FrankyEight

Hi guys Can anyone give me any pointers on how to tighten/loosen my aux belt on my 2.0 16v? Squealing has got worse recently and especially bad now under heavy load (lights/fan etc). Does this mean it's too loose or tight? There seems to be some sort of toothed bracket where it can be adjusted back and forth. Advice appreciated!

Someone... anyone...? :(

Hi guys A long shot but I'm looking for a fuel pump housing/casing for my '95 2.0 16v (9A). I believe this is the Kjet system. Please get in touch if anyone has one in a decent, non-leaking condition! Many thanks Leon

Cheers.

Thanks, do you know which particular 3M tape? There seems to be a few with different references that could do the job (4611, 5952, 4910 etc). Trims aren't new so I'll ensure surfaces and trims are clean etc. Cheers!

Hi guys, can anyone suggest the best tape to use to fix exterior door mouldings to my car? Thanks

Thanks —*no kids in the car but I do use the cigarette light to charge my phone. I disconnected the lighter but the fuse still shorts, presume this means that the lighter isn't at fault? At the time of the fuse going I was restarting the car quite a few times during journeys for a period as I had a running problem which meant it stalled at lights, junction etc, this has now been fixed with a clean of the idle valve, leaving me to wonder whether it might be the ignition switch failing due to all the restarts I was doing, as fendervg suggested. That's a worrying comment about the wiring! I use the car daily and it doesn't sit for more than a day or two without being used. I presume it's safe!

Really appreciate this — could be ignition switch as*I was having a running issue when the fuse actually went, so was constantly restarting the car during journeys when it stalled (now fixed with cleaning of ISV). Thanks for the advice, will look at ignition switch before prizing out the instrument panel!

Hi guys A 15 amp keeps shorting in my 2.0 16v —*It's the second or third one in from the right and I believe it's for the interior lights, sunroof, cigarette lighter and instrument panel clock (clock or mileage doesn't show when key is not in ignition. Once it is, mileage and trip computer function as normal but still no clock). I've taken the cigarette lighter out but fuse still shorts. Someone on the Facebook forum suggested that a resister has gone on the circuit board that sits in the instrument panel, basically a new one needs to be soldered in. Does this sound like it might be the culprit? I'm a bit of a novice so if there is a tutorial on actually getting the instrument panel out and getting access to the circuit board that would be great!? Many thanks for your advice in advance.

Think I've found an adapter!

Thanks. Regarding VAG-COM, I might buy a generic reader from eBay or somewhere. They all seem to be SCART. Do I need a 4-pin adapter for this or do I need a specific 4-pin Reader? Cheers again!

Thanks — post is really interesting and sounds just like my issue — do you know where the temperature sensor for the engine management system is located exactly so I can check and replace if necessary? Thanks for your patience...

Thanks for your reply dr_mat — I don't have access to VAG-COm or the other diags tools... do general garages have this equipment or should I find a VW specialist who does? I'm in Surrey. Cheers!

Hi guys I've got a '94 2.0 16v which has the following issue; once the car get's up to temperature, the idle rises from normal (750rpm ish) to 1000rpm and stays there until I 'reset' it by switching off engine and back on again. Even then, after a few minutes of driving it'll rise back up to 1000rpm. I've been told this might be the ISV (idle stabilisation valve?. If so, could someone advise how I remove this and clean it and refit (I'm clearly a novice!). Also, I've been reading that it may be the temperature switch or thermostat? I'm not sure of the difference, again some advice on what the difference is and how they can be replaced would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance!

Thanks, guys. I'm going to monitor the fan situation as it seems ok the last couple of days. Regarding the idle issue, it's not lumpy, it's just as if, once the temperature has reached normal level, my revs rise to 1000rpm as if I'm starting from a cold start again. I'm thinking about changing the thermostat... Can anyone tell me the best place to find one for my 9a? Cheers!

Hi guys, As title, my fan stays on long after I've switched the engine off. Any ideas? In a separate issue, my car is also high idling (1000rpm)once it gets to normal temperature. Only when I switch the engine off and back on again does it 'reset' bakc to normal (750rpm) idle. Could these issues be linked? Temperature switch or something? Many thanks, it's a 95 9A.

Hi all, An incompetent driver has driven in to my nearside front wing and dented/scratched the whole thing up — leaving me to fit the bill. As funds are currently limited I wanted to see if I could take the wing off myself and try and push some of these dents out. Can anyone point me in the direction of a tutorial or something similar to help me do this? Might be too complicated for me but though I'd ask first... Thanks

Anyone around the Surrey, Hampshire or London area would be great!

Hi all, I'm looking for a near-side front wing for my '95 Corrado if anyone knows where I could find one. Thanks so much.

Thanks for the comments. Coolant is still pink. I've actually just taken the car out on a 20 mile journey and, on normal driving, the temperature actually fluctuates between 90-100 which I guess is normal. It's only when idling/sitting in traffic when it rises and sits at 110. But, as you said, the bay doesn't seem particularly hot.

Thought I'd try and conclude this post in case others have similar experiences. Picked the car up from the garage today. No leak, radiator is good and thermostat working as it should. As the fan was noisy and apparently smelt a bit like burning they replaced the fan motor and fan. Since then, drove it back and let it run idle for a while at my house. The water still eventually sits on 109/110 but doesn't move from there (didn't before). However this time I don't hear the fan and if its now spinning at a higher speed because of the higher temperature, its so quiet I can't tell the difference. So, either my car just runs with a water temperature of 109/110 and that's normal, or my dash is giving me a higher reading than is true! Perplexing. There are no other indications to suggest there's anything wrong apart from this high reading... I guess I'll just wait and see...

Checked both hoses after getting the car up to temperature and they're both hot. I guess the water pump is the culprit then. After spending nearly £700 on repair work to get it through its MOT 2 weeks ago, I cannot wait to go back and see how much this is all going to cost... PS Shouldn't my temperature light come on on the dash if my car is overheating? And at what temperature does the water need to be, before the dash light comes on?

Great, thanks. I'll take a look.

Hi guys, Only just seen your replies but have just started the car and let it run on idle for a while. Sure enough, after 25-30 minutes the oil temperature reaches 116 and the water finally hits 110 at which point the quick spin fan kicks in and the car sounds like its going to take off. As you've guys have speculated, I'm not sure I'm actually losing water, so therefore wonder if its a circulation issue. I'm afraid cars isn't my first language so I'm not sure I know what I'm doing with regards checking hoses and temperature/thermostat switches etc. I've got it booked in at the garage on Friday so will relay this info on to them and hope its not a costly water pump job! Thanks

Hi guys, I've a '95 2.0 16v which has recently developed an overheating problem. Over a 20-30 minute drive from cold, the water temperature rises as normal and the fan kicks in as it should. However the temperature keeps rising until around 110 degrees centigrade when the fan goes into overdrive, spinning at its quickest setting, very loud. My warning water temperature light on the dash does NOT come on. Can anyone advise what this might be? I first noticed this issue yesterday morning and topped up the water last night (as it may have been low, difficult to see the max/min level through my expansion tank) left the car overnight and test drove the car just now, same issue. Any help very much appreciated.