dames 0 Posted May 26, 2004 ok, so its time to change my timing belt. is it as easy as marking the positions of the cam pulley and the crank shaft pulley then simply remove and replace the belt and tensioner without moving the markings? I'm guessing that there is more to it than that but i havent got any books to refer to and i know what will happen if i balls it up!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
W3RKD 0 Posted May 26, 2004 Here you go this should help.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted May 26, 2004 Cheers Darren, you beat me to it - I was about to post the exact same documents 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted May 26, 2004 dames, - word of warning - when you put the belt back on, remove the distributor cap & make sure that the rotor is pointing to cylinder No.1. I was in the unfortunate position of some fool removing & replacing my distributor back in the wrong position - consequently my intermediate pulley timing marks do not match up properly, even though the timing is set correctly !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TajMan 0 Posted May 29, 2004 So do you have to buy that special wrench to tension the pulley? I'm trying to put my new timing belt on right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted May 29, 2004 nah, I've always used a bent bit if wire coathanger... :? :lol: Just make sure there is around 90degrees of play in the belt on it's way between the camshaft pulley and the intermediate shaft pulley and that's about right for the tension... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TajMan 0 Posted June 2, 2004 How well do the timing marks line up? I've re-done it at least five times trying to get them lined up perfectly. I get the crank pulley and that other pulley lined up but the cam pulley doesn't line up inbetween the two dots. The top of the head lines up with one of the dots, if I move it another full tooth I think it will be farther off than it is now. Is this normal? Do the marks ever line up exactly or are they off a little? I can turn the crank with a wrench and it turns freely, no valves hitting pistons, and the distributor shows its firing the #1 cylinder like it should. I just hate doing timing belts on cars because you never know if your going to destroy the engine or if it will run untill you get it all back together and start it. :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted June 2, 2004 For a quick test - you can start the engine for a short period of time with the rest of the parts & belts still removed. During this running you will need to beware of the engine temperature as the waterpump will not be running !! Put the belt on & tension it up, then start the engine. It will be immediately apparent if the belt is a tooth or two out. From what u have said about the cam pulley - I would rotate it very slightly in a clockwise direction until the belt will go on. HTH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 2, 2004 The two dots should be either side of the join on the head where the head meets the rocker cover at the front of the engine. Which way are you pulling the tension onto the belt? this is important as if you are putting the belt on and pulling it in the wrong direction you'll never get it tensioned up properly or get it lined up either... :? The way to do it is to put the belt onto the teeth around the crank pulley, pull it towards the front of the engine (keeping it taught) around the intermediate shaft's pulley (making sure that stays lined up, then up and over the cam (still keeping it all taught) and then flick it over the cam tensioner, and tension it up there while making sure it stays taught over the cam and doesn't slip anywhere.... you should find that doing that by hand you will get about 90degrees of twist on the belt between the cam and the intermediate shaft which is about right... 8) It may take a couple of attempts to do it if you've not done one before, but keep trying, it does all line up... 8) Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TajMan 0 Posted June 3, 2004 Well maybe I've got to take some pictures to show you guys, I have to get some batteries for my camera. Thats about how I've been doing it, turning the tensioneer clockwise with about 90 degrees in the belt. After all that is done and you turn the engine over a few times and line up the crank pulley again, the cam pulley lines up with one of the dots (not inbetween both of the dots). If I move it another full tooth it will be more off than it is now so I think its right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted June 3, 2004 Just a quick thought - 2 more things to check 1. Double check that u have the correct cam belt ! 2. The crankshaft timing mark on the flywheel is more accurate than the mark on the pulley - remove the plastic cover on the top of the bell housing & check that the mark on the flywheel is perfectly lined up with the mark on the bell housing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 3, 2004 It's also worth noting that there is a mark on THE OTHER side of the cam gear which should line up with the top face of the front of the head when at TDC No.1..... you need to take the rocker cover off to see it, but this should clear up any chance of mis-alignment... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites