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Johnboy98

How do you disengage passenger side Driveshaft from gearbox?

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Lo Guys n Gals, right Im about halfway through changing my chains and tensioners anyone know how do you remove passenger side Driveshaft from the gearbox so I can drop the box ?? (Any other gearbox dropping pointers would be much appreciated like replacing 1 fit items)

 

Thanks all in advance!!

 

Couple of other bits and bobs right Joe M if your reading this then you should have either recieved your gas Flowed TB today if not most definately tomorrow.

 

Found this website today for downloading ETKA it seems cheap as chips but haven't got round to downloading it yet and they give you regular free updates ..Laters!

 

http://www.autocd.com./autocd.html?q=10&gc=798&sha=0

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You need an 8mm spline tool to undo the 6 bolts securing the inner CV to the gearbox flange. Then tie it out of the way.

 

If you want to remove the Driveshaft completely you'll have to undo the hub nut (done up to 195 pounds, so put some bricks in front of the front wheels to stop the car rolling forward as you slacken it off), then remove the two 17mm strut bolts, tilt the hub forward then pull the complete driveshaft free.

 

Then drop the box. 4 big 19mm bolts basically hold it to the block.

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Kev ive already done that with the drivers side but the passenger side shaft seems to go right in...I dont want to remove it just wanna move it up oot of the way !!

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Right into where? Try turning the steering on full lock? Honestly, once the bolts are out it *should* just drop down!

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pop out the bottom ball joint and pull the hub toward you.....this is what I would do, but I am not siting on front of your car just now! if u do this, u need to watch the drive shaft dosnt come out of the outer cv and damage the boot.

 

HTH

 

*EDIT:

 

if u have already done what kev said, then I am not sure what the problem is, the DS should just fall out.

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Cheers guys...it just needed a bit of a hefty clout (still has been on for 170k), brut force and ignorance why that evaded me I have no idea! ;)

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Couple of other bits and bobs right Joe M if your reading this then you should have either recieved your gas Flowed TB today if not most definately tomorrow.

 

 

8) not here yet. Hopefully tommorow then. :D

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In a long time. :(

Just been changing my rear top mounts and found that the rear suspension is still red sachs, wich will explain some handling issues ive been having. :roll:

 

Guess where my moneys going next...

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Wait for it......."And Haywire recommends H&Rs and Konis....." LOL!

 

Vince has got my 268s, not sure when I'll be putting those in as the ECU is going to need another remap.

 

I tell you what, I think I'm going to need that Quaiffe soon as today was the first time I've used the car in anger with the Schrick and it was wheel spinning in 3rd :?

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In the dry I can floor it in first with no wheelspin. 8) Its one mod you really wont regret spending the cash on.

I think ill go for the Koni coilovers tbh, been considering them for a while, its just now they've moved to the top of a very long list.

 

Will Vince replace your current chip or copy over it? Its just im sure the old chip could come in handy. :wink:

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Sorry I forgot to mention used in anger in the *rain* for the first time today! I get the odd tyre chirp in 1st when joining a roundabout in the dry, but other than that, it's spin free. The original torque in first wouldn't blow the skin off rice pudding.

 

Koni coillies should be cool, still waiting to sample Roddy's car to form an opinion of those but Tom's FKs are superb, so you should be onto a winner there.

 

You can have my TB + Shrek'd chip mate. Unfortunately mine will need redoing from scratch to cater for the 268s :cry:

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When I've got Geoff in to remap my ECU for the 268s, prolly Autumn I reckon, I'll PM you and send you my old chip.

 

But you will need to solder in a chip holder to your ECU to accept it though, not too much hassle.

 

K

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Nice one, just let me know how much you want for it.

Will need to find out if it works in the later ecus as well, id imagine it might but ill lose the immobiliser feature?

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Not much, £50?

 

You've got a 95, so that's borderline CP or AG ECU. It will work in either ECU, so not a problem. I'll take a pic of my circuit board nearer the time to give you a better idea of what you need to do.

 

The Immobiliser portion of the CP ECU is seperate from the actual ignition/fuelling map chip, so you should be OK.

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johnboy98, throttle body arrived this morning, cheers.

 

kevhaywire, £50 sounds good, im pretty sure I have the later ecu as my key has a built in immobiliser. (I know this because 1 key works and the other doesn't.)

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hang on, you're tackling a chain job yourself but you don't even know how to take a driveshaft out!! :!: :shock:

 

have fun with the timing then.......

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hang on, you're tackling a chain job yourself but you don't even know how to take a driveshaft out!! :!: :shock:

 

have fun with the timing then.......

 

Yeah thanks for the usefull input ! :salute:

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ah sorry.

 

remove the 6 #8 spline bolts.

 

there, does that hellp?

 

Wow what an asshole you seem to be, get over yourself !

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