andihaz

Have alread done the thermostat and the belts for power steering and water pump, not too keen on pulling on the injectors as they dont look to keen on coming out, but if a needs must, i'll give it a go. When you say mainly impeller what sides that on? Do you just mean the casing, not actually taking it apart? I'll give it all a go and let you know how i get on. The way these things normally go for me i'll end up with half the engine out!

The chassis number should give it away, i cant remember what the differences are but i know their are different letters for different countries. Mines an import, not sure where from but on the logbook it states that it was imported from overseas. The only difference i have found so far is that mine has electronic headlight level adjustment from inside. Just hope that never goes wrong. Does yours have any unusual features like that?

sorry, its a 1.8 16 valve KR

Have found where my car is leaking coolant at last :) , it seems to be coming from the black plastic braket on the front of the cylinder head, where the feed from the radiator and the water pump go in to/out of the cylinder head. I have ordered the part but i was wondering if anyone has changed this part before? I cant decide whether the inlet manifold has to come off to do the job or not, i know it would make things easier, but then I'd have to get new gaskets for the manifold and the job will just grow, are their any other parts i might need to do the job, I'm going to replace the jubilee clips on the water pipes, and am going to try and get some of the allen head bolts that hold it on, as i can see getting the old ones off getting a bit messy. Any advice will be mucho appreciated.

So your saying that the one that is dying would be the one that didnt lock? Would the handbrake operation be affected by this? as it is pretty useless at the mo (even more then usual) but i havent tried to see what side thats on, i think that i will go get some readings off a brake force meter at a garage. Cheers

Thought i'd give my brakes a test yesterday, as the road was a bit wet, and have just got some new tyres (F1's front and toyos rear), was on a long straight on a quiet country road. When i braked hard the back left locked up and caused the car to vear to the right, as if the back end was stepping out. Thought it might have been due to some oil or grease on that bit of road, but everytime i tried it happened just the same. Anyone with any experience of this, or ideas on what could be causing this? I guess it won't have anything to do with the bias valve, as surely that would make both rears lock up not just the n/s. i jacked the car up when i got home, and apart from the bearing being a bit loose, their seemed nothing wrong, also checked the tyre pressures and they were all fine. In all my previous cars, it would always be the fronts that locked up first, as they take about 80% of the braking force i think. So any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Am thinking about taking it to a garage and using their brake force testing rollers and see whats going on front and rears.

I got a new brush pack for my alternator because the diodes had gone, so was getting a very spikey output. But the new one i've put in does like you say... the light comes on until you rev to about 2000 rpm, was hoping it was the brushes settling in, but it has been about 4 months now, and still it comes on until i rev it! andy ideas anyone?

just had the new golf, astra and focus as rental cars over the past month, had fun thrashing them all, but would have to say the astra was most fun, but I only did 30 miles in the new focus as the aircon was stuck on, and froze me solid at 7 in the morning, this is on a brand new model with only 600 miles on the clock! Good luck Ford, your gonna need it!

did it make much of an improvement to the bulb, as mine is very dim, I just thought it was one of those little corrado things that annoys us. Would be great to have it brighter

Could be a core plug, I had one of these start leaking from behind the cambelt, very cheap replacement but a pain in the arse to do as the cambelt and pulleys have to come off. Just a guess though!

I find mine pulls okay, but never too much weight in the trailor, and mines only a 1.8 16V, so a G60 should be fine, you only have to get to 60, so the torque of a G60 should be ideal.

£12.50 sounds cheap for a wheel bearing, is that all they cost, might be investing in a set of four if its only gonna cost £40. No need to try and figure out which one(s) are making the noise then!

Where exactly is it in wheelton, i dont live too far away from their at all, do they know corrados well? Think mine could do with a garage tune up.

nooo, i'd say theirs something wrong their, sure someone will point u in the right way, what is the MFA mpg looking like?

Replacing the rubbers is never a bad idea to, as they do s t r e t c h with age, after that you can see if it still needs adjusting or not.