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FrankyEight

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Everything posted by FrankyEight

  1. A little memento of my 6 year relationship with my Corrado (not like that). I don't miss maintaining the thing but I do miss how it felt to drive, how it sounded and how it handled... Sold last year for a MK5 Golf GTi. The Corrado
  2. Metering head. The first replacement I'd sourced must have also been bad. Another one appeared on eBay in Lithuania... and did the trick!
  3. Hello all, to bring this post to a conclusion, I'm glad to say that the car is now fixed, awake from its coma! I managed to source a second replacement metering head (courtesy of Lithuania) and this (unlike the first replacement I sourced...), has woken the car from its slumber, Corrado lives on! Thanks for your comments and advice.
  4. Hello all, just to draw this feed to a conclusion... the Corrado is now fixed and therefore no longer for sale at £2,000. I may still be selling the car in due course, however I can't easily see how to delete or edit my post here. Thanks for all your comments and interest.
  5. Thanks for this, do you know the best place to buy the injectors? A quick look on VW Heritage I see some for £88 each. Thanks again.
  6. Hi, thanks for the message — I'm sure the garage where it's at would have looked at this — I know that the filter was replaced a year or so ago and, seeing as fuel is getting from the pump to the metering unit ok, I presume the filter isn't the culprit?
  7. Once again, thanks for all your comments. Is it possible that a bad relay could be causing my problems? Does anyone have a diagram for the 9A fuse/relay laout and know whether any of the relays could be responsible, if bad? Thank you!
  8. Sadly can't get to the car for a while as it's in the garage, but can describe it — key in the ignition and turn the car on as usual, light in the dash appear, mileage etc all as normal — further turn the key to start the car and... nothing! No cranking, no noise, no change of dash lights etc, just nothing. Remove throttle body, spray easy start in and turn the key? Car immediately cranks and starts as normal!... I'm stumped... I spoke to an auto electrician about whether it was an immobilisor issue (Clifford) — he said he didn't think so because fuel pump is working fine and so is the ignition switch when using easy start. Before this issue happened, I do recall having trouble once trying to get in to the car with the fob, it not unlocking or responding to me trying to unlock it for a couple of attempts and then it would be fine. Also, I'd hear the odd clicking from what sounded like the sunroof unit when driving the first 5 minutes or so, like a relay sound, on and off. I'm not sure if rain water could be an issue as I've had that problem of it coming through the passenger side windscreen and sitting in rear foot well on that side. Also, in the couple of days before the car stopped starting completely, I remember it doing the same thing intermitently; I'd drive the car to the shop, jump back in the car to leave and turn the key, and nothing! Turn the key again and it would crank and start as normal. It may have done this 2 or 3 times the week prior to it dying completely.
  9. Thanks — Nothing happens at all when turning the key, it doesn't crank, the engine doesn't turn.
  10. Thanks for the reply — the car won't crank at all unless easy starter or fuel is fed in to the engine, at which point I do believe rpms show on the tacho when cranking.
  11. Hi guys Looking to sell my 2.0 16v Corrado due to losing patience trying to find the reason as to why it won't start. I'm not mechanically minded so am hoping it can go to someone that is, an enthusiast, who can get it running again. I've owned the car since April 2016 and, up until it's current issue, has been fantastic to own and run. It has been my only car in this period, used daily for a couple of years and, more recently, used only weekly as I work permanently from home. Also taken multiple trips in it away to Portsmouth, Brighton, Wales etc. A joy to drive. RUNNING PROBLEM Fuel is not getting from the metering head unit to the injectors. After changing the pump and realising then it wasn't the problem, I decided to pick up and fit a second-hand metering unit replacement, this has had no effect. I then decided to replace the ECU, again found second-hand, still no luck. The engine will run on easy-start fine, if fuel is fed in to the engine, it runs as normal but, for whatever reason, fuel is not getting in otherwise. CAR DETAILS VW Corrado 2.0 16v (9A) 1995 M reg 123,000 miles MOT November '22 FSH Sherry Pearl STUFF THAT WORKS Both fog lamps Sunroof (most of the time) Electric spoiler (at speed and via dash switch) Electric mirrors Electric windows STUFF THAT DOESN'T See 'running problem' above Heater only works on two settings (2 & 4) Handbrake works fine but could do with having two new bolts installed, as one sheared off a year or so ago and I've done a temporary job so that it works. The car is situated in Woking, Surrey and is at the garage there where it's been since January. Until I get down there to take new pics I've attached some here that are a couple of years old but serves the purpose of showcasing it. Thanks for reading, willing to listen to offers.
  12. Thanks for the responses — managed to get a replacement ECU but no luck once changed — for whatever reason fuel is not getting from the metering heads to the injectors. The only thing I and the garage can think of is to find another metering head unit online and replace it for a second time (the assumption being that the 'working' replacement was not in working order). Otherwise, I'm stumped... Loosing patience... Is anyone interested in buying it?!
  13. Thanks guys. If the problem was indeed the ECU, is there a way of disabling the immobilisor/bypassing it somehow temporarily (or permanently even if that means removing it altogether at a later date) for the sole purpose of replacing the ECU so as to get the car running?
  14. Hi guys Any help much appreciated. I'm still having trouble getting my 2.0 16v to start. My local garage is out of ideas and so am I it seems... fuel pump is working and the metering unit is receiving fuel, but that's as far as it gets. I initially replaced the fuel pump (new from VW Heritage) and metering unit (eBay, advertised as in working condition) when I thought that these may have been the culprit, to no avail. My garage has mentioned the possibility of an issue with either the immobilisor or ECU. I also had a chat with a local auto electrician who said that, because the fuel pump is running and that the car DOES start when sprayed with Easy Starter, the immobilisor is probably fine but did cite the ECU as a potential problem. I know that the ECUs sit below the windscreen and are vulnerable to the elements, corrosion etc so my next port of call is to pick one up from eBay, swap it out and hope for the best. Only negative there is that the mechanic working on my car DOESN'T think it's the ECU and think's it's more likely a mechanical issue, and that maybe the eBay metering unit I sent him was possibly ALSO faulty. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
  15. Thanks for this, we ending up replacing the metering unit to no avail... the car still doesn't want to start although IT WILL start if some of that fuel-in-a-can stuff is sprayed directly in to the throttle body... any ideas? I'm stumped!
  16. Hi guys I've got a fuel problem — garage thinks is possibly with the metering unit — fuel pump working fine and feeding to the unit ok, but nothing coming out of it — any idea if a metering unit can be sourced, if it proves to be the problem? Any advice appreciated! Thanks
  17. Hello all, Does anyone have a fuse box diagram for the 2.0 16v 9A model? All I can find is the VR6. Cheers.
  18. Cheers for the reply. Pretty sure now the part number I need for the 4-pin fuel guage sender unit is '191 919 051 ba' — can't find any of these anywhere online... Anyone got one lying around?!...
  19. Hi guys, My fuel gauge has recently died, it gave some bouncy readings for a while but has now completely gone — I'm looking for a replacement part which I think is the float-sender-thingy that sits in the tank — anyone know where I can get one? Part number I think is 191-919-051/G (3 pin) or 191-919-051/ba (4 pin) — any advice or help on this greatly appreciated. I've got an M reg 2.0 16v. Thanks.
  20. Cheers Dox, I think you're right. Immobilisor, spoiler, sunroof and glove box bulb use it. The latter had blown and was the culprit. All's now well, thanks.
  21. Hi guys I've recently had a problem of my car cutting out immediately after it being started. This happened the same day as my spoiler and sunroof stopped working. On closer inspection I found that one of my fuses had blown (it was a 15amp one, blue, 16th in from the left in pic). On replacing it the car started fine and I was on my merry way. Although, once home I've got the same issue and I can see that this same fuse has blown. My questions are: • Does anyone know what this fuse is for and what may have caused it to blow? • Does anyone have a fuse diagram for the 2.0 16v so that I can inspect it? • Is the spoiler/sunroof issue linked with the car cutting out and this fuse being blown? • Can anyone educate me as to what the relays do vs fuses? Thanks so much in advance!
  22. Cheers — helpful. Loosening that top bolt and then rotating the large hex on the left hand side does enable the toothed wheel to turn but only in a stationary position, it won't actually slide up or down the toothed arm. Loosening the bolt beneath it, that I also marked with an arrow in the pic, doesn't help either. There's another bolt under this one which again holds the alternator on but I don't know if its just these two that do. The belts aren't old and can't be twisted more than 90 degrees so I don't think they need replacing. In any case, the car's going in to the garage next week for another job so perhaps I'll leave this seemingly simple one to someone who actually knows what they're doing... just, the thought of driving around quietly in the meantime would have been nice!
  23. Cheers — I've probably misunderstood, but I loosened lock nut on the toothed bracket and what I thought was the bolt on the alternator bracket — despite the toothed wheel now being able to turn, I couldn't get it to actually move either forwards or backwards, I'm obviously doing something wrong...
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