davidwort

Drill a little hole in the casing to remove the lock barrel, there's a hidden sprung tag to release the lock barrel, see my fixed column how to for where to drill. Then with the barrel out the steering lock will engage if this is the fault.

Right, now I've. Just had this problem on my 8v, turned out the lock barrel was at fault. a pattern one for a tenner sorted it. What happens is when you remove the key the spring in the barrel isn't strong enough to disengage the steering lock so the locking mechanism doesn't then engage the column

Ah, now I thought what you describe as wishbone protectors were the brake coolers, in which case my comment still stands about passat ones I've seen which should fit the vr plus wishbones?

Lemforder are good, they are an OEM supplier AFAIK, generally more expensive than the other pattern parts around, their complete wishbones are VAG ones from what I can see. FEBI track rods from AVS rusted really bad on me after one winter, only cosmetic though as the joints themselves seem to be holding up fine. The pattern complete track rod and end I just fitted to the 8v was 9 quid trade (OK, not a widetrack one), but at that price I don't care if I replace it every year :lol:

unlikely to be the universal joint from the rack to the bottom of the steering column (which is what the description of the part sounds like from your 'mechanic') hard to tell from your description, but the clutch pedal/pedal box is attached to the bulkhead, and the rack is on the subframe, bolted lower but nearby so it could be any number of things. has he checked: steering rack tie rods (inner and outer joints) suspension top mountings wishbone bushes anti roll bar mounts and links engine mountings

in that case I might go and stand on the gate and sell raffle tickets for 1/2 hr :lol:

battery isn't going to like being laid up anyway, chances are you'll need a new one next time it comes to running the car, and if you left it connected you'd have to trickle charge/condition or it'd be dead in a month if you have an immobiliser and permanently live radio feed. I suppose this is where shelling out the extra for a 3-5yr warranted battery is worth it, either that or a specialised (and expensive) battery designed for intermittently used vehicles.

arse!

"very cheap to run" Well that's won me over, ideal for my Mrs to do the shopping and school run...

I'm not sure they are protectors, I think they're actually air deflectors for the brakes, and I'm sure there's a passat version too which may fit widetrack wishbones.

heated or non heated e-bay jobbies, need to fit into an old genuine glass back panel ideally which is a fiddle to get the old glass out of (well stuck) http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58775-Convex-Heated-replacement-mirrors&highlight=mirror+glass

in the wiki: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/5th_gear_cog_change.html

4th post down, pic of it http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?66533-Wiper-motor-cover-Aqua-Blue-L5CU-Bonnet-Warning-triangle&highlight=passat+wiper+motor+cover it's def a 94-97 passat part 3A2955128 on etka

check your camber and alignment yourself roughly, that should quickly point you to what's bent, all you need is some string and a spirit level, get a piece of straight wood (batten is ideal) about the diameter of your wheels if you don't have a 2ft builders spirit level car on level gound and check the camber, rim to rim, top to bottom, a couple of equal length bolts to stand the level/batten off the wheel face on the rim edge is handy to check front/rear alignment and tracking (ideally with four axle stands) run string down both sides of the car at wheel centre height and measure equal distance from leading and trailing rim edge on the rear wheels, you'll soon see from the angle of the string to the side of the body and front wheels where the wheels/hubs are out of alignment if it's already pulling then you'll get noticeable tire wear in no time too

more soundproofing, particularly in the doors, but also in the rear quarters and anywhere else you can squeeze more in. a lights on warning buzzer has paid for itself a few times too :) and a centre sunvisor or tinted foil above the rear view mirror fixes another corrado niggle

Hi Tom, if no-one else wants it and has something better to put on the stand :lol: I'll put my old 8v on there, will pm you my address.

An 02a gearbox will just bolt up, but the ratios on a tdi box won't suit the 16v engine, a 5th gear swap would be a better mod. See yandards guide.

it's a moisture membrane, not for soundproofing, very important it's sealed, particularly the bottom half and near the speaker as water getting past it will drain into the front footwell.

Well thank you 'quality bodyshop from some point in the past' who obviously decided that all car badges should be stuck on with bits of trim tape rather than the fixings on the car. At least I know where the condensation comes from now :lol: each of the four 'Corrado' badge tabs that fit into the body clips have been acting as little water conduits over the last week and yeaterday evening I discovered the boot awash. The genius bodyshop that resprayed the rear quarter (sometime before I owned it) had removed the little plugs for the badge in the bodywork and instead just fixed the badge with trim tape, but no trim tape around the holes, and this provides a very efficient way of channelling water into the boot. Still, at least that little mystery is solved now :)

Reading this thread it sounds like a cv to me, when the cv joint is cold and at maximum stress the balls shift in casing and then jump back into place, dismantling and repacking with cv grease may help, close inspection should show a slight groove worn on the cv housing, 99.9% of the time it won't happen and you won't get the characteristic clic-click of a very worn joint but cold reversing on full lock is def when this can happen.

any signs of condensation on the screen or anti-freeze smell inside the car? if it is the headgasket then you'll either get mayonnaise in the sump or clouds of white smoke(water vapour) out of the exhaust. Look carefully around the hoses, rad and flanges to the head though, they're the usual places to leak and often the heat evaporates it before you see any drips.

I'd get a set with torx heads, much easier to get out if they sieze in there.

bet that leaks water into the boot like a good-un :lol:

H3.

No, unfortunately you can't retumble the ignition lock barrel, it has a hardened metal cap that is pressed on and would be destroyed removing to get at the tumblers.