mbradbrook

Ok - thanks. I'll give my local branch a ring as well. Matt

Hi Dox, Can this be used in the GSF ebay store as well? Need a fuel accumulator which is £416.86 on the GSF website and £217.20 in their ebay store. Thanks Matt

Hi there, Does the moulding with the end pieces attached for £170 come with the 3M double sided tape? If not what width tape would you recommend? Cheers Matt

Hi there, I had a sensor go on my vr6 and used the Meyle sensor from vwspares.co.uk for £12.60 each. Sorted my car and have been fine for 4 years. Cheers Matt

Plugs were replaced not that long ago with genuine vw plugs. I took them out last time i had the problem and they all looked ok. Might be worth a try though with the ngk plugs recommended on this forum.

Hi all, Just taken my vr6 out after being laid up over winter. The car started ok but when accelerating from a lowish speed in the higher gears the engine stutters. I seem to remember this happened last year and a fresh tank of fuel cured it. I have 3/4 tank left over from last summer so does old fuel seem to be a feasable cause? The car had new ht leads and fuel filter last year and the coil pack is quite new. I took the car out for a 50 mile drive on mixed roads and the stutter is still there. Any advice would be really appreciated! Matt

Afternoon all. Took my VR6 out for a drive today after it had been laid up over winter. I noticed that when accelerating hard there was a slight stutter. The coil pack was changed about 500 miles ago so I don't think it is that. I've just ordered some blue igniter ht leads to see if this fixes the problem. I noticed on the C&R website that it says the Blue Igniter leads do not need the spark plug ferrules. I've just taken a plug out of mine and noticed that the end of the spark plug are not threaded and have a ferrule that is part of the plug and can not be unscrewed (they are VW plugs). Can someone confirm that the the Blue Igniter leads are a direct replacement for VW ones? Cheers Matt

VW Spares sell the Beru ones. I fitted one to my VR6 and it has been fine for the past 5 years: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_electrical.php Matt

Hi there, Didn't manage to source an original handle but ordered a Porsche 911 handle from the link above which looks very similar. Matt

The slot on the inside has split. I've searched on the forum and found a link to a Porsche handle that looks identical: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-PORSCHE-911-964-993-924-944-928-Seat-Release-Knob-Set-Handles-Clamps-/251058790895?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a744521ef I'll contact the seller to see what the part number is. Matt

Evening all, My 1995 corrado is fitted with leather electric Recaro seats. The seat tilt lever on the inner side of the drivers seat has broken. The part number written on the inside of the handle is 0960000800. I've looked on Etka but it does not find it. If i go to the dealer do you think they will be able to find it? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks Matt

Just seen that your car is now on sale for 14k - Good on you! This sort of thing can only help raise the profile and values of the corrado. Best of luck mate!

Definitely worth more than 5k. VR6s with low mileage, in excellent condition are very rare. I'd put it up for 7-8k and be prepared for a bit of a wait but someone who wants something a little special will be prepared to spend that much. There is plenty of tat out there for 3.5k and your car will be worth far more than 1500 extra. Matt

Personally i would take my standard VR with leather, electric heated recaros, aircon and headlight washers over any similar condition storm. As everyone else has mentioned - condition is the most important thing when buying. It is such a shame that VW didn't make more of an effort with the storm - eg VSR and improved suspension etc - then i think it would be worth paying a premium. Standard vw leather, storm badges, painted grill and wheels as fitted to many 8v mk3 Golf gtis doesn't do it for me. :D Matt

Hi there, I need some help with my mk2 Golf 16v. I've just bought a set of electric mirrors complete with loom and switch but the drivers mirror is missing a crucial plastic rack - see photo below: I was told that the Corrado wing mirrors use the same mootor assembly. I've checked my VR6 and sure enought it has the same plastic rack that clips on. Does anyone have an old motor assembly with this part? All i need is the pastic rack so it does not matter if the rest of the wing mirror is knackered. Thanks in advance! Matt

I use the Ctek charger (XS3600) for my corrado and 16v GTI. Been using them for the past 4 years with no problems and the cars always start on the button. They always keep the battery topped up and you can see the charger switching between trickle and maintenance charging (2 LEDs). They also come with a permanent conector to fit to the battery terminals so that you don't have to use crocodile clips. Would highly recommend them. Matt

All done now. Flushed the system and topped up with new G12+. Taken it for a drive and topped it up again. I don't think i managed to get all the old G11 out as the pink G12+ has now turned a puple colour - shame really as the tank looked all clean with the pink G12+ before i drove it.. I guess this is ok though. The old coolant was a clean blue colour so i don't think there is any bad corrosion. Also had the aircon topped up and it is now icy cold!

:clap: Right! Just spent the last hour remving the bottom radiator hose! I used a set of draper hose clip pliers - the ones with the bike cable that you put over the spring clips and then squeeze the handles and locks in position. By removing the battery and unplugging the sensor of the rad i was just able to wiggle the hose free. My hands are cut to shreds and i've got rust in my eyes so i'm going to leave it draining over night and then flush it in the morning. The coolant looks pretty clean. I've got 3 bottles of G12+ but i think probably 2 will be enough. The bottom rad hose is flattened where the spring clip was but i presume that this will be ok if i use a screw jubilee clip. Got to say it that every job on the Corrado seems to be hard work - even the battery was a pig to free from it's padded jacket! Cheers Matt

Thanks for the reply. I tried having a look at the drain plug but it is so high up above the AC compressor that it is hard to make out. Can you confirm what head is on the drain plug (slot / hex etc) - i've tried looking on ETKA but it says that the drain plug and oring are not recognised. Cheers Matt

Hi there, Just wanted to resurrect this old thread. I never got round to changing the coolant last year but i have a week off next week and want to do some jobs on my Corrado and mk2 Golf GTI 16v. I've had another look at the coolant hoses this morning and it does look very tight. There is very little slack in the aircon hoses so i'm going to struggle to move them aside to get to the lower rad hose. I've got good access to where the lower hose connects to the thermostat housing so was wondering about disconnecting this end. I don't think i'll be able to bend the hose down to drain it as there is a hard plastic shroud around the hose. How about pushing a length of thin hose down the rad hose and then syphoning the coolant through this? What do you think? Is there an easier way? This would be a 5 minute job on my Golf! Cheers Matt

I need to get some new rear lights for my 95 VR6. I have looked on Ebay and the forsale section forum but the lights all seem to have bright orange indicators. I'm pretty sure that mine are standard (Hella) but the indicators look slightly smoked. Can anyone confirm whether different lights were fitted to the later Corrados? Thanks Matt

Hi there, I think it is about time that i changed the coolant on my VR6 to G12+. It is still running G11 and i'm not sure when it was last changed. I've been reading up on the forums about changing it (remove bottom radiator hose to drain and then fill via the top hose). The problem is that my car has got aircon and access to the bottom hose is very restricted due to the a/c pipework and i can't get to the drain plug because the a/c compressor is in the way! Has anyone got any tips for removing the bottom hose? I was thinking that maybe it will be easier if i remove the battery but even so the a/c pipes are still in the way. Also is it worth changing the top and bottom radiator hoses or do they usually reseal ok with a jubilee clip? Thanks in advance Matt

Started the car from stone cold this morning and it started on first turn of the key! It only hunts when it is fully warmed up by about +/- 100rpm. It has a brand new ISV on it so that should be ok. I suspect that the mixture needs adjusting first of all which i presume means a trip to the garage. I'm not sure what you mean about the sensor near the oil filler - there isn't one (its a 1.8 KR engine). Thanks for all your help - i'm just glad it starts properly now! :D

Hi there - just a bit of an update for you. I've just checked the timing and i had to turn the dizzy clockwise about 5mm before the markers all lined up. I think that this has retarded the ignition. The idle has now risen so i have turned this back down with the idle screw. I have noticed that the idle now hunts a bit now though - what would cause this? I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning to try starting it from cold - hopefully this may have fixed it but i don't want to speak too soon! Cheers Matt

All good stuff - thanks for the quick response. I've just bought a timing light so i'll give that a go. Quick question - which plug lead do i connect the inductive pick up to when using the timing light? The second HT lead has got an orange clip on it - what does this mean?