VR6 health check

[dav 0]

What would be the correct method to conduct a general health check on a VR6 engine, I know that plugging in VAG-COM will bring up error codes, but what other checks are there. I suppose what I am trying to get at is, are there any other engine specific test other than a compression test?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Just check for smoke, strange noises and rough running etc.

 

Listen out for a grinding noise from the gearbox side of the head, which equals an impending chain job. Starts off as slight whirring, then turns into a full on rattling noise. This end of the head should be silent. Top end is always slightly tappey and nothing to concerned about.

 

Other than that, if it drives well, is smooth and pulls hard from from 3,750rpm, then it's probably a good one.

 

Take a plug wrench with you (if viewing a car) and check plugs 1 and 6 for oil fouling. If they are, walk away. The bores have ovalised.

 

K

[dav 0]

Thanks for the reply mate,

 

Was actually talking about my VR, it’s a bit of an odd one as I gave it a service last weekend, Plugs, Oil, (quantum silver 10w40) Oil filter (Mann), Air filter (Mann), Rota cap, Rota arm (original still glued on) and front engine mount. All the old plugs seemed fine, kind of grey in colour. The cap and rota must have been the originals so were quite knackered. Oil was not that dirty either. Done all of this in about two hours, started her up let the oil circulate then checked for leeks. Now the car seem to drive really sweet and it pulls really well, better than it did post service, but it sounds a bit more tappet’y and at idle it feels a bit more lumpy even though the revs stay steady at about 650-ish rpm. The car has had new Chains, guides Rails, Tensioner and that side of the engine seem to be a lot quieter than the other, also had new Tappet’s fitted then as well, and that’s what’s bugging me.

Lumpy idle and noisy on the air box side of the engine, Any clues?

Should I have also bled the tensioner when I done the service?

 

Thanks for any replies

 

D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No you don't need to bleed the tensioner, especially if you've got a MK4 12V sprung tensioner like I have :lol:

 

The old style tensioners only need a bleed if they get air trapped in them, which is rare or if some plum didn't setup it up correctly to begin with.

 

Don't concern yourself with the idle. You'll just be chasing your tail trying to cure that one. I've yet to find a VR that has a dead smooth idle, and I've looked at 7 since getting mine. They're all the same.

[dav 0]

That cool mate, I suppose I can just tell people who ask about it, that it has got some kind of wild cam in there. :wink:

 

What’s the difference between the two tensioners and how do I tell which one I have got.

Another question I have what’s the deal with all these different tests: leak down test and compression test I know that there’s another but not sure.

I just want to know what’s going on in there if you get what I mean :?

 

Thanks

D