Dancing Fish

I think I know what you mean now. I wonder what I thought they were. Some kind of washing mechanism even though i know there is no washing mechanism down there. Ah well, here's hoping I rescind the "toolness" before attempting to fix it!

T chet did you get this sorted out? There is about a four inch hose from the water pump that attaches to the metal pipe that comes down from the heater past the block. That metal pipe seems to have a T junction on it with a further short hose coming down from the oil cooler. Or at least there was on mine until it split big time earlier today (the four inch effort). The code on the side of it was 027 121 033, but having checked a few posts it seems to have been replaced by part number 037 121 058 (maybe thats the g60 version?). Anywho, just wondering if you noticed whether it was bigger at the water pump end than the other end. Have some normal hose was going to use but this difference in diameter would be an issue - which is why the hose i have does not seem keen on going on at the water pump end. Further, is it actually straight or slightly kinked? Don't really fancy spending a load on a four inch hose. Tee hee. DF

Hi My drivers footwell was decidely wet, so I decided to find the culprit. I soon found that when pouring water down the front sunroof drains that whilst about half drained out the bottom near the wheel arches, the rest drained down the side of my dash and into my footwell. Nice. It's defo this, my doors were open and I tried it a few times and it was leaking higher than those holes in the engine scuttle bit so it's not them - i had cleared them anyway. Also, i have pushed a length of piping down these drains and pulled it out the bottom so there is no obvious blockage. So the question is this, how do I do something about that? I assume that there is some kind of hose that attaches to these drain points and that it is either not attached very well or the pipe is split. So how do I check that? Is the only way to it to remove the headlining? Saw a post on that. Seems a bit of a job. Can I really be arsed? I've no idea really how long it has been like that, and probably only shown up since my heater has packed up (dodgy bypass vales or airlock right?!), so if i fix that, perhaps i can live with a small amount of water that gets dried by the heater. Good excuse not to wash it too! Or i could just wash around the sunroof! Cheers DF

Hi I apologise for this post, but I need to tow my Corrado - see engine bay! - and it doesn't seem to have a front towing eye? Is it supposed to have one?! Am I being a complete tool or something?! It is a 1.8 16v 1991. Got one on the back obviously, but the front bumper is smooth and couldn't work out what to attach the tow rope to? Cheers DF

I'm not breaking it. I can't be bothered. I don't have the room or the time or the patience to do this, so it would be a matter of getting the work done, taking it to the scrappy or someone else somehow picking it up. Corozin - yes, I would indeed be disappointed if I fixed it then my gearbox lunched itself! But, I suppose that could happen to any car, albeit older ones are probably more prone to it - but yes, I am working on the basis that I replaced much of it. From day one the subframe hasn't been in great shape so at least this would conquer that. The front cross member is pretty rusty too and the rear axle could do with some help, but should be fine. The issue is this is my only car, and I don't want two, so if something breaks, big decisions need to be made quickly. I could probably get a decent second hand sub frame from somewhere, but i don't have the time to find it. Bcstudent - you may not think the Leon is boyracerish, but your avatar is a picture of you pulling a wheelie on your bike ;-) I didn't get it serviced last year. Had I done so, the bill would be less. So in some ways I can bear that in mind, but yes, financially (note: i'm an accountant) should only bear in mind future cashflows. However, let's say I spent the money, and a further 750 in each of the two next MOT/Service rounds each lasting a year at which point i could sell it for £1k. That is total cost of £2700 less than £1000 so £1700. That Alfa will probably be worth a grand or less by then so that is £2000 right there, and who knows what could go wrong in between with an alfa, but with a 0-60 of 7.3 and apparently good handling and a great sounding engine, is it worth it? It would be nice to sit in a nice cabin again though! Diesels will probably hold their value better, especially if oil prices rocket again, but then if that happens, having the least amount of capital tied up in assets is probably the best way forward, which would point to the corrado again. And to think, all this time i have never spent £40 getting headlight loom so have been driving around in the dark half the time I'm tempted to get it done. Oh, and the OZs have had rather a tough time of it over the past 4 years. The first time I kerbed one I nearly died, since then I've got used to it!

Hi Basically, my 91 1.8 16v Corrado failed it's MOT and the bill is pretty big so I'm wondering whether to bin it. The main issue is there is a big hole in the subframe where the nearside wishbone attaches that I don't think can be welded (sub has been welded on flat sections twice before but this is a big hole, about 2in square on the corner) A new one is about £300, plus about £150 to fit. Also needs rear disks and pads, apparently some hand brake cables and some other bits. To get through MOT is about £750. Also has a big oil leak I think from the intermediate shaft oil seal and needs a decent service probably about another £300. Also needs two front tyres soon, so we are looking at about £1200. If it wasn't for the subframe wouldn't even be thinking about it. Further, has discovered a wet patch under the drivers mat and the heating doesn't work and the engine oil is going up to 120ish so i think either there is an air lock or the heater matrix has seized. The wet patch could be an issue since have no idea where this could be coming from so can't put time or value on it. I bought the car in Mar 2004 for £1495 and have since spent £4.5k (had i known this when buying it might not have been bought) on it including: New stainless steel exhaust OZ Super Leggera alloys New suspension and bushes and ball joints everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Various disk and pads, tyres, belts, lupo wipers, geometry, MOTs etc etc etc. It is green pearl, and when cleaned, looks the bomb, especially with the OZs. However, there are various rust issues on the paint work including the standard rust along the front of the bonnet and at the drivers side of the front arches. i.e., in short, I could tart it up a bit, but a re-spray would be a huge amount that I don't think could be justified. Having said all that, it drives great, goes round corners and roundabouts like nobodies business, has never broken down and generally makes you feel rather cool right?! Though at times I do think the engine is a bit underpowered. And all my electrics work so there. Well, apart from the heater! The spoiler is so cool right?! So financially, it has cost me £6k for nearly 5 years, being £1200 a year since it's currently worth zero. If I spend £1200 getting it fixed and it lasts for a year and can get it serviced and MOT'd for £300 (on the basis the main issues are solved) and could then sell it for £1k, it would have cost me £7.5k, less the £1k i can sell it for, hence, £6.5k and hence less per year. I am looking at changing jobs and don't really want to spend money on a car if it turns out I get a train to work. Options i have been considering: 2001 Alfa Romeo 156 2.5 24v £3k 68k miles. Apparently goes like stink but drinks petrol. This one is mint though. 2004 Seat Leon 1.8t Cupra £6k 45k miles. Also mint. Apparently goes well, and has the benefit of everything being new but is it a bit boy racerish? 2003 VW Golf 150pd gti £6.5k 50k miles. Ok condition, 50+ mpg and double rapid, but sounds like a diesel and have heard handling not great. 2004 Audi A3 2.0 TDI £8k 60k miles. Kind of making this up, but I think they look great and the trim is great and more suited to my years (29). But getting pricey is I don't use it. All of the above have class interiors and don't have the rust issues etc that the Corrado has nor do they completely condensation up when it gets cold (i don't understand this), and they probably go better and have better stereos etc and are probably quieter but they are not a Corrado right?! Either way, I need to make a decision this week. Don't even know how to bin my Corrado?! Seems a shame given all the good bits about it. Essentially, the question is do I want to keep my Corrado I guess. I hate the idea of getting red of it. Hate. It's MY car. And only Corrado owners wave at each other like bus drivers! Would be interested in other peoples experiences of Corrado's dieing and thoughts on the above car options or other suggestions. Thanks and happy new year, Dancing Fish Here it is: Corradosmall.JPG[/attachment:oq71y3gh]

Hi, One of the three central locking wires that goes into the plug connection that connects the wiring to the door handle, has corroded and broken off right next to the entrance to the plug making it essentially impossible to re-wire it back into the plug. Therefore I am left either having to buy a new plug and cut all three wires and re-wire. OR Just cut the wires and by pass the plug and connect to the door handle side using male female connectors or something similar. Does anyone know if there is anything in the plug that is required, such as a fuse? I suppose i could put in an inline fuse if this is required. Further, the wire corroded due to the wetness in the door area and the fact it justs sits on the bottom of the door panel. Anyone got any good proven solutions to this. I could just duck tape it halfway up the inside of the door i suppose? Thanks DF.

Well, upon closer inspection, drying the area down then running the engine and doing a bit of oil leak reading, it would seem it is the oil pressure switch that sits on top of the cooler. so have bought a new one (about £9) and 2ltrs of Synta Silver (£8 ) and hopefully that is all hunky. fit it later. Well done me. Delete!

Hi All, I have an oil leak seemingly coming from the area near the top of my oil filter/oil cooler/crankcase breather hose. Since gravity pulls down, the uppermost area is the breather hose, so having checked, this would seem to be the culprit. I have checked the dipstick and it is below min, so off to get some SS. However, I do not understand why there would be a leak from the CC breather hose? Surely this would only happen if there were too much oil in the engine, which cannot be the case if it is below min?? In terms of history, the oil filter is about 18 months old, and some muppet (not me) overfilled the engine and it spat a load of oil out of the hose and into the airbox, creating a james bond effect smokescreen. Haven't really bothered cleaning it yet. That was about 8 months ago. Help would be appreciated. DF x

Thanks. Just rang em. Very helpful. Well, hopefully. They sending me a "drill out kit" and some new bolts. You need the code you got with the bolts. Hopefully this will work. I asked what would happen if it didn't. He assured me it would. If it should work, I think i'll be using my lock bolts sparingly in future, replacing them with normal bolts prior to sending it anywhere with a airgun. Good customer service. Pity the bolts broke though. DF.

Hi, Sorry to update this but am having a nightmare also. I have some OZ Superleggera on my C, and used a set of McGard standard locking bolts to keep them safe. However, it appears after a series of airguns at garages etc and probably some off square tightening and untightening over the last year or so by me, the end of the locking nut broke off. Thanks. The McGard bolts are hardened steel and the bolt appears to be seized in as well - not sure if this would have anything to do with me living by the sea. Anywho, I unfortunately let someone at KF have a go with an air chisel and that mungled the bolt. However, I then got my dad to try and drill the bolt out and that buggered two bits and got nowhere. Then he tried an angle grinder and finally broked a chisel trying to hammer it off. He also smashed a socket over the top which gripped but could not get it to move and eventually came off. Good steel. My pa has suggested a could a hole around the bolt in my alloy, take me alloy off then would have significantly more bolt to grip, saw or whatever. This is feasible but obviously bye bye alloy. I have a fifth, but, well, i don't want to lose my fourth, especially since i curbed my third massively just after xmas - doh. Has anyone successfully drilled or somehow removed McGard bolts from their hub? What drill speed/drill bit materials did you use or other gubbins. How about some Plusgas (if it is seized) or some Carbon Dioxide to freeze it Terminator 2 stylee!??!! DF. Soon to have 3 wheels on my wagon.

Hi All, I have recently had my front two tyres replaced and a both outer CV boots. The two tyres that came off were wore down to the renewal lines and in particular were worn on the insides - due to the fact that I go around roundabouts at a very fun pace. I have previously had my alignment and tracking done twice, so it was spot on. The steering currently feels a bit weird. Could be due to the tyres. However, this is the thing I do not get; Prior to the two tyres being fitted, and the latter of the two CV boots (the first was done a few weeks ago), when going straight, the horizontal bar on my steering wheel was lower on the right than the left, i.e. to go straight i was in theory going right. However, now when going straight, the horizontal is lower on the left than the right, i.e., to go straight i am in theory steering a bit left. I do not think this happened when i got my first CV boot done, so it must have been either during the tyre changing or more likely when i got the second CV boot done. During this time (which was MOT work) the garage also welded some of my front subframe, but i dont think they took it off. I could be wrong. How would this scenario have come about regarding my steering wheel. Am i gonna have to fork out another 50 notes to get my alignment & camber done. The rears should not have changed though so will it be less than for all 4 wheels? Any help appreciated. DF.

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my central locking that hopefully someone can help with. 1. From the passenger side I have no problems. Just the simple half turn will engage all locks. 2. From the drivers side, when unlocking, i have to turn the key as far as it will go and hold it and sometimes it will unlock. Other times the drivers lock will start coming up and then go back down again. When locking, i think it locks, but again, you have to hold it a full hard turn. 3. When i tried to close the drivers window by using the key in the door lock when locking the door, the window did not go up, but i do not have a problem with the windows. It seems to be something to do with the drivers lock. Does this mean there is a motor gone somewhere, or a fuse problem or what? And where would the offending part be situated? Thanks in advance for any help. DF.

Erm, What's a heat exchanger and where is it and how would the moisture get in the car? There is a rattling kind of noise coming from the glovebow kind of area. I presume this is one of my speaker wires that i have fitted rattling but could it be internal leak?

No signs of overheating no. How did you find out it was actually the head gasket? Once you had taken the head off? Was the gasket obviously knackered? Or was it a case of replacing everything else and it was the only thing left? DF

First of all, I have read the coolant sticky and it doesnt particularly help. I have a coolant leak. There are NEVER any pools of coolant under car or any noticeable leaks. The system has been pressure tested, and the only thing it showed was a miniscule rad leak. The rad has been replaced. Coolant is still leaking though - somewhere. However, there is no brown foam in the coolant and the oil looks fine. So head gasket doesnt seem that likely. So where else can it be going! What internal leaks into the engine can there be that are burnt off that i wont find and that aren't the head gasket???????? The tank holds pressure, so presumably it cannot be this. The tank cap is blue. I love my car, but its getting on my tits, and eating my money! One other thing that i do not think is related is that it sounds really tappetey when it starts from cold. Like a 1l fiesta! Goes after it warms. Any ideas? Use your imaginations people!

Ahah! This sounds just like what my valver is doing. That classic little 500rpm increase when you change. I also have a special other example: Should i be proper flooring it in 3rd whilst overtaking a vehicle on an a road, when i change into 4th when im next to em, the pesky engine goes to the red line and i think ive broken the engine. Not pleasing. I even tried practising my gear changes since i was considering whether i'd just got lazy! Dont suppose you have the part numbers? And where is the grommet? Engine bay or interior? And does this cable go from the accelerator (i.e. inside cabin) to the throttle thing on top of the head in the engine bay?

I seem to remember the black wire is the aerial amp power wire. If your amp in the aerial base is not corroded as per the previous part of this post, it might help your signal. You have to attach it to the poweramp out of your head unit. If you dont have one, just tape it off. To be honest though i wouldnt be that bothered. If your signal is rubbish it is because the amp is corroded, in which case proceed as per the above instructions. If it works fine, just tape it off. As mentioned, it is arguable whether it actually does anything anyway even when in full working order.

Hi Dude, Just done the exact same thing with the exact same speakers, on my 16V. Apparently door speakers werent fitted as standard. You have to take the door cards off, and the bottom tray bits of the dash. The dash is really easy, just undo various screws. The door is a bit harder, locate all screws, and the killer is the door handle. You will see a hole in the bottom. You have to put a screwdriver in here and pull like mad, then just as its about to break, it comes off, and you see that the handle is actually made of two bits, a cover that is clipped on, and the main bit, which is bolted on. Then you have to take the pods of, decide how you want to fit the speakers. You can use the plastic pins as guides - i alradited them in. Then you have to feed the new wire through the plastic bit in the door. To do this, sellotape the wire to a metal rod, like a coat hanger, and push through, from the car side first. Then wire it all up. A point of note. Having fitted the speakers, i think they are too trebly. In the shop, they would have had a better baffle and soundbox than the corrado door. For low down speakers, you dont want trebly speakers, since they are directional, and thus simply pump noise at your feet. I would suggest changing them and fitting a crossover, which is what ill be looking at this weekend. If you are fitting your speakers in parallel, they need to have the same ohm rating and will half the total ohms on your each affected channel from your amp/head unit. Make sure your amp/head unit can handle this (most have a minimum ohm rating) else itll start smoking! PM me if you need more info. DF.

Hi, The car is a 1991 1.8 16V. There were no door speakers fitted. Currently in the facia are some 70W Sony customs (70W 45hz - 25khz). I bought some Sony Explode 13cms (130w 80hz-23khz 4 Ohms - Cheap but sounded okay in the shop) and fitted them in the door pods. This involved aralditing the buggers to the plastic pins since there didnt seem to be any proper fixings. Since my head unit only has outs for one set of front speakers, i connected the new door speakers to the wires of the current facia's through standard terminal clips, thus running the front in parallel. Job done well I thought - 12hrs (ahem!!) but got there in the end. So i turned it on, and it sounds like arse. The door speakers have no bass - when i did a test run whilst driving i actually had to stop the car, put the fader to front and put my ear to the pod to check they were even working! Could this be because I routed them in parallel and did not use a crossover, or are the speakers/door pods just rubbish. What i find confusing is there seems to be more bass and general noise from the facia speakers. Should I rewire, or will fitting a crossover work and how? (I want actual electrical physics answers please!). Oh, and i cant take the speakers back, since, as previously mentioned, i araldited them in! FYI Pioneer 6X9 on rear shelf. Alpine CD Receiver with 4X35W output. Cheers, DF.

I did make pics, but accidentally deleted the files cos im a tw*t. Sorry! The signal wire you can test for with a voltmeter, or if you dont have one, just hook it up to your stereo again and try both wires. One is the amp wire which you dont want anymore. Simply put a wire coathanger on em and see which one gets best reception. The button is the other side of the bit you screw the aerial into yes! Once you have taken the amp circuitboard out of the cone, it's the obvious bit of metal at the top in the inside of the cone. The whole process took me about 3 hours, but that included taking the headliner down. My tip would be to take your time since if you rush it you split things for the sake of 1hr and it pisses you off. Oh, and when you replace the cone on top of the car, throw some grease around the hole and the base of the unit to waterproof it. DF.

Ah, Yo comprendo, One of mine is loose. The tab must have broken. I was a bit unsure as to how the glue would work!!! DOH!

Dudes, How do I detach and re-fit my side repeaters? Is is some kind of putty or glue or something? DF.

And.......... On most of the component speakers i listened to the bigger speaker was lacking bass. Is this normal? Are there some decent components for not much wonga? And......why do i want Audioscape door pods? Just because they look pretty? I have plenty more things to buy first! Like some front brakes!

I saw the Audioscape thread thanks! What is the exact positioning of the dash tweeters? Do you think it is a good idea to simply remove the current dash speakers due to the muffling effect. Putting treble speakers in there seems pointless since treble speakers are by nature directional.