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123jamesrob

Starting problems and cutting out

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Morning all, got an on going issues with the Rado. The coil keeps failing on a 9a 16v, I've replaced r once and it seems to have failed again. Getting no spark to plugs already changed dizzy HT leads and rotor arm.

 

Prior to it having no spark and not starting it was intermittently cutting out and not restarting. I'm gathering this is also electrical as the smell of fuel is apparent from turning it over.

 

Any idea why the coil would keep failing...?

 

Thanks

 

 

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I imagine that Your using an original Bosch yellow sticker coil with external amplifier?

Have you checked to see if 12v+ is present at the coil terminals with the ignition on?

Have you tried pulling the main ht lead out from the coil tower to see If you get a spark on turning over the engine?

Might be a duff ign. switch contact, exclude it by hot wiring a wire from the pos. terminal of the battery to the positive side of the coil, +1 or +15, I can never remember which one is the +I've side of coil, it's 45 degrees here in Rome and I'm frazzled..

Try doing those tests and report back.

Edited by VEEDUBBED

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Right so, checked it all. Seems it's the module part there's power before it's plugged in then no power. It's the stupid looking coil on the 9a that are now rarer than rocking horse poo or extortionately priced. I've bought another coil it's not correct as the connection is too small. I'm thinking of finding the connection plug that fits the coil I've got. (Coils from EuroCP) picture of it below.

It says it's the correct one but the connectors too small so would you have any idea what the correct plug would be on? Clearly it's not a 9a engine.

 

d0bee37cbb8dd574f3eace843d6fe305.jpg

 

 

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Nothing Like a 16v coil..dumb ****s.. Looks like the 8v 2.0 single cam coil.

I've Got a few spare green Label g60 Bosch coils, but i'm Here and Your there so god knows when the thing would show up when posted..

Did you try fitting a spare bit of wire from the pos. off the batt. Directly to the coil? Ignition lights should light up regardless of the switch position, your bypassing it entirely.

Do that and see if you get a spark out of the coil king lead and off the plug leads.

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Power from the coil king lead and inside dizzy cap, now there is no spark at the plugs when I'm turning it over. So the power isn't transferring from the dizzy to any of the leads. More ideas welcome .

 

 

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Have you checked that the small carbon brush is present inside the dist. Cap? Sometimes they can fall out.

Not a lot left to check now other than the rotor arm you renewed.

Also a possible buggered Hall sensor.

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Ok, let me know. Weird one this..

 

Just to check this coil is doing its job (the new one) what kind of voltage should I be getting from the output?

 

 

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12v.

Connect a 12v Lamp across both +15 and the other side, with the ignition switched on and see if there's current in and out of the coil.

Did the Hall sensor turn out ok?

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12v.

Connect a 12v Lamp across both +15 and the other side, with the ignition switched on and see if there's current in and out of the coil.

Did the Hall sensor turn out ok?

 

Not had chance to check that yet, yeah that's what I'm getting, 12volts.. I'll check the hall sensor later. Bloody thing.

 

 

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If it's the Hall sender, and seeing as your in wales, go and nick the distributer of Dazz_g60's yellow corrado..!! can't be hard to find a yellow corrado in Wales!

That way i'll sell him another one!

Just kidding, if it is that and you can't find a spare (8-16v they are both the same components) let me know.

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Update.......

Replaced the dizzy, boom problem solved. Until a pipe split on the ISV.

 

Replaced the pipe with the correct one. Thought maybe now it would be spot on....?

 

Nope.

 

Now it's missing terribly. Genuinely at the end of my tether even looked at buying another car.

 

Replaced plugs, still doing it.

 

Now one of the plugs is soaked in oil, engine was rebuilt 30,000mile ago. Surely it's not rings....

 

Any ideas guys? I've got leads here so that my next thing to do.

 

 

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Doesn't sound good mate..

Are you sure it's oil on the plug and not unburnt fuel? Does the engine smoke at idle? Or under full throttle?

Can you not do a compression test or, better still, a leak down test of the cylinders?

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If it is fuel on the plug it could still be a faulty lead.

I had this with mine when it first went back on the road after 7 years.

Also if still over fueling i turned the co pot up to 650 ohms instead of 500 and now its heaps better.

It does not hurt to experiment a little as long as you mark your settings first with a dot of paint on the dizzy base.

 

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