yellowslc

Hey Mates.... Looooooooong time since I've been on here. Work is crazy busy though I've made a bit of progress on my own corrado. For those who don't know... 90 nugget yellow G60 converted to obd2 vr6 back in 1998.. together and apart a few times.. resprayed ferrari fly yellow back in 2000.. I gave up on the whole showcar bit back a year ago and decided a purpose built track car was the best route for me. Currently the car has a 14pt SCCA/Open Road chromeoly rollcage, fully triangulated/gussetted.. fuelsafe 17 gallon double urethane bladder fuel cell with bonded integral surge tank. Dutchdub built mk3 passat vr6 rear beam, 25mm swaybar, 280x22 rotors w/TTQ rear calipers, stoptech front brakes, new boot floor with bulkhead firebox to isolate the cell from the cabin (open road requirement, welded steel), cobra suzuka kevlar seats. The chassis is DONE, seam sealer completed.. epoxy primer.. etc. etc.. It currently awaits my visit to install the mockup engine and fabricated engine bits. 12v vr6 with Ross 82mm FI pistons (ceramic/dry film coated), manley 4340 chromeoly rods, full arp hardware, Ferrea superalloy valvetrain with Ti retainers/locks, and special alloy valvesprings (FI specification setup... fourseasonstuning.com hooked it up).. R32 gearbox, tilton/clutchmasters twin disk clutch. Racecraft fabrication 6:1 equal length SS turbo manifold, velocity stacked intake (you'll have to wait until PVW features the car to see this masterpiece).. blah blah blah. What is next? Verify dimensions for the IC/Rad/Fans/Boost tubes and fit the nose of the car back on. DSS is doing the axles as the car is currently 30 minutes from their shop in NC. My current project: Testing of the new haldex controller that I've been working on. Short list of specs/features: 1. Professionally built hardware to military specification. Reliability is key. In my eyes it's worth every penny of the cost. 2. Active control of the haldex coupling. Haldex designed this system to act and react, why bother doing anything else? Why create unsafe conditions on the roadcourse? Inputs: Throttle Position Mass Air Pressure (boost/vacuum) Wheel Speed Vehicle Speed Diff fluid temperature Engine RPM MAF CAN buss communication is OPTIONAL - allows for use in newer cars or ones using the oem ECU. (many variables with this, contact to discuss further) 3. Fully mapable software- unfortunately this is not available to the public for multiple reasons. These units are flash loadable to the customers requirements. This prevents changes which may cause unsafe conditions. 4. Beta Testing. My 2003 audi TT Quattro and an HPA FT450 R32 will be used extensively to fine tune all programs. In addition, another TT setup for rally competition will be doing testing on gravel, ice, snow for additional data. The beauty of this system is it's adjustability, this is also it's downside. I am looking for additional beta testers to hop on board. The oem haldex module does need to be modified. This can be performed by the end user or I will be happy to do them for no additional cost. I can only guarantee proper operation if I do the work. Phatty is chomping at the bit.. biggerbigben ? coxy? Robert

see my response in the other thread for what is involved.

I bought a prototype brake kit from eurospecsport which fitted 280mm vented disks to the rear. 1. remove your rear rotor and put it in a lathe. Turn down the entire friction surface to create a "hub". 2. Either source calipers from a TTQ/R32/or whatever else uses the 256mm vented rotors over there or machine wider openings in rear calipers to sit over the new vented rotors (this kit did just this with aluminum mk4 calipers). 3. Machine a bracket/plate to push the caliper carrier further away from the beam attachment points and install between the oem caliper carrier and the rear beam. You will set these tolerances based on which rotors you choose.. i.e. corrado 280mm, ttq 256mm, etc. Using the ttq/r32 calipers will delete having to machine the calipers and carriers. You now have a rear hub though it does still use the old wheel bearings. FYI, you gain approximately 9-10mm of outward spacing due to the nature of the assembly. You will also need a set of passat E-Brake cables as the calipers are further away from the axle. I may still have those photos. A friend purchased my rear axle/brake setup when i went all wheel drive.

Loss of traction in 3rd under boost = smooth gears. This is typical with higher hp fwd cars. You're awd now right? R

these are first rate quality.. I dont endorse much but these are deserving ;)

so that is where you've been hiding.. read your email paul

Greetings, Jim has surfaced. I am not at liberty to say what the cause was but you all would fully understand. He will be taking care of all outstanding orders (either refunding the money or sending product). In the future, I am offering to handle all turn2 orders for you guys. Robert

4cyl and 6cyl flywheels are not the same. G60 is 228mm clutch yet 6 bolt flywheel. vr6 is 228mm clutch (better disk and PP) but 10bolt flywheel. Unsure what the 1.8T's use. R

must have a pair of them.. PM me with a total shipped to the states

shoot me a PM if you want killer pricing on JE pistons. :D

you'll need to install a brass 3/4" freeze plug in the smog pump hole.

Come on B.. put some LSB rado pics up.. nah.. tease them with silver first.. These guys actually appreciate our work. R

FYI USPS and customs are hammering a lot of parcels coming over these days. Rates have gone up as well. I actually spoke to Jim today as I've been unable to find him lately. He had some family health issues to deal with. R

I would suspect an improper hyd system bleed first. If you do not depress the brake pedal 1" during the bleeding process, you are not evacuating the fluid in the main chamber of the master cylinder. This is where 90% of the contaminents reside. If you do not flush your system regularly and then flush with clean fluid you run into issues as well. Over time the moisture in the system attacks the MC seals. As stated prior, the contaminents will collect around the main chamber seals of the MC. Flushing these out with new fluid exposes the pits in the seals previously filled in with the debris. This equals "blowby" of the fluid and sub-par performance. Try re-bleeding first. R

Drop the subframe. The only other way is to remove the universal shaft from the column on the inside of the car. Install on the rack and then finally back to the steering column. Royal PITA. Subframe drop is cake. R