nia573

Ah thanks Yandards, that makes sense! I'll ring the dealers tomorrow Incidentally, do you know if this wider spring disc is as high as the standard Mk2 one, & not shallow like the small diameter 357 412 341A one?(which would explain why the spring isn't compressed slightly when assembled on the strut) & just a thought, there's no way I can use the Mk2 spring disc with the VR6 mounts is there (the top 'dish' of the spring plate needs to sit snugly on the underside of the mount & bearing doesn't it?) Thanks again Mike

Sorry it's not Corrado related :oops: Followed this thread in the past http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88535&highlight=top+mount & today set about fitting the VR6 top mounts to my '91 Mk2. I'd collected all the parts required (top mounts, bearings, top plates, top spring plates, bumpstops & the threaded bush) so thought it would be a straight on & off job Problem arose when I re-assembled everything together off the car, the top spring plate 357 412 341A (number 26) seemed about 20mm smaller diameter than the old Mk2 one I removed. When assembled the OD of the plate was barely larger than the internal diameter of the top of the spring & it didn't seem secure at all. (H&R -40mm springs are fitted). I tried loose fitting the plate onto another set of old springs I have & the top coil was almost larger than the od of the plate there too?? I had visions of hitting a pothole & dislodging the plate & causing some damage. Also since this plate isn't as deep/high as the Mk2 original, I didn't need the compressors at all on reassembly, & even when fully tightened the spring was loose on the strut I had to re-fit the old mounts 'cos I need the car this week, but somethings wrong, so can someone give me advice before I go & buy G60 top mounts. Cheers

(Car is a '91 Mk2 Gti with H&R springs & Konis) Today while stationary & idleing, if I move the steering about 2" from centre to the left & right, the wheels move as they should, so there's not much free play at all, but I can feel a slight knock from the pedal area inside the car, & while dad did this when I had my hand on the tyre, I could feel the wheel jerk slightly backwards by about 5mm ish (not much but it wasn't as noticeable on the passenger side) . Car has power steering by the way I've replaced the front & rear engine mounts not so long ago (August) so they should be ok. My front wheel bearings are suspect too because they drone slightly at speed - could this be a cause I wonder? I've a feeling that the top mounts are gone & they'll be replaced with VR6 ones this week. If these are shot would that cause the knock, or could a dodgy cv joint cause this too? (Noticed yesterday that the drivers side outer cv joint boot on my Mk2 had split so I'll have to sort that out this week.) The outer joint isn't clicking on full lock though so I think it's ok Sometimes I can feel the same sort of slight clonk when pulling off in 1st. I've checked the rear (vertical) fixing bolts for the wishbone & they are tight (Powerflex bushes fitted too). The inner cv joints have been mentioned to me, but I've never had a failed inner before - what are the symptoms if they're on the way out? The boots aren't split at all & the balljoints don't seem to have any play in them Anything else that could be checked? Just need some guidance on what to ask at the garage tomorrow

Haven't the plastic impellers been superceeded with the metal versions, since there were lots of cases of them shearing off?? A call to the dealers or someone else might confirm tho'

No problem! Seen this on the Edition 38 forum http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63457 I'm not sure if the Toledos have an 020 rod change box, but it might be worth giving him a bell? Alternatively I have a 020 Gti box (AUG code), but I don't know if the ratios will suit - pm me if you wish

I think it will be an 020 box. These might help for the specific code for the ratios: http://www.brokevw.com/020ratios.html http://www.scirocco.org/gears/

Perhaps slip on a section of rubber hose split down the middle onto both looms as an added precaution too?

Cheers for that Paul, I'll try & get them ordered & fitted next week (BTW You got the paperwork sorted for me yet? :wink: ) Mike

I need to get the front wheel bearings done on my mk2 (with G60 280mm brakes) I’ve heard some conflicting reports about early failiure on GSF/ECP bearings so I rang up the dealers & they are £26.27 + Vat each side! I can get Febi/Bilstein from VW Parts for £12.49 each (+vat) http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1022 – is the quality ok & better than GSF? Alternatively I could get some SKF or FAG ones through work, but is the 72mmOD x 40mm ID x 37mm thick the correct size to get?? Anyone got any of the SKF part numbers so I can confirm? The vw & vw spares kit comes with new circlips & nuts, but if I order the bearing alone through work I’ll have to be using the old circlips & nuts that are on the car. Is this advisable or should I buy the complete kit?

I need to replace the crappy GSF standard front suspension topmounts on my Mk2 since they’ve seen better days. Some say to replace them with G60 items like these: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=410 Others have replaced them with the VR6 type, with the separate bearing Which is the best option for everyday use? If I do use the VR6 type, are these a straight swap for the standard items? Do they raise the front by 10mm as some say? I’ll replace the bumpstops & the dustcovers for the shocks too while I’m at it – is there a better item to use for these too like Passat or later Golf items?? I believe that C&R sell these front items as an upgrade kit for the Mk2 but it costs close to £100! I’m sure it can be sourced cheaper than this

On a mk2 Golf Gti with power steering,is it possible to replace the steering rack bushes with the rack in situ, without having to drop the subframe? Is there enough room to manuover the brackets off? Any tips for replacing? I'm thinking of using standard VAG parts, not the poly ones

What are the symptoms of a failing inner cv joint? I’ve had to replace the outers before as they are quite easy to diagnose with the clicking sound they make under load, but I haven’t had to change an inner one before. I’ve got a faint rumbling sound under load & when freewheeling that to me either sounds like a failing bearing or inner cv If they need replacing, once the inner splined bolts have been removed, will I be able to drop the driveshaft down to get the inner cv off (do they just knock out or is there a circlip holding it onto the shaft??), or will I need to undo the outside driveshaft nut & balljoint to allow a bit of room?

Ah steering rack bushes - didn't think of that! Are these a pain to change (on a power steering rack)? Do I need to drop the subframe, or could I put my new flex head ratchet spanners from Halfords to good use? :D Top mounts I've done before so I'm pretty confident there but havent done the rack before Cheers Mike

Could you post a pic of the subframes you've just had please? I'm interested in how they compare to the standard aftermarket recaro subframes for a Golf

Not specifically Corrado related, but I wonder if anyone can give some advice on the following problem on Mk2Golf ( - It does have a Corrado engine fitted tho' :lol: ) Got a '91 8v Mk2 fitted with Eibach arb's, Koni front shocks (fitted a good few years ago) & the front wishbones have powerflex bushes (about 18 months old). I had G60 front brakes fitted about 3 years ago with new 19mm balljoints, but used the existing bearings. The car has power steering BTW Recently I noticed a slight knocking noise when taking off in 1st & sometimes in 2nd, & sometimes when driving slowly in carparks etc when steering from lock to lock, or if I drive over an uneven surface. Just a slight knock that seemed to come from behind the pedalbox on the drivers side. I've replaced the front & the rear engine mounts & the this seemed to cure it. Past couple of days though the noise seems to have re appeared. The Eibach bushes are all good & there doesn't seem to be any play in the lower balljoints. I checked the main subframe to body mounting bolts too, just in case they'd worked loose somehow. I nipped up the bolts on the front engine cradle (next to the front bumper mounting point) since they were not entirely tight, but the noise remains Could it be the front suspension top mounts?. These were GSF ones that were fitted with the Konis, but I'm sure since it's been lowered 40mm they could well be shot. What are the normal symptoms of a failed top mount? I'm thinking that any play in the top mount would be accentuated by the larger diameter front anti roll bar, hence causing the noise & sloppiness to be felt through where the centre arb bush sitsbetween the subframe & body (ie drivers footwell area)?? Does this seem plausible? Anything else it could be - knackered front bearing, dodgy inner cv etc ?? Cheers for any pointers

Nice car & the shots down in Penmon look familiar :wink: Mike (Capri green Mk2)