MOT - Rear Suspension

[swfblade 0]

Its MOT time, and im 99.9% sure she'll fail on rears. one side the bumpstop is split and that side is very spongy, and the other side is oily. The car feels like its "skipping" out sometimes round corners. I assume this means that its new shox needed.

 

So My main Q is this;

What exactly do i need (parts wise) in order to change em? I know i'll need new shox, and at least 1 bump stop, but are there other bits i need? EG, are there any non-reusable screws or bits that i dont know about, or someone mentioned about top mounts should be replaced at same time, or anything else that a novice like me wouldnt know about?

 

Cheers in advance guys 8)

[olly elworthy 0]

2 shocks (sachs advantage) 2 bumpstops, that should have you sorted for the rears, the bolts in the bottom of the shock to the axle can be troublesome and shear sometimes,, apart from that its easy,, give the aforementioned bolts a good soaking with penetrating oil a couple days before you embark on changing the shocks and it should be sweet!

[swfblade 0]

cheers m8.

 

Looking at ETKA there are 2 bumpstops for C's. One is 146mm and the other 140mm. Which one do i need :? I ssume its the 146mm as thats for the KR?

[swfblade 0]

well she failed :cry:

1. Rear Fog light not working (actually its the fronts that gone, but its blowing the fuse)[/*:m:246f6]
2. O/S Outer CV Boot Split[/*:m:246f6]
3. N/S/R Shock Leaking[/*:m:246f6]
4. No reading N/S Handbrake[/*:m:246f6]
5. N/S Door wont open from outside[/*:m:246f6]

Nothing really unexpected, cept perhaps the CV Boot. Oh well......And bugger me, aint MOT's expensive now!!!???!!

[vr6corrado 0]

Is it a good idea to change anything else whilst changing the rear shocks? I mean to save on labour later... I'm sure mine will fail the MOT too because of one of the rear shocks and bumpstops. Oh and I'm also going to change the rear discs.

[vr6storm 0]

Oh and I'm also going to change the rear discs.

 

 

also be as well changing the rear bearings and depending on how crusty they are the rear ABS rotors(approx £8+vat ea)

[dinkus 10]

Oh and I'm also going to change the rear discs.

 

also be as well changing the rear bearings and depending on how crusty they are the rear ABS rotors(approx £8+vat ea)

 

Yup, definitely worth while. The bearings are pressed into the disks, so if you're changing the disks, it's a whole lot easier to do the bearings too. New ones press in pretty easily too.

 

You're also likely to have rusted ABS cages and/or bend them when you take them off, so again worth doing.

 

If you're feeling flush, you could also go for some Mk4 calipers too, then you'll get a fully functioning handbrake. You'll also need the Mk2->Mk4 conversion hoses. The whole lot is about £200 from C&R.

[Pau1 0]

Yup, definitely worth while. The bearings are pressed into the disks, so if you're changing the disks, it's a whole lot easier to do the bearings too. New ones press in pretty easily too.

 

You're also likely to have rusted ABS cages and/or bend them when you take them off, so again worth doing.

 

If you're feeling flush, you could also go for some Mk4 calipers too, then you'll get a fully functioning handbrake. You'll also need the Mk2->Mk4 conversion hoses. The whole lot is about £200 from C&R.

 

Totally agree with dinkus here. Just fitted my MK4 calipers this weekend and they are great. If you are going to change the

rear disks don't even consider doing them without new bearings. You'll save so much time.

[vr6corrado 0]

Cheers guys, been told by the MOT tester the discs are ok, so just going to change the rear shocks and bumpstops. Should I change the springs too?

[dinkus 10]

Should I change the springs too?

 

I would if you're in there anyway, but that's just me.

 

I wouldn't go for standard springs tho - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... &start=160

[vr6corrado 0]

dinkus, just seen your thread!!!! But what springs should I use considering the front end is still standard? Has yours sunk yet?

[dinkus 10]

Yeah it's pretty high. It doesn't look quite as tractor like now, but I don't think it's gonna settle any lower - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 6&start=40

 

I would say if you can afford it, go for new shocks and springs all round. If the rears are dead then the fronts won't be far behind. But as I say, that's just my phiosophy. The other option is to just leave the springs for now, then do the whole car when you can afford it. The problem with that is when it comes time to lower it, you'll be chucking out perfectly good rear shocks (or in my case shocks and springs :roll: )

[vr6corrado 0]

Hmm, good point but if I want it lower then I'm going to have to fit non-standard shocks? I'm thinking Koni/HR set up from the keyhaywire school of thought.

[dinkus 10]

Hmm, good point but if I want it lower then I'm going to have to fit non-standard shocks? I'm thinking Koni/HR set up from the keyhaywire school of thought.

 

Yeah, if you put lowered springs on with the standard shocks the shocks will bottom out and you will get a horrid ride. The Koni/HR setup definitely works very well on Kev's beastie. The FK Konigsports (sp?) are supposed to be pretty good too, but I don't know how they compare.

[vr6corrado 0]

The main problem I have with lowering is the sheer number of speed humps round here. I think I'm going to look into it though. Thanks again dinkus,

[dinkus 10]

The main problem I have with lowering is the sheer number of speed humps round here. I think I'm going to look into it though. Thanks again dinkus,

 

Well in fairness, a lowered setup probably won't be any lower than your current 10yr old springs are now because they have sagged so much. It will be a little firmer, but nothing teeth rattlingly so if you get either of the 2 setups mentioned.

[vr6corrado 0]

Right, now you have really got me thinking, lowering is very tempting. I was always going to keep the standard ride height even though it's a bit pants. How about this Koni kit?

http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?c=KON ... 261727&a=i

[dinkus 10]

People were talking about these very items last week - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 98&start=0

[vr6corrado 0]

I'm taking a look now, sounds like it's pretty good mod and I could always upgrade to HR springs later, approximately how much would fitting be at a decent garage?

[dinkus 10]

I'm taking a look now, sounds like it's pretty good mod and I could always upgrade to HR springs later, approximately how much would fitting be at a decent garage?

 

Do it yourself, it's not that hard and even if you need to buy all the tools, it'll still be cheaper than paying labour.

 

If you do take it to get it done somewhere that knows what they're doing, I guess it should be about 3-4hrs? It's also going to be highly dependent on how badly the bolts are ceased though, because 10yr old bolts don't shift very easily.

 

I can highly recommend a can of PlusGas (penetrating oil on steroids)

[vr6corrado 0]

Unfortunately I'm pretty useless with spanners and just don't have enough time :(

I was thinking of getting it done at a garage in the recommended garages section and also a thread on it here regarding their suspension know-how:

 

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=&t=5774

 

Ps: is that PlusGas stuff available from Halfords type places?

[dinkus 10]

Ah they sound like they know their stuff and should be able to sort you out.

 

If you want to see what kind of work is involved with doing the fronts then I've done a fairly complete how-to - http://the-corrado.net/how-to/index.php ... tails&id=1

 

And yeah PlusGas is available from most car parts type shops, I'm not sure if Halfords sell it tho. Even if you're taking the car in to get the work done, it's worth drenching all the bolts in the stuff the night before you go. Then you won't have to pay for labour time when they're swearing at ceased/sheared bolts ;)

[Tattie 0]

If you're replacing the rear shocks as well as the bump stops don't forget the 'strut top mountings'. On the rears they are an upper and lower rubber and cost around a tenner from GSF

 

Then you have a whole new rear suspension. Or alternatively get the lowering kit from GSF, shock and springs front and rear. Then just buy all new bumpstops and strut top mountings for a complete new suspension. Not sure on the price of the lowering kit but compare it with the koni kit from Larkspeed and then take your pick depending on budget.

 

I got the lowering kit, all the mountings/bumpstops, rear axle bushes, rear brake bias valve for just over 300 at GTI International from the GSF stand. And that included postage as they didn't have the kit there!!

[vr6corrado 0]

Right then, so I need shocks, springs, bumpstops and strut top mountings. Thanks again dinkus and Tattie, I will take a look and definitely give them a soak the night before.

 

Still deciding on suspension options especially because I'm not sure how long I plan to keep my C.

[dinkus 10]

Oh Supercharged just said this on another thread - If you lower it, you'll need to remove the appropriate amount from the bump stops to stop it bottoming out (probably ~30mm)