John Blount

I’m waking the car up after winter ready for Stanford Hall in a few weeks and found the horn had stopped working? I’d push the centre of the steering wheel and could hear the relay switching but it would still not work? On checking fuse 13 I found this had blown, replaced it with a new one and with the ignition on still the horn wouldn’t work but once you start the engine all is fine? Don’t know why the fuse had blown time will tell on that but I’m sure the horn used to work without the engine being on? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cheers Sean.... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks guys, just wanted to check I’m understanding, I know you have to pull the pins on the top of the seats to un-lock them to get them to fold flat but i need to remove the two parts from the car completely? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi everyone... I’m refurbishing the leather interior and need to take the rear seats out, the base is no problem but how do you remove the “backs” ? I’ve unbolted them from behind the seat belt anchors but how are they removed from where they pivot in the door cards? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I used POR 15 stuff and found it really good Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I’m sure this has come up before and there is a known solution? I’ve ordered some new hoses which are made to order for the car to the original sizes and length etc but when they have arrived the front ones are missing the large securing grommet that attaches to the bracket that bolts to the suspension strut so now the hoses on the front will be free to float around. Originally the brackets were missing that attach to the suspension strut (taken off by the previous owner) when the original hoses were fitted and this was going to fail the MOT without them so I know I can’t leave the new ones in the same state so is there are solution such as a universal brake hose clamp etc? What have others done as I don’t like tie wraps and I’m sure that wouldn’t be the preferred method anyway. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Exactly Dox, took some thinking about apparently but I think he figured it out when he turned it over to start it and all the compression disappeared and the starter motor took off.

I brought this car two years ago from a car dealer in Hampshire who had been basically given it by a customer after non payment and because it failed an MOT, he wanted way to much for it so after some discussion I drove it away at a decent price with a full MOT. Over the following weeks it was evident it should have never have passed an MOT as drop links had split,lights on the dash didn’t work, ABS issues plus a host of other stuff all relatively minor but still needed addressing. This took some weeks to sort of which some of the jobs were: New ABS sensors all round with new disks and pads complete with new wheel bearings, the rear also had new calipers as these were seizing. The original coil springs and shocks were about worn out so I replaced these with coil overs and just lowered the car slightly, the “Halfords” type special wheels were replaced with new split rim BBS alloys with new Pirelli rubber. The original exhaust was about worn out so this was replaced with a new stainless steel system from Jetex back to the catalytic converter New bush’s and drop licks etc were fitted where needed The fuel tank was removed and cleaned and so was the area behind the filler neck under the wheel arch where I found the metal was just starting to rust, this area was all rubbed back and treated with POR 15 rust preventer & converter and then under sealed and painted back to the factory colour. While I was at it all the plastic front inner wheel arch covers were also removed and the same was done plus the inner liners were also painted and the fixings replaced with marine stainless steel ones. The engine issues were the hardest to solve and Vince from Stealth had to get involved, I had already replaced the radiator as the original was leaking and I had replaced all the user serviceable items such as plugs, leads and coil pack and I repaired air leaks by replacing the PCV valve etc but the car just wouldn’t run right and would cut out. After a few days with Vince it was diagnosed this was being caused by the oil pump in the sump failing of which once this was replaced the issue disappeared and its been fine since. The body work from a distance looked Ok but it had been painted before and badly and over the weeks of working on it I found a rust parch which turned into a hole on the OS rear quarter. [ATTACH]91216[/ATTACH] This was taken after I started investigating as it was quite well hidden so it was then decided the car needed painting again properly so I took the plunge and had it completely re-pained. [ATTACH]91219[/ATTACH][ATTACH]91222[/ATTACH][ATTACH]91225[/ATTACH] I got the car back and with new wheels I’m more than happy with the end result [ATTACH]91228[/ATTACH][ATTACH]91231[/ATTACH][ATTACH]91234[/ATTACH] I’ve since fitted period correct number plates to the car from the original dealer and I had the engine Terra cleaned which has made a massive difference to how it pulls it really is worth it in my opinion. [ATTACH]91237[/ATTACH] Im currently completing the interior tidy up which is really only the headliner and she’s ready to go in the summer. [ATTACH]91240[/ATTACH][ATTACH]91243[/ATTACH] ATTACH]91213[/ATTACH] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It’s attached to the front of the servo, can’t miss it really

I brought a front windscreen set from heritage for when I had mine re-sprayed but the guy who took the windows out said it didn't seem to fit so he cleaned the old one up and put it back! Obviously not an option in your case but if you want it to try your welcome??

Hi mate. Had simalar problems with mine initially but its quite a straight forward system really to fault find on. If the pump runs in the boot when you plug it in then it's likely this is Ok although it could be an intermittent problem with the pump causing the issue so if you can get hold of a replacement pump and try it that might be an idea. The door handles have switches in them which the key operates to tell the pump to operate. Are these all plugged in and more importantly working? Does the boot lock?? I don't think it would be an air leak or a door actuator problem as the boot pump would run constantly if there was an air leak (think it times out after a certain period if the pump runs for too long) I had an actuator problem in the drivers door where the diapram had slit inside which caused an air leak so the doors wouldent lock, as I'm writing this I remember the actuator has a multi plug electrical connection connected of which this must be so it knows if it's in the locked or un-locked position as it's not a pump it's self so why would it need wiring otherwise, perhaps this part of the actuator in either the drivers or passenger door is not working? As the fuel cap locked I think it sounds like something's un-plugged in one of the doors as why would the fuel cap lock otherwise? Make sure the door actuators in both front doors are plugged in as well as the door handle switches.

Wouldn't think it's a broken wire in this case as you can hear a clicking noise presumably from the motor if a cable had broken it wouldent do any think at all I would think? Either the motor has or is failing or the mechanism has failed or seized.

With the Rayne kit you can get them to supply uprated bulbs with the kit. I fitted it and tried it next to the wife's 2 year old Mini that's got halogens and there was no difference, well worth doing!

I fitted the Rayne automotive one and it got all the OE plugs etc so it can be immediately reverted back to original wiring if needed. Takes minutes to install

I'm looking at recovering my headliner and sunroof cover as its as dirty as hell from previous owners and it's starting to sag in places. I'm after both so I can basically have one to swap straight back in of which then I'll have a complete set which I can recover and sell on. Does anyone have a good complete un-damaged headliner and sunroof panel and is in the midlands (Derby/Birmingham) area so I can collect??

The Fiat one and the new one I fitted is exactly the same as the picture you have posted with regards the connectors as I believe although thousands of them look the same there not as your original aerial has a female connector and most others are male connectors so I found it quite hard to come across one. The amplifier if fitted behind the sterio will be within inches of where the aerial lead plugs into the rear of the sterio so you shouldn't have to go tracing the aerial cable back as it should be pretty obvious if it's there our not. If it's not then I don't know to be honest as it must be in the base of the aerial as Sean says but I wonder how that works as like mine yours has no wiring for an electrical feed to it so I don't know how that would work.

Does anyone have a layout drawing or a picture of how the drivers door lock mechanism connects to the black plastic finger on the rear of the latch? The plastic finger on mine has failed and fell off just leaving the rods from the central locking actuator and the other from the lock pin dangling in mid air but I don't know who they fit back together now I've got a new finger. Thanks.

Got your PM, I'll take a photo tomorrow and e-mail it to you. I'm confused about the amplifier then my self but if it helps the one I got works fine in my car so I would think it would be fine in yours as mines a 95 VR also. If you look an the ever useful e-bay and type in "car aerial amplifier" you will see what I'm talking about above and these are listed as amplifiers so I wonder if there are different sorts for different ages of cars?? Pull your stereo out and see what's on the back of yours?

I didn't know that it was built into the base? I know when I swapped the stereo out in mine I found where the aerial plugs into the rear of the stereo there is a connector (like a short fat pencil) that connects in between the cars stereo and the aerial wiring to the back of the car which I presumed was the amplifier as it has a blue cable that connects into one of the multi plugs that plug into the rear of the stereo. Is this a suppressor then as I thought that this was the applifyer?

I got it off e-bay after a lot of searching.. I don't know it it's a proper genuine one from Fiat but it looks the part. I've got the receipt at work so I'll dig it out tomorrow and let you know where I had it from and the price. If you PM me your e-mail I'll send you a picture of what it looks like. Regards the amplifier if I remember right it's fitted to the rear of the radio so changing the aerial won't cause you an issue.

Hi Skid, Yeah I fitted one off a Fiat 500 when I had my car re-painted in the summer as Fiat like VW of this age use the same connectors off their aerials to the aerial lead that runs through the car to the stereo. It was a straight swap!

It's great... would love to put some pictures up but I just can't get it to work..

Hi mate, that's great... could you PM me the cost and bank details and I sort payment to you.

Hi Everyone, As above has anyone got a drivers side door latch with the part number 536 837 016A that I can purchase? John

I've now got hold of a Bentley manual.. thanks for the advice.. I've a theory after remembering a couple of things. When I brought the car the central locking pump had packed up and a local VW specialist replaced it with one I got for them, I vaguely remember him saying he found an air leak which he sorted but only lock the car using the drivers door. Here's my theory: I have always used the drivers door to lock the car thereby manually locking that door of which doing so the micro switches in the door handle command the central locking pump to run and lock the rest of he car. As I never used any other door to unlock or lock the car I would never have noticed the problem. Now the alarm locks the car this has caused an issue as the key isn't being used in the drivers door and isn't being locked manually. When the central locking pump is commanded to run it locks all the other doors and filler cap but presuming a component (vacuum/air wise) has been disconnected it has no way of locking the drivers door. I think the actuator or vacuum tube etc in the drivers door is leaking air which caused the central locking pump to run constantly which is why it packed up and I needed to get another. I bet they fitted the new pump and that ran constantly of which they got it down to the drivers door and disconnected and blocked the vacuum tube so the rest of the system operated. Does this sound plausible to anyone who's had a simalar issue?