Tom_VR6

the pics are from my VR6 :roll: :)

Its a bit of a pain - the drive seems OK though so I am going to keep my eye on it and see how it goes.

Thanks mate, appreciate the input - at least now I know my suspension wont be shooting through the bonnet or anything silly like that! :mrgreen: Would be good to know why it does that though if anyone knows?

Just fitted my FK Koningsport coilovers and the front ones dont seem to be siting quite right. I got new identical two peace top mounts as the ones that where on there. I fitted the small bearing onto the front coilovers (while in the spring compressor) then the nut then the big rubber mount and put them in and fitted the top bit under the bonnet and then the nut BUT there seems to be this gap between the top part and the body - is this right?

Just noticed the pipes on the heater matrix are the wrong way round - would this make a difference?

and I dont have a bypass valve on mine so presume its part of the heater matrix - that is new. Back to square one - any more ideas anyone?

I can now tell you its not the water pump - took it out and it spins nicely and all the fins are there.

No heat at all Im afraid. Where is this valve - might just go and check it anyway?

Any idea how I could test this? Any other symptoms I should look out for? I could try the water pump from the old engine if I could diagnose the problem.

Im not getting any hot air in the car - not that I need it with this great weather we have been having but still, its the principle. Ive read all the threads I could find on heater matrix, bleeding water system and thermostats, so far I have: - Tested the thermostat: a OK - Replaced the thermostat housing that joins to the block as it was cracked - New heater matrix has been fitted as the old one leaked - Filled the water up once from the expansion tank -> FLUSH -> and then from the top hose of the rad - Ran the engine until the fans kicked in and squeezed all the pipes to try and clear any air lock till my hands were red All the hoses are getting hot BUT the one going up to the heater matrix from the engine might just be full of hot air and not water - not 100%. Temps seem to be rising as they should and all the rest seems to be as it should. All of this came about after replacing the engine. New engine running and sounding great, most importantly no smoking + compression test came back good. Any ideas would be MUCH appreciated as I feel I have done all I can think of. Thanks!

I wonder if you could try and get a stronger bulb (without melting the plastic that is)?

Forget about the bad English, @yahoo email address (might as well be @im_a_scammer) and the most likely fake name, I woudnt sell my car on the pure principle of them clearly not knowing anything about it - "let me know maybe it using dessle or petrol".

mods could you please change the title to "how do you NOT do this ?"! :lol: i do think its a bit OTT but totally a matter of taste as always.

I have got to say around where i live there are a fair few speed humps and some of them are tottaly uncalled for. If only the local cauncil used all the money and effort towards getting rid of the frikin' pot holes the size of great canyon instead of building all these speed humps people might actualy get somewhere in their cars without buckling their wheels or ripping their exhaust off clean. I mean, how can you possibly justify spending money on building speed humps on a road full of pot holes? If it was difficult to go down that road before than it is close to impossible now unless you have a 4x4 (and dont get me started on them!), you might as well close the road all together.

check this stuff out http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... =2&doy=6m4 ott?

Henny - that was so quck by the time i clicked "Click here to view your post" your response was there, madness!!! :shocked!: That sounds sensible, what sort of size would i need? I think i heard somewhere if you go too big then you get power loss or something? Also, where is the best most accessable place to hide the 2 crossover boxes? Im sure it will be obvious once im doing it but good suggestions would be much appriciated.

Im getting together bits and peaces for when i take my dash out (again), so far i have the brand new heater controls, heater cables, just ordered some Diamond S500s 5.25 components for the front and also might get some new gauges from dubdesign in US. One other thing i wanted to do is get some very high quality speaker cable to run from the doors and the tweeters but i dont really know enough about cables to make a decision on this. I know I want it to be oxygen free and maybe gold plated (is it worth it?) but have no idea how big it should be (1.5mm,2mm,2.5mm etc.), what materials are best and where to get it from. Any suggestions on this? The idea is to build the system slowly so the components would run straight off the HU but eventually be running off an amp.

stormseeker that is very helpfull, muchos gracias for that!!!!

Guy, thanx for the quick reply. Always though that was a bit of a scam by the ROSS-TECH guys! :cuckoo:

Wasnt really sure where to put this, please feel free to move this topic someplace else if it fits better under a different heading. :wink: As far as I understand all Corrado VR6's are ODB1 but the ones after some point in '93 come with the ODB2 connectors. Surely these have the same 4 wires going to them as the ODB1 plugs? And if that is the case doesnt it mean that it should be quite easy to change from ODB1 to ODB2 style connector? What I am trying to get at is that it is goto be cheaper to change the plug then pay the odd £35 to the ROSS-TECH guys or similler for an extra cable which converts ODB1 to ODB2!

Hey peeps! Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on any bits i should be getting / fitting at the same time as i get my konies on? ps. a bit off topic but is £150 + vat really the cheapest i can get late heater controls for (quated by the stealer). :shock:

Check out these guys, http://www.mjinteriors.co.uk/Index.htm Have seen some of their work on the forum and it looked good, it was a while ago though so cant really remeber where.

Rpmayne, how would you know if you need to 0do any work on the bottom end?

if i remeber correclty there are 4 fat plasticy bolts around the sides of the centre consolse that you have to undo. as the centre consolse comes out in 2 parts there is also a little screw under the rear ash tray that you need to undo. from memory i think that is all ... mind you the one on my C was broken so it just came out. :cry: Tom

true but with mean looks like that half the people wont even bother trying to take it. :evil: its like a bmw 318 with all the looks of an M3, you just wouldnt go there unless you knew it was a 318. Anyway, lets be real, this kind of C is more of a show car then a track car. 8)