kevinbowe2000

I have found myself in a bit of a predicament. I have started a new job that is taking over all my time (except for right now obviously) and the cars MOT is due on Jan 16th. It will not pass right now, it needs a bit of work including installation of US style side indicators (not too difficult a job). The problem is that I have no time to do any of the work and to pay for a garage to do it all would be a fortune (and cheating). I have found a place near my home that can store her for £45 a month, same as my current insurance payment, but am unsure when I will get the time to work on her. Might be a good couple of months, potentially a year or more. It has been my daily for the past 2 years, and love her to bits. I cannot decide if I should sell her to someone that has the time and enjoy the car, or store it until I have the time. Realistically, if I dont have to pay for her storage (sell her), I could save and buy one in better condition further down the line. Any thoughts/suggestions would be most appreciated. Anyone been in my situation before and regretted their decision?

That would be great. I'll bring more money with me than last time, cause I know I'll end up buying loads of parts from you again :) You still on the same mobile number? I'll give you text to arrange time that you might be free. I'm not around this weekend (Rugby World Cup), but I'll give you a text next week to see when you'd have time.

Sounds exactly like my issue. Going to put in new relays and put a new indicator stalk on order. Most likely by the sounds of things, it'll be the indicator stalk. But no harm changing the relays too. Thanks again guys. Think this is one of the only forums where you can get amazing help and super quickly. I'll let you all know how I get on once relays and/or stalk are installed. Jim - Would you happen to have a link to the stalk you installed? Has it lasted okay or would you recommend a different one? I had a quick look around for a how to on installing a stalk, but cant find anything. Is it just as easy as popping off the steering wheel and pulling off the stalk?

Hi Jim, What exactly was wrong with your stalk? Was it an easy fix? Was your weird light issue to do with low beam only? My high beams are working perfectly. Semi tempted to do some temp rewiring or remove bulbs and drive around with high beams on until i get to the bottom of this. Having a 21 yr old daily can be difficult, but definitely worth it :) Thanks for all the help so far guys. Especially for the pics. 100% sure now that my low beams are not working. High beams and side/parking are working perfectly. Lovely engine bay Tigerfish. Need to polish my manifold.

That would be amazing Goldfinger. Wasn't expecting anything quickly. She is my daily but have just been making sure that I dont have to drive anywhere after 6pm. Taxi drivers are loving it :) tried to google it also, but cant find anything. Had the multimeter on the back of the switch but there is so many wires that I got lost fairly quick. Still a newbie :) Thanks for the info Dox. I like to understand the reason for things

Long story short, I found a broken connection to the drivers side headlight which was causing the issue of the passenger working, but it not. I am wondering if anyone might be able to do me a big favor and take a photo of their lights when in parking, low beam and high beam. I now have a feeling that only my parking lights are working and not low beams. I tested with the uprated loom v the original loom and both seem to have the same issue. Also the lighting level didn't seem to change. It is all very strange. I am wondering if I have an issue with the headlight switch cabling. Anyone know what wires in the headlight switch should have voltage when the headlights are in low beam? JMC - I believe I have disconnected the dim dip. The two yellow wires coming out of the coil to the back of the passenger headlight? Is that correct? Many thanks guys for helping me out. Most appreciated. Especially for lighting issues when winter is coming.

Thanks goldfinger for getting back to me so quickly. The loom I bought is this one: http://www.rayneautomotive.co.uk/corrado/25-uk-spec-corrado-uprated-headlight-loom-.html Looks like 2 relays to me and two fuses in the loom. What do you think? Guess its not the fuses in the loom as high beam works. But might change them anyway as cost nothing. Would you think it is still the relay if it was the 2 relay version?

Got into the car the other day to find my headlights aren't working properly. I was 25 min drive from home and it was 8pm (pitch black). Was not a good drive home. I put in an uprated loom along time ago and also good halford bulbs as recommended on here some place. Everything works fine with high beam (all the light bulbs). All lights on and blinding everyone. With low beams, only the passenger low beam turns on and rather faint (the bulb that is closest to the passenger wing. Guess its dim because I never disabled dim dip). I changed my headlight switch for a known good one, still same issue. Checked all fuses. All seem fine. Anyone have any pointers on what to check? Thanks in advance, Kev

Many thanks borarob. A nice little weekend project now :) wait til you see the price of a4 cup holders sky rocket :)

Looks great. Any chance of putting up a how to guide. Something that I have been wanting to do for a while.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Just got word that the US indicators weren't installed prior to painting. Had planned to do them myself but didnt get time. Asked them to do it and they said no problem. Bit annoyed with them now as have no idea how to install them without wrecking the paint job on the bumper. I was hoping that if I put masking tape all over the area that I will be cutting into, that it hopefully wont wreck the paint work to badly. Or am i just kidding myself? Going to use a dremel on full speed to try cut though it as quick and cleanly as possible. Any have any suggestions?

Thanks for all the advice guys. Think ill be doing most the stripping myself to keep the cost down. And will be putting them back on too so hopefully will get it right with no leakages. Though I think my sunroof rainguard is nearly perished. Not looking forward to replacing that though as I just go the moonroof in after a lot of hassle.

After picking up a replacement bonnet and drivers door the other weekend (thanks easypops and goldie), the car is just about ready to go in for its respray. Just wondering if anyone has any advice/recommendations? Things they wish they had done prior to a respray etc.? Things I am hoping to do so far are: Replace all the bonnet foam (got the stuff from the group buy) Fill in the rear wiper hole in the boot lid (prefer it without the wiper and think the grommet it have in at the moment looks terrible) Hopefully put on US side markers (use instead of side indicators) and fill in the side indicator holes I was contemplating flaring the arches a small bit, just so they meet the bumper but still unsure about it.

All pmed. Thanks

Looking for blackberry but going in for a full respray in a couple weeks so colour match not massively important.

Wondering if anyone is breaking a late model nearish to Glasgow (2hr drive). Looking for late bonnet and drivers door. Maybe a few other small bits and bobs too.

Also get this vag error sometimes but only after I go for an italian tune up. 00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (G68 ) 27-00 - Implausible Signal Not sure if that would have anything to do with the strange voltage?

Thanks for the reply. Wasnt planning on ripping up the loom just yet. Was going to just put in a temporary length of wire to see if it got the correct voltage but amnt really sure where the red wire (pin 3) ends. I believe it goes into the ECU but have never done any work on the ECU yet etc. and not really sure what I'd need to be doing. I have done a number of things to try get to the bottom of this cold start: cleaned ISV (tried two different ones), put on a known working black box behind ISV (thanks easypops), totally removed the black box, checked for air leaks, replaced blue temp sensor, new MAF, ecu reset and basic settings a few times, replaced coilpack (was cracked), new battery (needed it but dont think it would have any effect on the cold start really), replaced intake air temp sensor (had come up on vagcom). Have vagcomed it a couple of times and these keep coming up: 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39) 03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-00 - Control Limit Not Reached Also did a log of when the engine was nice an warm (attached).

I have been chasing a cold start issue for a while now and think I might have found the issue but looking for some advice. I used this: http://s2central.net/ds_G70.html to test the MAF and wiring. While testing the MAF (Part 1), I found that all was fine except for pin 3. It says that it should be like this: Connecting the harness plug back onto the MAF, again teasing back the insulation hood enough to get the DMM probes onto the pins entering the connector, measure DC VOLTAGE across pins #1 (one) and #3 (three). With the ignition ON and engine OFF, a value of 1.2 - 1.5 V should be measured With the engine idling a value of approx 2.5 - 2.6 V should be seen With brief blip of the throttle, the reading should be seen in the range of 3 - 5 V. However, the voltage on mine is 0.02V constantly, no matter what the rpm etc. With the connector remove, the resistance between pin 1 and 3 on the MAF (Ra) is 3 ohms as per the post, and voltage thru connector is 0.02V. With the connector replaced, the resistance between 1 and 3 is 13 ohms an voltage is the same at 0.02V. It is a relatively new MAF (but not bosch), so dont think that the MAF is the issue. Was thinking of replacing th wire for pin 3 back to the ECU (if that is possible and where it goes), or would it be more likely to be a different issue? Any thoughts/ideas would be most appreciated.

That would be great martin thanks. Its a 6 pin for a 1994 vr6. Potentially could be the lambda but still need to multimeter test that.

I still have not got to the bottom if this issue. I removed the plastic silencer at the back if the isv as I thought if might have a leak. Checked everywhere for any leaks. Changed the blue temperature sensor. Done a full ecu reset. Issue has gotten even worse. I read on a different forum that if you disconnect the tps sensor, the engine should still run if your maf is okay. If your engine cuts out, then you know you have an issue with your maf, and visa versa. Anyone know if this is true as my engine cuts out if I disconnect the tps. Have occasionally got a maf grounding vag error and also a lambda vag error, 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 11-00 - Control Limit Not Reached. Did a multimeter test on the maf and it seems okay. Not 100% with the values but close enough. I did install a BMC CDA so might remove this first before going any further as I have been told it can cause issues. All in all, I want to make sure that all this is my maf still, and as the unit is new, I think it is the cables, so will rewire. Any thoughts/ideas would be most appreciated. Thanks

I did the no more nails strips that glosterox suggested. Works great. Not moved since

Yeah so the adhesive is terrible. Both mirrors have slipped down to rest of the bottom of the wing mirror surrounding and are falling away from the backings. Any suggestions on good adhesives for this job? Was thinking of hot glue gun but though that it has the potential to muck up the electric movement of the mirrors.

Thanks em for all the work sorting this out. Massively appreciated.

Oh and the blue supposedly reduces glare I believe. No evidence of that yet though. Good Scottish weather up here :)