waynos

nicked off another forum, made me laugh my arse off

unlucky massa :norty:

now the g is back up and running im looking at changing some of the connectors for new ones. The wires on my coolant sensors are kind of brittle at the point they enter the connector. Does anyone know where i can get new ones?

thanks mate

thanks mate

just a quick question. What way do i turn the distributor to retard the timing?

im watching wheeler dealer on discovery now and they have just chosen a corvette c4 to do up.looking at the front i got thinking...hmmm looks kinda familiar. take a butchers im on about the front bumper. The indicators look similar shape, the splitter is similar too . Even the way its shaped around the indicators is similar. Anyway there isnt really a point to this but i thought i would point it out lol

check the wiring at the fan. And i would also change the fan switch which is located in the radiator near to the battery

i have never had a dry joint before (touch wood)in a way ive kind of combined the two. Pushed about 7mm of wire trough the terminal and crimped that then the bit of wire left protruding ive soldered so it should be ok

shocking, why would you do that? the only thing i like is the bonnet vents.

right i got busy making my own. Used a 40 amp relay which i got off ebay, some old amp cable i had and some male and female spade connectors. All connections were soldered ( i dont trust crimping them!) hopefully i can get it on the car this weekend and also sort out my other problem

havent had a chance to check this as im feeling too poorly lol. however it was spot on before i went for "the drive" all timing marks were bang on

right ive deffo got a spark, checked with a timing light so its gota be fuel... the saga continues

i remember reading somewhere that this isnt a diagnostic port. (kr engines only have an ecu to control timing thats all) i also remember someone saying it could be a feed for extra gauges ie oil pressure

amen to that! the amount of wires ive seen snap in my hands due to so much exposure to heat is insane.

i would have put it down to my starter solonoid getting weak also but the one i swapped it for was only a couple months old which had me stumped! i may aswell give it a go as ive got nothing to lose lol. Im sure the mk5 golf uses this as well? i could be wrong though.

When i first got my car i could start the car and drive for hours on end however, if i turned the car off e.g. to fill up with petrol the minute i tried to start it i wouldnt get anything, not a click ,not an attempt to crank. Now ive been doing some research and it appears a lot of vws used to do this, especially those with bosch starter motors. They suffer from a heat soak(from high under bonnet temperatures) where the voltage to the starter solenoid terminal drops below ten volts or even more. This seems to make even more sense in my case as i swapped the starter and battery from my 16v and still had the same problem. My g60 gets way hotter than my 16v ever did. the solutuion.. A starter relay. Bosch did do a kit called the wr 1 which came with wiring etc and i think vw even did a relay for this too. it is wired so that the original starter wire trips the relay. The relay is positioned next to the battery so that you can have a nice short direct feed from the battery positive to the relay then from the relay to the starter solenoid. Earth can be taken from the gearbox earth. In effect this should also lengthen the life of your igntion switch as the load will be placed on the relay and not the switch. Your starter solenoid will now always get battery voltage nothing less. heres a pic i found showing the wiring of the bosch starter kit. They use a fuse so that in the event your starter is faulty it will blow this rather than fry the relay. I cant find the bosch kit for sale anywhere but im sure all the bits needed could be bought from somewhere like halfords for under 15 quid. Hope this helps anyone whos had the problems ive had, Now i still need to sort my other running problem lol

sounds awfully similar to the symptoms im getting, check my thread out lol be prepared to pull your hair out viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71927

sounds awfully similar to the symptoms im getting, check my thread out lol be prepared to pull your hair out viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71927

ignition switch was brand spankers from vw changed it due to some wierd starting issue i had.couldnt really see so didnt test for voltage at the starter.as for spark its strange we took a lead off and put another plug in.it wasnt sparking but then we realised the plug needs an earth.however whilst turning the car over like thise you could see the lead arc from its connector on the dizzy cap to the block! i know thats not a good thing

looks like i spoke too soon. went to take the car for a spin today. Got to the second road away from my house and the misfire was back but then it dissapeared. got to my mates house which is about 5 miles away and was idling at a roundabout.idle just dropped and the car cut out. Tried to crank again but it wasnt firing. left it for a second and tried again. this time the starter wouldnt turn. We pushed it round the corner and tried to jump start it off his car. It would just crank but no start . on the third or fourth attempt it wouldnt crank at all even though it was connected to another car. the fuel pump was coming on because i could hear it and im pretty sure its getting spark so i dont know whats up. heres a few pics lol friggin car i hate it!

sorry for the quality of the photos , i cant get my head around the auto focus on my phone!

more pics as promised heres the bulb fitted to the cluster - well one end of it insulated this just to be safe! the wire taped down to the cluster the tiny power inverter used to power the bulb (i put it in a large bottle top so the circuit wouldnt short out on anything behind the dash , deliberatly left the top open so it doesnt overheat) all assembled fitted into the car with the invertor leads taped to the dash just in front of the cluster where the live wire was spliced into the headlight loom better pics of each gauge, light up and with the clock / mfa connected also

yep direct replacment! only the 16v isnt catered for.Going to get some more pics in a little while

i was actually in the process of doing that but i thought id double check everything first ( i had another topic about fuel pressure)