harley_steel

Glad to see you got to a solution you are pleased with, shame it took spending extra money. Just one last thought, did you drive it at all with the other suspension on? That way making sure it was actually settled rather than just measuring straight after it got off the jack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do your rear shock mounts look like? Want me to compare measurements in those? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rear Bolt eye to bottom of cup 320mm Uncompressed front spring 335mm Front strut bottom to cup 225mm Compressed front spring top plate to bottom of cup 265mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I only have an on strut length for the rear, as I left my spring compressors at a buddies. They measure 30cm from the bottom of the top plate to the top of the cup. I can try and get you an uncompressed length in the week if you need it. Do you still need the front? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just took a set off today. I will try and remember to measure them tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got round to doing a driving video

I'm in the US and I managed to get a ridiculous deal on it, but the last I saw the non-resonated cat-back sells for £450ish I will try and get some driving videos with my GoPro once I actually get the car registered and insured this week. The exhaust sounds awesome though especially at wide open throttle. No drone at all when cruising also.

More putting this here for reference. Finally fitted my Milltek Classic non-resonated cat back, along with a 200 cell high flow cat. Excuse the webcam quality, my USB mic was the best way to capture the sound. The water is from the fact I just washed the car.

Delete

The offset and width is quite often stamped on the backside of the wheel. It is going to be hard to give you an answer without those two pieces of information. Another option is to load up that corner and use a tap measure to try and see how far the wheel currently sits from the arch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trying to replace the cat on my 93 VR6, but struggling to get the flange off. I cut the cat off in order to get better access to cut the nuts off the bolts. I even cut the head of one of the bolts off on the downpipe side and used a pin punch and hammer to remove the rest of the bolt, but it won't budge. Are the flanges threaded? Anyone got any suggestions to separate the flanges? My next option would be to try and drill out the bolts. I don't imagine drilling stainless steel is much fun though. This is the state it is in currently I am trying to keep the downpipe in good shape, as I don't really want to replace it.

Are you running it with or without at cat? Just got mine and in two minds as to whether to run it on the original cat or go with a test pipe

I pulled the trigger on a non resonated with polished tip. Will probably be one of a very few running a Milltek classic system in the US. I will post up sound clips for reference once I get it on the car.

Just picked up a VR6 and I am looking to get an exhaust for it, as it still has the stock exhaust. I have heard the original Milltek and know it is a popular choice, but I am wondering if anyone is running the new classic version. Would like to hear sound clips if possible, but even just general feedback on them would be awesome. Thanks, Harley