Corrado VR6 cutting out then not starting, PROBLEM FIXED, SEE PG. 4.

[VW_chris 10]

If you're sure the ignition switch is ok then try another 109 relay if you can out of another car - MK4 TDI's use the same

 

I think then you should make look at trying another ECU

 

PS - you sure Dizzy timing / firing order etc are correct?

 

ill try relay 109 when i can, ive opened it up and watched it switch so i know it operates fine, ive tested my alarm system also, relay clicks as it should all wires connected correctly also, immobilizer is constantly turned off i know because i wired it and ive checked said wiring twice now.

 

i believe the wires are in this order, (black - black/red - brown) i have 12v with the ignition on over black and brown.

 

i have a spare coil from a vw scirocco, a proper coil, does anyone know which way i could wire this up to try and get it to work with my car, if it would work??

[VW_chris 10]

ALSO, there is 2 parts to the distributor ran VR6 coil pack, i have replaced the main piece, unsure how to test first piece as the bently manual gives no instrictions for this, just the main part of the coil itself.

 

does anyone know what resistances should i expect to see across which pins?

 

also, if this part were to fail, would this allow 12v to pass through the coil on ignition without it being amped up?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76025[/ATTACH]

 

as you expect, this is getting pretty expensive but i dont care, i just need my car to work before monday, tomorrow is my last chance to get this working.

Edited October 18, 2013 by VW_chris

[robrado974 1]

Hi mate , sorry to hear it's still not starting . If you take the centre lead off the dizzy , would you not see a spark from the end , when cranking ? , the only thing I can think of now is the hall sender .

Rob

[VW_chris 10]

Hi mate , sorry to hear it's still not starting . If you take the centre lead of the dizzy , would you not see a spark from the end , when cranking ? , the only thing I can think of now is the hall sender .

Rob

 

how do, ive put a ht lead onto the the coil itself to see if its sparking with the new coil, its not, the only bit i havnt replaced/tested is the bit above, weather thats failed or not i dont know as theres no guidelines in the bently manual.

 

however, i could proberly get one of another car, it seems, theese coil packs were fitted to a lot of cars, a 1.4 polo coil pack looks extremely similar to the vr6 one. i know the 1.4 polo one is 1.5 litres down and missing 2 cylinders, but going of a general engine stroke cycle, it should produce the voltage i need to get a spark, even if its powering 6 cylinders instead of 4.

 

with regards to the hall sender, im unsure on how to test it and what resistance i should see across what pins, i am getting 12v to that wiring connector also.

[VW_chris 10]

does anyone know if there is a way to bypass this

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76025[/ATTACH]

[robrado974 1]

If theres no power to a new coil then that rules out the hall sender . I would now go from the coil backwards ,looking for problems , as it seems theres no power getting to the new coil , so there must be something amiss from the connection into the coil

Rob

[J.C 10]

no, that is the control amp for the coil,

basic knowledge of how a coil sysytem creates a spark (I think) is needed,

A spark is created when the energy stored in the primary winding of the coil is reversed by switching off the supply to the coil, this in return causes the secondary coil to produce voltage (scale is proportionate to primary and secondary windings ratio) which then gets distributed to the plugs by the distributer,

It's no good just testing voltage with ignition on or cranking, you ned to find out if the coil is receiving the "off" pulse from the ECU via the amp module

[Supercharged 2]

Ok - just having a read through the workshop manuals...

 

I think you need to double check the basics again before buying any other parts.

 

Double check fuse 18, swap the Fuel pump and ECU relays for known working ones - your FB relay being 67 means it's original (should be 167 now)

 

The fuel pump in a VR has no advance motion - the relay is activated by the ECU when it receives a signal from the Crank sensor and supplies power to the fuel pump via fuse 18.

 

Also check the coolant temp sensor resistance - if this is faulty it will make it difficult to start (although i'm sure it would have done by now)

 

If the above is ok then all I can really think of is a faulty ECU, fault in wiring loom, dead engine or fuel pump failure.

Edited October 19, 2013 by Supercharged

[VW_chris 10]

hey guys,

 

well, shes running again.

 

managed to get her going this morning by using the coil pack of a mk4 polo 1.4. (exactly the same part, only slightly different by the way it looks.), people need to be aware that these coil packs are exactly the same in the way they function as to whats fitted to many other VAG cars. no need to spend fortunes when similar parts can be obtained quicker and easier off other cars, sadly corrado parts are getting more scarce and expensive by the day.

 

the part pictured the ignition control module was broken. constantly closed circuit. i literally mean before this broke as in a day or two before, i had a rough idle, in the past i have had intermittent issues when Ive put my foot down and it was extremely hesitant to go, to the point where ive pulled over to see what was going on. it seems these was the warning signs of this part failing.

 

people also need to know there is two parts to a dizzy ran VR6 coil pack, just because one bit is ok, does not mean the other bit is.

 

i dont suppose any mods would make this sticky?, ive seen a few threads on here where several people have had very similar if not the same problems.

[robrado974 1]

Nice one , glad you got it sorted .

[J.C 10]

great news

enjoy!!!!

[Supercharged 2]

Good stuff - well done for persevering!

[RS G60 10]

VW_chris,

 

All I can say is thank you!!!

 

If it wasn't for this thread I think there would have been lots more money sunk into trying to resolve my cutting out and non start problem.

 

 

It is hard to keep thinking clearly when you are clutching at straws or almost convincing yourself it is one thing over another. In the end I ran a few Bentley testsand had an ignition specialist test the coil and make a new coil to distributor lead.

 

I wanted it fixed as soon as possible to be able to make an appointment to get the exhaust fixed, the best shop has a waiting list.

 

So I ordered the coil and ICM as a unit without the result of the test on the ICM. I ended up with a Valeo item better than a no name version.

 

When I went to pick up the new part I asked about how the old one tested.

 

It tested bad so I was hopeful all involved, including you VW_chris, had been collectively correct.

 

Started first time, I was a bit nervous about driving it again as it had left me stranded a number times recently.

 

Long story short put it under plenty of load and not a sign of cutting out. Got it back home and shut it off and tried starting again, no problems at all.

 

I hope this means the problem is solved.

 

There is so much misleading information on a lot of forums so it is easy to get lead on a long expensive journey through Corrado hell.

 

 

Again I am very grateful to have found this thread and want to also thank Performance Ignition in Nunawading Victoria Australia, especially Andrew, for their great help and finding the correct replacement for the coil and ICM when they aren't readily available in Australia.

 

 

Thank you all.

Edited September 22, 2015 by RS G60
spelling grammar