davidwort

Yeah, I'll probably head along the a43 through Silverstone to the m40, doesn't make much difference tbh

I see they have invented a new 'rare' 1.8 model too :) nice to see kip's car in there though.

I'm going to order some in to my dad's work and see which seem best if you can wait a bit. They get deliveries from gsf euros and others so I can compare and send back any that aren't up to scratch

That would help to stop the rubber popping up but the rattles are caused by the bearing on mine

I think part of the problem is most of the pattern early type/4cyl top mounts are mk2 pattern parts and not the heavier duty corrado/passat ones, they look the same but don't last 5 minutes, the best solution may be to change the spring top plates, bump stops and dust covers, top caps and nuts and fit VR/late 4cyl/mk3 GTI style top mounts (separate bearing and rubber type) but I'm not sure if you can use the same road springs, need to see the two side by side, or the spring top plates side by side.

I'll be joining at J15, anyone have google lattitude on their phones?, then we can see where each other are :)

If you don't break it someone else will I'm afraid, and probably puts the bits on e-bay for stupid prices. Anything other than a very tidy VR is not really selling for much at all that's for sure, and even some of those aren't fetching much.

Have a look at kipvw's. gallery, I'm sure he had a different kind of powder coating that is more durable. Rear beam and subframe etc

Do you think this shelf strap, speedo surround screw cover, fuse box cover fixings thing happens with other makes and models? :lol:

Yeah, those pulleys do sieze together. Was just checking about the bolt. :) I'm sure there's a vw tool for locking the pulley, changing a clutch I use a metal plate and two bolts to undo the clutch or flywheel, I'd do the same on the crank or use a heavy duty air gun :)

Depends on how much it. was. If you paid say 5 grand for a 5 yr old car from a dealer then it would not be reasonably expected to blow a hg in a few weeks, but under a grand and it's basically sold as seen. It comes down to what is reasonable and that's how the small claims court would see it. too.

Ingenious, but you don't need to remove the crank timing belt pulley to change the belt??? Also, the crank bolts are stretch and should be replaced if removed. I think I'd rather use bolts in a metal strip/plate or you risk damaging the threads in the pulley.

I wouldn't say so, it's a pretty old engine design, not very fine tolerances or anything and if you're burning some then a fully synthetic is going to get pretty expensive, just stick to what you have been using or similar. It probably puffs a little bit of blue smoke on the overrun, get someone to follow you, still nothing to worry about. My old 8v burns a little oil, I've been using ASDA 10-40 semi synthetic, they had it on offer last week for £8 for four litres which is pretty good!

that'll be my 15 years worth of CCGB window stickers :lol:

VW state a litre every thousand miles max as a guide, there's only about 0.5-0.75L on the dipstick so I'd say it's OK, probably just worn valve guides and seals, as long as it passes the MOT on emissions it will be fine, not worth stripping the head down just yet :) are you using 10/40 semi-synthetic?

same goes for FEBI Bilstein though, some of the stuff branded FEBI is abolute cr@p, I've had a new header tank that was unusable the moulding was so bad and top mounts that fell apart, tie rods that rusted after weeks on the car... but then some bits that have served well. as for KYB, the top mounts are definately poor, the dampers I have from them just don't look nearly as good as the VW ones or even the pattern FEBI-Bilstein ones I had for a while (they had a fault too) so I'm going by the price and the look of the construction of the ones I actually have in comparison to other VW and pattern parts I've used, I doubt i'll keep the car long enough to see if they do 125K like the original ones, don't think they will though.

I wasn't fishing :) but that would be very kind of you Jim, I look forward to it sometime!

Wow! that's a bit different to the 500. Should eat up the miles on a long run. No trouble picking up parts for the corrado either :) I've never driven a car with the 2L T, but like you said I've never heard a bad thing about it. Enjoy :)

KYB are pretty cheap and possibly nasty from what I've seen, I have a pair on the back of my golf :lol: , nothing like the OEM dampers (which were still good at 125K), they are a slightly different design too, which just looks less well engineered, my problem turned out to be knocking rear beam bushes which is why I fitted some new dampers as play wasn't evident in the bushes and the dampers were getting on. They were cheap though, about 20 quid each trade and I can get them swapped easily if they show any signs of faults through the trade so for a car that is basically used for shopping runs it's fine for me, rear mk4 dampers are also a ten minute job to swap as the spring is separate. I also fitted the early style top front suspension mounts from KYB, I've had two sets and the bearings in them are rubbish, loads of play and they chatter like hell, I'm swapping for a third and last time if I can get a set that's bearings feel any better out of the box. If you look on carparts4less (basically euro car parts online) you'll see the KYB parts tend to come up as one of the cheap alternatives, fingers crossed that my dampers last but I won't bank on it. I'll contradict myself though by saying the garage I get my parts through use loads of KYB bits (Euro C P being one of their main parts factors) on a range of manufacturers cars and they don't seem to have any problem with them, but then they are generally repairing dull run-around cars and I doubt the customers would notice if they were a little noisy or lost performance quicker than OEM bits to be fair, MOT pass is all that matters :)

have a search on the forum, plenty of threads on gear selection and alignment a common problem is a missing 'C' clip on the gearlever pivot under the gear gator, lift that up and have a look, when you lean the lever over to engage 1st/2nd/reverse the lever slips on it's pivot rather than giving full reach. other than that, alignment of the cable ends/levers on top of the box isn't very difficult, just need a 13mm spanner. also, did you get a new clutch friction disk only? or was the release/spring plate changed too, is the release plate spring fingers are worn or weak, then with a new thick friction disk it might be dragging. wouldn't harm to check and bleed the clutch slave cylinder too.

I used some old seats to replace the driver's leg bolster and swapped the covers around from passenger to driver's side too, the most annoying thing about the base were the two rivets holding the rear of the seat base covers in position as you need to snip or drill them out. Took the opportunity to put all the covers through the washing machine too :) I didn't do the seat backs as it looked like too much trouble, would be interested to see how it went though. I guess a second seat tilt lever surround trim wouldn't look too bad on the inner sides of the seat backs if you swapped the covers from side to side, just leave the levers out? Not sure how else you could disguise it.

this bit: [ATTACH=CONFIG]61981[/ATTACH] from here too: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?37728-Gearlever-bushings-replaced-short-shift-and-selector-towers

I believe VW fitted the shifter first then the engine, exhaust, front subframe and rear beam, so... just reverse those steps, or alternatively follow Dave's instructions :)

well, you spurred me on to do something about those keys, as I've just put a new ignition barrel in I thought I'd retumble the other locks, done both driver and passenger handles but ran out of spare no3 tumbers, so I did the nasty thing and filed down the ones that weren't right. I just have a different one for the boot now, which isn't too bad as that can be turned level so the CL locks and unlocks it. I'm glad I did them actually, as the lock mechs were pretty dirty and needed a clean and re-grease anyway.

The lock tumblers can only be bought as a large expensive set afaik, but you can file down old ones or swap them from old vw locks, just like I haven't done with 4 keys for the one car now :lol: