a-intermediate-shaft-bearing(with-pic)&ei=GzihUIK0CaeW0QWopYGIAQ&usg=AFQjCNEm3pIbi5BsQ_079CiINV-PTAKPCA&sig2=cqSkUQIsDh0KUiHDGr8MOQ

Edited by bmwcompact

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The plan is to do as few miles as possible in the car and try to make it through to March. I spent last winter in the garage and it wasn't much fun. Progress was a lot quicker in the spring. There is a spare car which I will get back on the road in case I really need it.

 

Then it'll be an engine out job, at this point it's worth doing a bottom end rebuild as the car is now on 134k miles. There are plenty of other things to do whilst the engine is out, the clutch has seen better days and it needs a new exhaust manifold and radiator.

 

I'm intrigued to find out why the 9A has a habit of wears out these bearings (from the link to ClubGti I'm not the only person who has experienced this). The car had a full main dealer service history for the first 8 years. I've been changing the oil between services, so it's been on 6 month oil changes ever since. The only odd thing we noticed when changing the oil seal was that there were a couple of pieces of 'foil' from an oil top-up bottle embedded in the oil seal. I've never used a top-up bottle, only the bigger 5 litre containers which don't have a seal so this may have been in there for a long time.

 

Neil

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