noisey tappty top end valver

[Kempy 0]

I changed the head on my valver a few years ago now for a KR head, I bought it from here in the classifieds. It was refurbished with all new parts, ( I couldnt find the Pm between me and the seller so unsure who it was and what was done with it exactly)

 

Anyway..

 

Even though it was fitted many years ago, its probably done under 200/300 miles, will this noise improve as its worn in? I does have a 4 branch and no foam under the bonnet so general noise is more but its definitely tappety. The oil is at the right level and I've changed it 2 since having the new head. I've also use a oil/smoke additive but the smoke has stopped to be honest.

 

What do you think?

 

Thanks :)

[Kempy 0]

bumpy

[Corradokid82 10]

Try a thicker oil first, I used to run 15/50 in my old valver and I currently run 10/60 in my G60. Just make sure oil temp is up before adjusting the right foot!

If that doesn't help it may be new followers required. That said I read that having the timing out ever so slightly can cause that tappy noise but only what I read, I've not experienced this.

[Kempy 0]

cant seem to get oil temp that high, I'll try a thicker oil next. Could well be timing can check that next.

 

cheers :)

[Corradokid82 10]

No problem, let us know how it goes.

[Kempy 0]

I've put a new load of 10/40 oil and it does start quietly but once warm the tapping becomes louder. Anyone else use 15/50 or different in their valver? How much am I looking at for someone to replace the followers, could I do it myself? With head in place for example

[lesarcsneil 0]

Hi,

The cam followers are £6 each from vwspares, 16 of them will set you back the best part of £100, you may as well put on a new cam chain whilst you're there and budget to replace the cam cover gasket and the inlet manifold gasket too.

 

http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_valvetrain.php

 

It's a reasonable amount of work:

1) Set engine to TDC, mark timing belt to pulleys with tipp-ex in a few places. This helps with re-assembly

2) Remove inlet manifold and pipework

3) Remove cam cover

4) Remove aux and timing belts

5) Remove cams, the cam caps are matched to the head and you have to retain position/orientation for each cam cap. There is an sequence to follow for undoing the cam cap bolts as the cams are removed/reinstalled to avoid putting too much stress on the cams.

6) Remove lifters, they just lift out without any special tools.

 

Removal is the reverse of assembly to quote the Haynes book 'o lies.

 

There's a very good guide on how to change 16v cams on ClubGti in the 16v engine section which should give you an idea of the amount of work required.

 

It's time-consuming methodical work, so worth chatting to a local VW specialist to get an idea of price.

 

Neil

[Kempy 0]

Probably should of done them last week when I done head gasket. So the Hydraulic cam followers will be making the noise? and they simply lift out once the cams are out? I've had the cams out once or twice before and very recently so I'm familiar with that part. In the Head gasket set I had valve stem seals, are they any harder to fit once the cam followers are out?

[lesarcsneil 0]

It's the hydraulic cam followers that make the tappety noise, my new ones are a lot quieter. They just lift out once the cams are removed, I think I used a magnet to lift them out.

 

I got my head professionally refurbed so the valve stem seals and valve guides were done. The car was on 138k miles and the valve guides were worn and in need of replacement. I didn't do this work myself but the bloke had the valves out and on the bench within 15 minutes of me arriving as he wanted to check the head over (I'd already removed the cams). He did have some specific tools for removing valves which made it look very simple, it's probably not quite so easy when you're doing it yourself.

 

Neil

[lesarcsneil 0]

Just re-reading your first post, if it's been refurbished then the valve guides and stem seals have probably been done.

 

Neil

[borders16v 0]

I use 15/50 in my valver in summer and 15/40 in winter.Seems to run smoother and uses less oil too. Switch back in winter to ease pressure on start up in cold winter mornings. Give it a go for £40.

[Kempy 0]

Ill try run the car for a bit first. Its done less than 100 miles in 5 or 6 years. Might need to be run in a bit. Just waiting to tax it next week