John Blount

Can someone give me an idea what might be faulty with this one?? Just had an alarm fitted today (Sigma SG30) before this the cars never had an alarm before only the standard central locking with the key no alarm at all. This alarm like most when armed with the key fob will automatically lock the doors hence the key is not needed to lock the car. The auto electrician who fitted it today has told me he thinks the drivers door lock mechanism is faulty as when armed with the Sigma key fob the passenger and boot lock but the drivers door doesn't and after a few seconds the central locking activates again as it thinks the drivers doors not closed! I wouldn't have noticed originally using the key in the drivers door as I'm manually locking it but now the alarms doing it the 'Peg' in the door card to manually un-lock the doors doesn't even attempt to move like the passenger one does. Any one have any ideas if it is the mechanisim at fault and if so are we talking about the mechanism under the plastic cover that locks around the catch holding the door closed or is it one inside the actual door itself?? Any help would be appreciated:thumbleft:

Could I get a set please??

Hi Jim, I really interested, I've just got my car all painted and back together and although not concourse level it's pretty acceptable. If you need to fill the space I'm interested?

Cheers Sean, Jim I'll get some ordered up.... Tie wraps have there uses but not in this situation.. Sean: thanks for the offer but I need a couple of other bits so I'll get off the web although thanks for the heads up about N/S and O/S

He's said he's had a couple of enquiries... There well worth a go... If your local feel free to come and have a look.

So it was a full respray with all the windows out, you need to budget for a new windscreen as its 50/50 that it will break getting it out, mine broke so £300 fitted saw a new one put back in. All the other Windows came out Ok but if your looking at a full windows out job then make sure you can get some replacements just in case. I had all the doors,boot,bonnet taken off and all the door shuts etc were done along with the sun roof but I opted to leave the wings on as they were rust free of which I had already treated them internally with rust preventer/stone chip and waxoyl so I didn't see the point in removing them. I brought as many new bits as I could such as door mirror gaskets,door rubbers, roof aerial etc so the rebuild would be as easy as possible and it proved to be well worth it. Rust wise I was lucky other than a welding repair that was needed on the off side rear sill, it looked like the previous owners had neglected to repair some minor damage and the dreaded rot had set in. Luckerly the damaged area was only small and a patch was put in. The jobs that good you would never tell and where it went into the sill area where the stonechip is its in-noticible. I'm a little bit pickey and thought you would be able to see it but I was wrong it's a great job. I've had the two seams on the rear panel above the rear bumper filled as they have always bugged me and I'm really pleased I did, it's just a shame VW couldn't do it in the factory but I suppose it's down to cost. The job took a while to be honest about 3 months but I chose this myself as its a weekend car so not needed in the week plus it helps with the price as they do it around other insurance repairs where they have got a couple of hours here and there. The end result is a top quality job which was £5000 all told. I would put some pictures up but I still can't get the hang of doing them but if you PM me I'll send you a couple over.

I've just had mine done at Jacksons Coachworks in Loughbrough and the job is superb.. I well recommend them. The paint finish is like glass and they went above and beyond in what they did..

Similar thing happened to me, I dropped the key and it split apart just like it would if your changing the battery for the key light. Didn't think anything of it to start with after putting it back together until the car wouldn't turn over(dash lights on but that's it) Turns out the chip in the key had fell out when I dropped it so the car thought it was just a key without the transponder. Luckily for me I found the chip but it's worth checking its in the key.

I'm assuming it won't even turn over?? Immobiliser more than likely either the factory one or one that's aftermarket if fitted?

So it was MOT day today, cars gone through OK although the chap has said I need to get the brake hoses changed. In fairness I know they need changing as their the originals and it's one thing that's going to be done over the winter but its the reason he gave me why they need changing thats confused me?? To look at them there worn out and tired so I was expecting that to be the reason but I was told that they are too long?? I have fitted some coilovers in the last few months and the car is lowered but only about 30-40mm from standard and its certainly not "slammed" to the floor. So here's the question, if I get new brake hoses either original or aftermarket etc there going to be all the same lenght so how do those of us get away with this when the cars are lowered? I don't understand that lowering a car by 30-40mm is that critical and can make much difference? One thing to mention is that the coilovers on the front don't have the bracket fitted to them like the original shock/spring has to secure the hoses too. I suppose he could mean this? How have others got around this missing bracket as many other coilovers I've seen on the market don't have them? Any ideas would be appreciated.. John

As above more than likely an air leak, could also be the blue temp sender if it only does it when cold. I had a simalar thing happen to me and as you say it's been sitting for a while it might be worth changing the oil if you haven't already? Mine did the same where it wouldn't idle properly and it was because the oil pump was faulty and it was jamming the lifters open, once the oil was warm they would work fine and the problem went away. Changing the oil and possibly cleaning the throttle body might sort it.

What's the difference if it's a car part?? Surely damage is damage?? How do they justify that..

If you use your car for road use I think HID retrofit kits are now illegal as they are not OE equipment and E rated. I think if you fit them to your car it may fail an MOT so I would check this first?

A lot to think about.. Thanks guys

My cars currently having a full respray of which I really wanted the engine bay cleaning and repainting as well but this involves a lot of work which I can't do plus the cost is just that bit too much for the wife to be happy with me spending. That said I will get it painted out next year but I need some advice, I believe the engine needs to come out to replace the timing chain and tensioners and as I have no history and the engines out anyway it would make sense to do. The replacement of the clutch is also a no brainier and I suppose the water pump but is there anything else I should change while the engine is out? I'm perfectly happy with the standard VR engine so I'm not looking at uprating cams etc I just want it to be reliable? For those of you who have had simalar repairs such as chains and clutch etc what would a "ball park" cost be?

Could I have a red one please?

Now that is dedication!!! Hello buddy..:thumbleft:

Well I ended up buying this car in September last year and it's ended up being quite a good one. I have managed to sort the poor idling issue out with the help of Vince at stealth and it runs great now after a lot of loving LTC which I have quite enjoyed doing and learning about. I brought it with a full MOT on it and in fairness it should never have been given one as when I got it stripped down a couple of ball joints were split right open, exhaust was blowing from the mid section and other things such a the 'tell tail' on the dash for the high beam wasn't working. All this was easily sorted though. The dealer never did change the Radiator so it was still leaking when I drove it in September, so much for him sorting that out. I have changed the alloys for some new split rim BBS's with new tyres and I've fitted some coil overs as the originals were on there last legs, I'm not a boy racer so I've only dropped it a bit but it does make the stance of the car better to look at. Ironically on the paint, it has had a re-spray before as mentioned but when you look closely it is quite a poor one as there are lots of fibres in the top coat. It's actually being fully stripped and re-sprayed on Wednesday which will take around 4 weeks. All in all not a bad car really for 22 years old so once finished in July I can have a good drive in it before winter sets in :dance:

There's a complete servo for sale on e-bay that looks like it's still got one fitted to it. Might be worth buying that and taking the part off you want.... I had to do the same.

No bulge on mine.

??

Thanks Sean,Ian... Thought they would be but a couple of used ones would be fine for me

Cheers Tom..

I've got no history Sean so I think your right, it did go to a so called specialist for a check over when I brought it and I asked him at the time if it was worth changing and they said not really.. I think it's a job I'll do. I'll also replace the secondary pump while I'm at it I think.

Thanks Jim, will only be using it when the suns out never in the winter so hopefully it will always be warm. I know of problems in the oil not getting hot enough in cooler conditions hence I was thinking of getting one with a built in stat.