kevinbowe2000

Anyone know if the cables are meant to have that fur all over them?

Amazing. Thanks guys. Really appreciate it. Lucky it happened on one of the hottest days Glasgow has seen in donkeys.

I got to work today and the sunroof only closed half way. So I remove headliner and sunroof from the car at lunch. Removed totally from car. It looks like one side of the sunroof is popped off the rails but the other isnt, and it is nearly closed and will not move. I did a search but unable to find any way of dismantling the sunroof so i might be able to get it back on its rails and close fully. Dont care right now if it will work or not. Just need to get it fully closed and back on the car (Security and potential rain). Does anyone know of a place that might have a few pics on how to do this, or even just a few instructions. Thanks in advance

Payment sent. Sorry for delay. Thanks again em

Wonder if anyone might be willing to sell me a single speedline centre cap for 15s? Searched everywhere bit can't find any.

Pmed and money sent. Thanks again Steve

I still want one too emma. Thanks for taking it over. No problem with me paying up front.

Had the same problem and was the slave. Got the cheap one from gsf that broke the second I put it on. Advice against it. Found today that pressure was releasing over night so pedal was on the floor in the morning. Was just a loose connection to the slave.

Sorry all. Long story short, my mother throw them all out as they were "just useless bits of plastic". But she kept all the " valuable metal parts". Need to get out of an apartment with no storage and into a house asap before she throws away any more of my "useless" stuff. Sorry again.

I believe that I have 2 or 3 main strips and a couple end caps around some place that I have no intention of using. Prefer the car without them on. If someone is looking for some, pm me and we can discuss. Believe they are originals.

I have been emailing Eurocullen on ebay for the past while about us side markers. They say they are getting the black smoked ones made soon. They have been saying that for a while now though

Thanks dragon. Sorry for not searching forum properly before posting. Out to the car at half time to see if I can remove it before its dark

My spoiler goes up fine on the button but when I press it down, the fuses blows. I put about half a can of lithium grease into it but that hasn't helped. It is harder to put up by hand then down by hand. It nearly falls down by itself somewhat. Very little effort. I put in a 20amp fuse to see if that would bring it down on the button and it does, bit takes a serious amount from the battery. Cabin lights dim etc. Wondering if I need a new motor for it? And if so, is the rear wiper motor the same as the spoiler motor as they look very similar. Removing rear wiper so was thinking of using it instead of more expense. Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance

The corrado MAF can be an expensive part (seen it priced at over £300). Did read something about using a passat or golf or galaxy vr6 MAF, but I wouldn't trust my memory right now. That cleaning thread is worth a good read. Alot of very useful information on it all.

Its the Mass Air Flow sensor. Measures the amount of air going into the engine (if I understand correctly, a newbie myself). This might help for cleaning: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=28621 This is what it looks like and where it is located: http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9564 image in step 3 very easy to remove and clean.

The reason my engine was stalling at roundabouts was due to a broken MAF. Got one on the cheap from the EuroCarParts ebay store. Not 100% sure if your issue with the roundabouts would be the same. It is very easy to clean the MAF with contact cleaner. Got mine from Maplins. Did clean the MAF and ISV a couple of times and was about to clean my throttle body before I found the cheap MAF. Will check my battery connections after work to make sure I put it on correctly and then hopefully find someone that has full VCDS to do a full ecu reset. I really do think that the reason for the bad starting is due to the ECU not knowing all the correct information. Then once I start driving, it learns them all and runs fine. Crossing my fingers naturally. If anyone near Glasgow might be able to help with the full VCDS front, it would be most appreciated.

Did you remove the battery or anything that would wipe you ecu?

Yeah similar but mine normally drops down to about 200rpm then up to 1500 and back down until it stalls. Keeps doing this until I drive her for about a min. Then she's perfect. Still can't figure it out. Really hoping its just an ecu reset thing.

I fitted a new maf, to fix the issue of stalling when braking at roundabouts etc. That problems is now solved but every time I turn on the ignition now its hard to start when cold, then the revs keep dropping, jumping up and back down again. Stalls most times unless I hold revs at about 750. Once I'm driving for a couple mins, everything is fine. Battery was disconnected so I did half an ecu reset as I only have vcds lite unregistered so couldn't do the basic settings part. Wondering if a full ecu reset would solve this issue or is it likely to be something else? Its an 1994 vr6 btw. Thanks in advance

Any advice on where to get a really good quality clutch master cylinder or an upgrade one if one exists (golf etc)? Not in a rush

Yeah that silver one was shocking. Felt like the whole thing was made of plastic. Need to get another car so I don't have to rush to get parts so I can keep her on the road. Thinking of an old mini, BMW 635 CSI or Morris Minor. But that's totally off topic. Thanks again.

Took it back and no hassle at all. They had a good alloy one in (ordered in for me) so took that one. Fitted and all good but think I'll change the master next week. Thanks for all the help. One item the strick off the ever growing list :)

My slave cylinder went so replaced it straight away as need the car on the road as my daily. I got one out of gsf. Fitted it, bleed it. Went to put the car in gear. Went down but didn't come back up all the way. Pulled it up and pumped again. Same thing. Then the peddle was solid. Won't go down at all. Took off the slave again after releasing pressure and it had broken. Would not compress back. Also a bit of plastic on the had been damaged. I rang gsf and they said they had sold 6 this year and no issues. Made it sound like my fault. Didn't say they would replace, just to come in and they'll have a look. Meant to have a 12 month warranty on it. Going back in tomo to try get an exchange for a better part. Anyone ever done a broken return to gsf before. Sounds like its going to be difficult. Any advice?

I am changing my cigarette lighter into a push start ignition button. Looking for help on what each wire is. What I believe is correct so far is: Constant 12V+ Red Starter Red/Black Ignition Black Ignition 2 Brown/Red Accessory Black/Yellow Are these correct? Also, what is the Grey wire for? Any help would be most appreciated.

I was playing with the engine today, cleaning a few connectors etc to try learn a bit more about how it all works. Came across two strange things though. Can anyone help? (cant figure out why my photos wont upload to the forum so made a pdf and put it here) https://drive.google.com/#folders/0B39eWULYmoXQUGczMTJBaFMxdW8 Thanks for any advice you might be able to offer.