nia573

Ok thanks. Ill be getting the parts from AVS - do the seals come with the thermostat & housing or are they the ones that are listed seperately for 75p? Also do you know off hand the bolt sizes as AVS dont sell these & I should be able to get some from work if theyre a common size

Noticed the past week or so that the temp needle on my Mk2 Gti 8v (with Corrado 2l 2e engine & clocks) is staying at the low end of the scale even on longish journeys. Initially I thought it was because of the colder than normal temps here in Snowdonia, but the needle barely gets to the 70 degree mark, & will just go over when idling at the side of the house The interior heater is pumping out hot air as normal & I felt the bottom rad hos & that gets hot after a few minutes. I changed the black temp sender at the front of the engine (just the one 4 pin one on 2e engine that does ecu temp & clocks) but its just the same Car was fine up till recently & the rad fan kicked in normally too on hot days (havent had it up to a hot temp for me to hear it recently). Replaced the earth strap from engine to bulkhead/coil in the summer Could it be the thermostat thats stuck? Im thinking if it was stuck closed the bottom hose would stay cold (& so the car may overheat?) but if it was stuck open (like Im assuming) would there any problem with it been like this (other than the car taking longer to warm up on cold mornings perhaps (cos the water's flowing through the complete system when cold)?? Perhaps its the gauge itself but I was wondering if a faulty thermostat could cause under-reading of the gauge itself? Car has power steering & from a quick search on here it seems that it would be best to get a new plastic housing for the thermostat too - are they the same for all big block Mk2's - are these ok or is the dealer a better bet: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_in...roducts_id=553 Think Ill get thermostat, housing, coolant etc from AVS too - anything else? ( Is it a PITA to change or fairly straightforward (on my back on the driveway)? Cheers!

mattnorgrove - On my Mk2 Golf the rear window wasnt demisting & I noticed that the wires were broken as they pass through from the body to the tailgate (in the rubber convoluted tube). Once I crimped them back together everything worked fine! I too was getting 12v at the terminals but it was the earth wire that was broken - I think it should be 12v at one side & earth at the other Not sure if the Corrados suffer from this but it may be worth a try

Was it Pentraeth VW that set your up Ben? Need to get my geometry set up soon. I have taken it to Bangor Tyre Service in the past as they have the laser alignment & can set up the camber too Never heard of RSE Motorsport before - are they on the industrial estate?

Interesting!! After reading the above about the hall sender, I just disconnected the connector at the side of the dizzy, gave it a quick spray with contact cleaner & reconnected it & the revcounters been perfect since & not fluttered at all! I'll keep an eye on it & I'll try the other ideas if it happens again! Thanks for the comments Mike

Knew I had the dimensions somewhere! The wheelbase on my drawing is 2470mm (centre of wheel to centre of wheel) & the front track is 1435mm & the rear is 1428mm I'm not sure whether these measurements are for 16v/G60 or VR6 but you can use them as a guide Drop me a PM & I'll email the drawing over if you want (having trouble posting it up for some reason) Mike

http://www.the-blueprints.com/index.php?blueprints/cars/vw/3456/view/ http://www.the-blueprints.com/index.php?blueprints/cars/vw/6451/view/ Any use??? First thought of this site http://www.suurland.com/blueprints.php?catagory=1&order=name but typically the corrado isn't listed! Mike

I had some erratic wiper problems in teh past on my golf & it was caused by a faulty wiper stalk. They used to come on without touching the stalk at all & eventually refused to work. Replacing them with a set of Mk3 ones cured it

Wonder if anyone can shed any light on this.[:^(] Car is a '91 8v Gti fitted with a 2e 2 litre engine with full loom & ecu, and the matching Corrado clocks (with digital odometer) The car runs fine with no problems, but today when in traffic the rev counter needle started swinging up & down & all over the place. The engine revs stayed as they should though. Then while carrying on the journey the needle died altogether. If I stop then start again the needle will hover around the 1k mark then die again, giving the occasional blip of life. Noticed this evening that when I switched the light switch on the dash, as well as having the blower on full & switching the Heated Rear Window switch the rev counter needle blips into life again for a short while - which could perhaps be an earth issue?? Where should I look next? I plan to have a look at the earth connections by the fusebox tomorrow, & perhaps remove & clean the battery terminals as well as the earth from coil to the rear of the head. Perhaps remove, clean & check the ecu connection too? Where does the rev counter get the signal from, the connection that plugs into the coil itself (black multiplug)? Does this run to the ecu or into the back of the fuseboard? It could possibly be a dodgy cluster too I suppose but I thought I'd check the possibles before replacing that This small problem just appeared out of the blue today, but it did occur about 18 months or more ago, but dissapeared just as suddenly after a few weeks, & has been perfect until today. Just to confirm the engine runs & idles perfectly so the engine revs don't match the swinging needle on the revcounter Cheers Mikey

Nice car, bet that shifts!!!

Aye I've tried adjusting it to no avail. Don't think there's anything missing as this is all the parts thats listed in the instructions (the ones on sale in Halfords look the same too) The black knobs/yellow are the hinge points, & I can only set these at 2 heights like in the first 2 photos The yellow plastic parts are 2 disks that have interlocking teeth so that they lock secure at the correct angle If I increase the angle between the 2 frames to have a contact point at the top of the rear screen the arms automatically point down cos there's no further adjustability To get the arms pointing slightly up the angle has to decrease but I end up with the lower frame having to come up & sit at the no plate recess like in pic 3 It does look like its too small, as though the lower frame needs to be 6" or so longer I wonder if its worth getting a pipe bender out & giving the lower frame a tweek? Cheers for the replies jonnyboyo! BTW can you remember the make of the rack that you had? Only paid a fiver for this so it might be worth just splashing out for a new one

Just taken some quick wobbly pics This is how it sits at the highest hole setting & resting on bumper Its resting just below the wiper spindle on the body but I don't know how secure it would be? (Should be ok when strapped secure, but I don't want to risk my £400 bike without confirming 1st! This is at the lowest hole setting & on bumper (bike arms are pointing down so no good) This is an alternative I thought of resting on glass & at the bottom of the no plate recess Lower frame could slip off perhaps (not much of a lip to rest on)

Having just bought a Mountain Bike I now need a rear mounted cycle rack to fit my Mk2 to carry 2 bikes (mine & a mates) Got hold of a basic Halfords 2 cycle one from a car boot yesterday but can’t seem to get it to sit correctly or safely (if the part of the rack sits on the bumper as it should, the cycle mounting arms point downwards which obviously isn’t safe). Only cost a fiver though so no big deal Anyone got any recommendations on a rear 2 cycle rack or pics of one fitted to a Mk2?

Aye, realised it was you just as you were passing, gave you a wave ! Think you were outside the Bridge Inn the following day too - parked up right outside (where the poseurs park 8) ). Seen the old G60 around too, sounding good!

Mine had a bit of a long pedal travel when I had my front G60s fitted with the Mk3 rears (new pads & old disks, new 22mm master cylinder & new flexi hoses) Jim at Awesome put it down to the rear pads bedding into the old disks & it did get better (plus I suppose I got used to it). Stopped the car ok mind, especially from motorway speeds, just that it felt a bit longer at lower speeds I did drive along the dual carriageway & held the handbrake slightly in places just for a few secs. Don't know if it helped or not :oops:

Nice car! I passed it (when it was parked up - obviously :) ) last Saturday I think it was? Either in Llangefni or M. Bridge?? Stunning colour caught my eye! Sorry to hear about your dad Mike (Capri Green Golf)

There was a Corrado in Harris Salvage (behind tescos) at the end of the summer. A red 16v (H reg I think). The battery tray might be salvageable in it?? (if it's still there that is :) ) BTW when i phoned up the bloke didn't know what a Corrado was, so it might be best to go there for a look Mike

Thats what I did, stuck the 'pointy' red football attchment into the end of the cut off hose & pumped away. I also put a bit of wood in the caliper to protect the end of the piston, just in case. Gave the pistons a gentle scrub with a scotchbrite pad (like the green kitchen scourers), coated the seals in brake fluid for lubrication & used a bench vise in work to press them back in (took a bit of force to get them back in)

Hi Ben! I'll gladly give you a hand if you want. The garage in Penmon (where my tools are) is in a bit of a mess at the mo' though, so it may be a case of waiting a bit when the weathers a bit warmer/drier? If your desperate perhaps we can sort a weekend sometime Mike

Thanks for the responses. I'm pretty sure the ARB is on the right way round but will double check to be sure! I'll also double check the rack (is it 2 nuts on 2 splined bolts on the drivers side?) & subframe mounting bolts Look forward to your findings Mystic Raddo - it's so frustrating trying to trace knocks like these. (mustn't get on the bad side of the g/f either!)

Had a knocking sound a while back in my Mk2 as detailed here http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106597 Since then I've changed the front suspension top mounts to VR6 ones (with seperate bearing), checked the front struts & they're A1 (Konis), replaced the bumpstops & tie rod ends 'cos the bushes were split, had the alignment & camber done. I've replaced the front & rear engine mounts too, but haven't done the gearbox one The lower balljoints are ok & the wishbones (fitted with powerflex bushes) aren't bent or anything. I've checked all the bolts & fixings for tightness & all seems fine. I've checked the rack rubber mount too & thats good (didn't check the other rack bolts though??). Downpipe isn't knocking either Trouble is I'm still having a knocking/clonking noise in 1st & 2nd, sometimes when pulling off or driving over surfaces that aren't flat. The car drives fine on normal A roads that have a good surface, but along crap city roads with potholes & manholes etc , it seems if one wheel hits an uneven patch it will inevitably clonk. If I drive over a speedbump, slowly & straight on, it's ok. Better than before because of the VR6 top mounts, so I think they're doing they're job The noise seems to come from the drivers side footwell area & can be felt through the pedals. I have an Eibach ARB fitted & the end links & bushes are ok, but noticed the other day that there was a slight gap on one side of the central bushes (that are sandwiched by the subframe) - the bush didn't fit snug around the bar & there was say a 2 or 3mm gap on the rearward side. I can't remember if the cars steering was to one side or not though, & the car wasn't on a flat road, but should it be like this at the straight ahead position (on flat ground)?? Only other thing I can think of is the Drivers Side Inner CV joint - could this cause knocking etc (what are the symptoms of a knackered inner cv?). There's no clicking sound on full lock like you get with a dodgy outer joint, so I think the outers are ok Anyone else have similar problems? Losing my mind steadily here

ndNoticed today that the tie rod ends on my Mk2 (’91 8v Gti) need replacing ‘cos the bushes are perished & cracked The car has power steering, so are the ends available separately. Or do I have the added complication of having to remove the rack from the car to replace the complete tie rod? Any advice appreciated

It's perfectly normal to have a small gap (little finger sized). If it's large the top mounts or the top mount bearings may need replacing The gap shown may increase slightly if the steering is at full lock

Since they're the yellow sports t/a Konis I think (hope) they'll be ok with the H&R springs

I'm using Koni Top Adjustable struts on the front. Hopefully the extra 5mm will make a difference! Thanks for the info! :) (I was dreading having to go back to using the crappy Mk2 type mounts)