92DubyaPB

Got a chance to go digging into my car today. The crank sensor is fine (for now at least). However the wiring for my hall sensor is pretty ghetto and in poor condition, so I'll start with that. Anyone know a good place online where I can find a harness?? I'm going to local parts store electronic cleaner and carb/intake cleaner for isv and throttle body, hopfully that will keep the code away. Thanks for any input. Really want to get her going before snow is gone!

Engine codes were 00515, 00518, and 00513 which came up as no signal crank sensor. I don't know what the others are exactly. In November crank tested 538ohms, don't know if that's an indicator that it's on the way out or not. When I get an opportunity I will test again, but I've been busy, hopfully soon

Icm and coil are both new

Hey everyone, so my 1992 vr6 died randomly while driving, barely got it going to get it home (idk how). Seems to have fuel but no spark, I plugged into vagcom there were 3 codes, one crank no signal which I know is normal. One other was hall sensor which I know is good, the last one is unknown but I have number. I cleared them out and started rough but cleared out and died 10seconds later and no start again. Only code was crank no signal upon recheck. Any suggestions? Coil is new, distributor relatively new, new temp sensor (blue), maf tested good, crank sensor tested good 2 months ago but haven't checked again, ground strap (earth strap) is hooked to icm from block, is that normal? Only thing I can think is crank sensor, but I'd figured to check before spending 200+ for a new one

Brand new distributor, so hall sensor also brand new. I have new plugs and leads to go in from ngk just haven't gotten to it yet. I just thought it was weird that it would flip symptoms like that being pre variable intake

When I unplug maf the engine dies, which is usually an indication it works right? There's no one near me with vag com that's willing to help, everyone where I am sucks

Hey everyone, my 92 vr6 seems to loose power at 4k rpm. It pulls hard until 4k then suddenly fells like a 4cyl until about 5k and picks back up again. Also less often but occasionally it's backwards. As in no pull until 4k then takes off. Only thing I can think of is clean the intake system with seafoam. Any other ideas?

Yea my thoughts exactly haha now just need to chase the mouse out of the cabin

I kept searching in other places on the Internet and found where the earth strap went and reattached it, and it started up, haven't done a long test yet. Still have to put some things together. Thanks for all the help though

Got a ecu ending in M read would work replacing P. Still didn't fix issue! Still a ******* to start and doesn't stay running long. Smell fuel but no spark/ signal. I'm going to try using electrical cleaner on big round plug and plug for ecu. Is there any other suggestions or anyone that's had this issue? And solved it?

Plugged in new ignition switch and nothing, going to order ecu off ebay

Yea when I get a chance I'll pop it in and try it. I've looked around and found that there's a bunch of them I can use in mine, just the letters are different, numbers are same. Thanks for all the help I'll be sure to post results

Yea, i have one just haven't put it in yet, I'm having a hard time finding an ecu so I guess I'll try that in the meantime. My ecu number is 021906258p, it's a 1992 vr6 2.8 manual transmission, are there any other part numbers that would work?

Thanks, I replaced my whole dizzy, cap and all, it wasn't too killer on price so I figured it wouldn't hurt

Intermittent but it just kind of chooses when it wants to start or not and it's never same amount of time. Could be 1 second could be 20 min, but it is becoming harder and harder to start. I'm not sure if there is an American equivalent but I do have a few salvage yards around where I live. I'll go around and see what I can find

What did it look like burnt out?? It's still doing the same thing and I just want this thing running. Also where did you get yours from? I gotta get a new one or mine rebuilt. the only other thing I can think of is cam sensor, but I thought that would cut fuel and spark, no?

Ok, picking up new dizzy this afternoon, comes with new rotor and cap too. I haven't opened up the ecu yet and was told no chip was ever in it, but I don't trust the guy I got it from. Where was it looking burnt out? And is it just a discoloration, or actually fried? Just trying to get info in case it still gives me issues. I appreciate the help

Ok so I hooked everything back up today, with jump box, no start, put battery charger with 12v 250amp jump feature and cranked for 10-15 sec and bam started up. It ran on its own power about 20 min with no issues until stalled. Ithe restarted for a second and then nothing after. About 180F coolant temp, 170F oil temp. I've heard hall sensors go bad cause of the engine heat? Is that true? I'm about to get distributor tomorrow unless suggested otherwise.

Yes, I have brand new icm or Amp whichever you prefer, and msd blaster 3. Started last night to make sure it was wired right and it was and ran great till it died 10 min in, then nothing. Put other new parts in today then tried, still nothing. That's when I started testing what I knew I could again and got the results above. Both new relays were put in before I ordered everything else

Yes the earth strap, I remounted it as I could not find where it went. I also forgot to mention it ran for about 10 min last night before no restart but o2 was not in yet. I also didn't think 1992 dizzy had immobilizer. I was thinking maybe hall sender since it has fuel? But I don't know how to test it. Ecu is original so maybe that's it but my local vw people are unwilling to help it seems. Is there a way to test without swapping it? It seems the coil is not getting the signal to start. I'm still searching for other threads and opinions but still no luck. Thanks for the reply though. I'm in Hudson Valley ny USA if anybody on here is near. Battery and ecu unplugged for the night will try again tomorrow

Oh it's a 1992 if that matters

Hi all, as title says I have fuel but no spark. Car has 164k on it. I can smell fuel and I've grounded a plug off the main lead and nothing. List of new parts, ignition coil, temp sensor, o2 sensor, spark leads, fuel relay and ecu relay. I've cleaned crank sensor and when it was running maf seemed to test good. Crank sensor 538 ohms, coil has 11.3 or 11.8v I don't remember. There was a block ground that fell off the body, bolt still in ground, just hanging. I couldnt find its home but i grounded it somewhere else. I apologize if this exists somewhere I can only find coil pack threads. I'm banging my head against a wall here, I'm lost and don't what to check next. I've had the car 3 weeks and it ran for 1 of them. Any help appreciated.

Yea, just ordered the Bosch it was only $15 more, it'll be here quicker too

Haha, yea meant to put lambda in parentheses. I didn't realize they made them either, which is why I asked, but if majority use bosch I'll probably go with that. Unless my bank account says otherwise 😂

Have you checked your o2 sensor? Although I'm new to Corrados I'm pretty sure it effects air/fuel ratio which could cause running issues. Does it clear up at high rpms? Don't hold me to this but I've heard ecus will ignore certain readings at high rpm. Someone correct me if thats wrong for these cars