exhaust lambda probe/sensor 16v 9a

[Kempy 0]

Hi

 

I've realised that there's no lambda on my rado. I've added a 4 branch manifold and it's not been replaced. There is a spare lead where in the engine for this. I imagine that this has a lot to do with its poor running atm. Question is can an exhaust specialist sort that out themselves, or will I need to ask for a probe in the wanteds section? Thanks again. Getting there slowly

[davidwort 0]

ask for a probe in the wanteds section

that sounds painful!

I'd imagine what you need is a standard lambda sensor and a hole drilled and a screw thread for the sensor welding to the exhaust behind the 4 branch, any competent garage could do this for you

 

I got an NTK lambda sensor cheaply (about 40 quid I think) from ECP, don't get a cheap generic one though

[Kempy 0]

I'll give my exhaust guy a call,cheers mrWort. Helpful and speedy as ever!!

[Kempy 0]

Should I get a kr one.. The head is from a kr.

[davidwort 0]

Kr doesn't have a cat and doesn't have a lambda sensor, the kr cylinder heads are almost identical to a 9a and have no effect on emissions.

I'm confused now, is you car a 2l 9a with the ke jetronic injection? This has a plastic cover over the metering head and a lambda, cat and knock sensor unlike the 1.8 kr engine

Edited October 20, 2013 by davidwort

[Kempy 0]

All it has from a kr is the head and cams. Otherwise its 9a.

[davidwort 0]

Ok, then you definitely need lambda feedback to the ecu or it won't fuel or set the ignition advance correctly as it will always run in limp mode

[Kempy 0]

thanks.. make sense :bonk:

[Kempy 0]

had this fitted today. Would I notice something instantly, with regards to the running/idle?

I'm gonna put some more details in my build thread

[davidwort 0]

With these old type lambda sensors and ecus, feedback is only used once the engine is up to operating temperature, so it won't affect the car when cold, but at hot idle I've come across several 9a's that wouldn't idle properly with dodgy or cheap generic sensors.

you should also get the ecu read for fault codes, the 9a ecu isn't very clever and I'm not sure it even stores faults but it should give any current faults.

Edited October 23, 2013 by davidwort

[Kempy 0]

I've had a Bosch sensor fitted apparently, cost me about £70, when it was warmed up it sounded alright bit idle seemed a bit high, around 1100. I'll have to find a local place with a fault finder for this ecu.

[Kempy 0]

Would disconnecting the battery help to reset the ecu? Tbh today I took it for a little drive and it felt a lot better anyway.

[davidwort 0]

I'd imagine it would on the 16v, if you ever get to meet up with someone who has vag-com/vcds and the 2+2 connector lead for the 9a (ccgb stand at shows etc) it would still be interesting to see what comes up. Is your coolant sensor ok? It's easy enough to test on the car, you just need a thermometer and multi meter that does resistance, run the car to temp and then turn off, then take temp and resistance readings every 5 minutes for an hour or so, also when cold. The sensor graphs for resistance and temp are fairly easy to find to make sure it's always in tolerance at all temps, I've found sensors also vary from one to another.