davidwort

No, although late g60s had the facelift bonnet and wings etc. they still have the mk2 based running gear, only the vr has the mk3 gti 'plus' axle

What's the problem? Had a 16v since 1996 so might be able to help :) The old pink passat Haynes manual not now in print (e-bay) covers the 16v engine fairly well.

yep, any year, it's possible very early subframes don't have the 'c' shaped locators for the wishbone rear bushes but I've never seen one without, only on mk2 subframes and then you just need the little expanding sleeve around the wishbone bolt instead if that is the case.

4 cylinder corrados only, golf ones don't have the extended tails bolting under the floorplan, VR6 ones are different too as they have a different rear engine mounting point and wishbones

:scratch:

won't help, if the engine is overcooled it will run rich all the time

no, not really, although it's in theory possible (G60 16v uses digifant on a 16v head and inlet) the gains will be minimal and mapping a problem. You'd be better off either transplanting an entire ABF mk3 16v engine and EFI or going standalone with electronic injectors and custom fuel rail on the 9A 16v.

just the engine block (main lump with crank, rods and pistons) not includig the cylinder head (the 1.8 head can go straight onto a 2L block). sometimes the block or 'base engine' is also called a 'short engine' most aftermarket cams, exhausts, air filters etc. do little or nothing for the 16v engine, I'd always suggest increasing the 1.8 to 2L and then looking at gas-flowing the cylinder head for a little more top end power. have a read of the 16v tuning sections on the club gti forum, everything you need to know on there :)

find a 2L bottom end or a mk3 16v block and head for it, that's about the best bang for the buck and fairly simple to bolt in and run, just need an hour on a rolling road to set it up afterwards.

yep, you remove the track rod end and it goes over the entire rod and grabs onto the inner joint like irwin bolt grippers, but with movable jaws to accomodate different sized inner joints, means access can be just from the wheel arch and no struggling to get a spanner onto the inner joint flats. Saves loads of time and effort apparently, which I can believe as I ended up having to drop the subframe several inches to get onto the old ones with spanners and wrenches on my valver and that was with the car on a garage ramp.

anyone tried one of these before? http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/150753249651?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla [ATTACH=CONFIG]56357[/ATTACH] I've got the chance to borrow one at the weekend and it looks like it turns a nightmare job into a pretty simple one, providing I can get the gator and balance tube on the rack back in place

yep, it's probably just seeping from a water gallery to outside the engine, not from the cooling channels into the cylinders or oil galleries, unusual to go like that but possible if the block or head has corrosion from the coolant, usually caused by infrequent changes of old type blue antifreeze/inhibitor or too week strength of additive.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-17444769?utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

Porn? Most people at work use them as photo frames or calendars. Imo they are best for shopping from the sofa. Def. the next progression from desktop to laptop to netbook but don't expect to be able to do everything apple would like you to believe, e-ink is far better for reading for extended periods or in bright light for example.

I reckon you should have got a new scirocco Jim, instead of the corrado and fiat, providing you could take the stick from Eric :)

no, 16v alternator has a different body/casting and 8v one won't fit to the 16v bracket, you can't change the bracket either as you need clearance under the 16v inlet manifold. If you had a 65amp 16v alternator you can swap the internals of an 8v alternator into the 16v casing, but there's no equavalent larger 90amp 8v alt of the same design.

ball joint separator will save you a lot of hassle, you can wrap the rubber in a damp cloth if you just heat the end of the metal of the threaded TRE cycling heat/cold should really help shift it

I lifted a 1.8 4pot engine by a winch on the garage joists once no trouble, thin modern timber in the building too, the VR with box and ancilliaries is fairly hefty though.

you two above, that's what I was thinking, I wouldn't wan't to spend any time underneath that lump, that's for sure.

things just look a lot more secure when the outer wings are in place, I'm sure nothing will move with the weight of the engine on it, but the feet just look a litlte precarious to me.

I think it tells the control box that the lock has opened or closed fully so the cl pump stops sucking/blowing

Thats running any car chap, and if you get a new car then depreciation will be more like twice that figure. It all comes down to what's important to you, reliability and comfort or driving something a bit different. Imo corrados are not that expensive to run, are relatively simple to work on and pretty tough and reliable if maintained well, plenty of people I know have big bills on some very dull and depressing cars.

Excellent issue, tax disc holder a nice touch :)

spline bit for headbolts?

well, that was a waste of a day, took the steering column out (fixed position type) to replace bottom bearing and steering lock mech as it wasn't working/engaging, it's now an MOT item I think. Bottom bearing was probably fine before, top bearing on new (cheapo pattern) steering lock has more play in the bearing than the original one I took (actually smashed) off and it turns out the lock barrel is the problem with the steering lock not engaging, it's tired and the tumblers stick so it doesn't pop back completely when you remove the key - which is needed to trigger the steering lock, if I get a new barrel I'll have four different keys for the car! Oh well, at least it's back together and driveable, removing the steering wheel spline adapter was a right royal PITA too, got so hacked off with slipping bearing pullers I ended up heating it and whacking the top of the column down with the collar sat in the top of a vice, that shifted it...