Rear Brakes, Some help please

[Madjackal 0]

I got to fitting my new rear brakes today only to be stumped by the allen key style bolt holding the caliper on to the rear hub/subframe.

 

1. Can someone confirm for me the correct size of driver I need as I thought I had the correct size but it was so rusty in there it was too hard to tell. (Don't ask me the size I have I'm not sure and forgot to check before calling it a day)

 

2. Does anyone have any good procedure for doing this as the brake hoses and suspension strut all really get in the way, making it hard to get a good purchase in the hex.

 

3. What do I do if I have (hypothetically speaking, ahem...) rounded the inside of the bolt?

 

I will be heading over to the stealers tomorrow for new bolts, however whilst on the subject, who's idea was it to use these abominations, instead of nice normal right minded hex bolts, they are good enough for the fronts, so why not the rears. I've always struggled doing the rear brakes cos the bolts cant seem to stand up to the torque required to get them off, especially since the rears and subject to higher risk of rusting due to longer maintenance intervals!

 

Bad choice VW, bad choice!

[Riley 0]

Irwin bolt removers will get them out, you may have to pop the strut out for enough clearance though. Recently had to do it myself. Can't remember the Allen size off the top of my head, although I do know that a standard hex head won't do as a socket won't go on because of the abs sensor.

[Madjackal 0]

by the way i do have an angle grinder!? :)

[Supercharged 2]

8mm mate, only use a socket and bash it in with a hammer to make sure it's all the way.

 

If you can't undo then soak in fluid and get some Irwin Bolt Grippers (Homebase sell them)

[Madjackal 0]

ok i'll take a look thanks!

[Supercharged 2]

by the way i do have an angle grinder!? :)

 

Don't use it - you'll screw the ABS sensor!

[Madjackal 0]

8mm mate, only use a socket and bash it in with a hammer to make sure it's all the way.

 

If you can't undo then soak in fluid and get some Irwin Bolt Grippers (Homebase sell them)

 

Fluid?

[Supercharged 2]

WD40 or PlusGas etc...

[Madjackal 0]

Ok cool thanks, what about heating it up with a blow torch will that more than likely knacker the sensor too?

[Supercharged 2]

Ok cool thanks, what about heating it up with a blow torch will that more than likely knacker the sensor too?

 

I'd be wore worried about setting fire to either the brake fluid or fuel tank...

 

Get some Irwins, they work a treat although i've only ever had to use them once on rear brakes - it's just lazy mechanics not changing those bolts that cause the issue, they only do up to 65Nm so should come undone ok with a socket and blow with a hammer to break the 'rust seal'

[Madjackal 0]

rust seal! lol. I am very well aquainted with that! Cool ok. Will pick the grippers up tomorrow, and see if Wolsey have some bolts.

 

I just cant help my affinity with big, load and firey tools!

 

Cheers for the help dude!!

[VW_OwneR_85 1]

hammer in a spline bit thats what i do with knackered allen heads,

[Elliot N 10]

Yeah I second the irwin extractors, similar to Turbosockets which I use...make sure you have lots of leverage! if that fails and you have access to a welder you can also weld a nut onto the head of the allen and use that to unscrew the bolt, you get a similar heat effect too! but just be cautious of the fuel system and any fluid you have sprayed onto the part (nearly set fire to a Peugeot 106 before trying to loosen a bolt with heat and WD40 xD, not advised!)

[Supercharged 2]

hammer in a spline bit thats what i do with knackered allen heads,

 

That's too much hard work if you can get an Irwin round it - will remove them in seconds!

 

Al - If Wolsey don't have the Corrado ones ask for MK3 Golf ones, they are 1mm longer I think which is fine but 50p each rather than £2 and they may have them on the shelf.

 

BTW - If you're doing the pads then you'll need a Windback tool!

[Madjackal 0]

That's too much hard work if you can get an Irwin round it - will remove them in seconds!

 

Al - If Wolsey don't have the Corrado ones ask for MK3 Golf ones, they are 1mm longer I think which is fine but 50p each rather than £2 and they may have them on the shelf.

 

BTW - If you're doing the pads then you'll need a Windback tool!

 

 

Did one side yesterday after getting the grippers, was a pig to get to. Whoever designed that bracket that holds the brake line in place need shooting. its so wide I couldn't get my wrench onto the driver, nor could I get a spanner on the gripper and when i used a small extension bar the sus strut was in the way! Anyway a lot of fiddling and hammering and messing about and I finally did it.

 

I already have the piston winder so no worries there, that was a pig to wind back!! Just got the other side to do now, which I'm off to do in a few mins, but I'm gonna douse it in wd40 first and hope the bolts aren't so bad on the offside. Its just the bearings that I hate doing, its such a laborious process!

 

Speaking of which does anyone have a torque setting for the bolt that holds the bearing in? (that goes on the stub axle before the cover and split pin). The one I just took off was barley hand tight. This doesn't hold the wheel on I take it!?!?

[Riley 0]

That's about right for the bearing nut. They only need be a little more than hand tight. What I do is to nip them up loosely with a ratchet, literally just till they stop turning, then go 1/8th of a turn tighter and then actually undo half of that turn and fit the split pin around there. The idea is to nip them up to squeeze grease/seat the bearing and then undo a little to not have the bearing running tight.

 

You should always check them after a week or so too if you have regreased/fitted new bearing etc.