jonrb

My dad lent me a spark tester over the weekend. It's a sort of pair of plastic dividers with a metal nipple like a spark plug on one side and a point on the other. You connect one side to the lead and touch the other on the block and the spark jumps across the gap and you can increase the gap to find out how good the spark is. Great. Just what I need. Pity that the shrouds of the HT lead sockets on the VR6 are so long / deep that I can't plug this tester in to a lead. :( So I popped into my local auto factors and picked up one of these: (It's a Draper Ignition Tester. Cost under a fiver) I'll give it a go tonight and then I'll know if we have spark or not. That's assuming the shroud on the lead isn't too long for this too.

Hi Guy - long time no 'see'. Hope you're well. I've queried the Immobiliser module with VAG-COM and the key is authorised (see earlier post). Is that sufficient to rule this issue out? Cheers Jon

I got one of the plugs out using the spark plug tool in my trusty Halfrauds socket set. I managed to remove the near left-most (looking at the engine from the front of the car). Couldn't remove the left rear-most - I guess I need the infamous extra-long spark plug removal tool that Webbo sourced a while back. Anyway, I pulled out the plug lead, removed the plug, connected the plug back onto the lead and then got the missus to come out and crank it over. No spark. Not a glimmer even in pitch dark. So I guess it's not the fuel pump then. :)

Indeed. I was thinking the same thing. Unfortunately my wife didn't fancy coming out into the dark and turning the key for me. :roll: :( I'll talk nicely to her tomorrow and get her to do it in daylight (which isn't so good for me trying to see a spark, but there you go). Thanks for that Ady.

Yep, key is authorised. I connected to controller 25 (ie. the immobiliser) with VAG-COM and read group 001. I got: Authorised Start? 1 ECU Answers? 1 Key Condition OK? 1 No. of matched keys: N/A Also, there are no faults recorded for this controller. So that's that theory out of the window. :( I still have a duff front left ABS sensor, by the way, which I must fix before the MOT in 2 weeks time because it will fail on that. I'm assuming that this isn't a problem because it's been like that for about 6 months.

Tell me about it. I had a to replace the headlamp switch last year and it was £46 because it has to handle the entire electrical load of the headlamps. Also explains why the switch becomes so hot when the lights are in use.

Mine is a 1996N, so will have the reader coil. I was aware of this problem, but to be honest I hadn't considered it as a suspect as I assumed that if the key wasn't authorised it wouldn't even crank. I'll investigate further with VAG-COM tonight as suggested.

Ah, well, that's the thing. The spare keys were mislaid several years ago. I'm not pointing any fingers, but last time I saw them was in my wife's handbag. :wink: I was particularly annoyed as I'd only just spent out £35 on a new alarm plipper. :( So, unfortunately, that's not an option. I did query the immobiliser with VAG-COM and it reported no faults, but I can do it again tonight to be sure.

Following on from my previous post towards the end of last year where my engine start problems were traced to a faulty ISV, it seems that I have problems again :( In that post I said: "What I don't understand is why the car failed to start for so long and then suddenly it starts but shows all the signs of a duff ISV. I hope the ISV isn't masking another problem, like a failing ECU or something." Well, it seems like that could have been a little prophetic. I hopped in the car this morning, jut like I do every day as my Corrado is a daily driver, and it cranked but didn't fire. Same symptons as before - clicking relays but no start. :( I've read the fault codes with VAG-COM and have only one: VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N Control Module Part Number: 021 906 258 CP Component and/or Version: MOTOR 2,8L 6-Zyl. Software Coding: PMC 1 HS Work Shop Code: ########## 1 Fault Found: 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-00 - No Signal Looking at other threads on G28 it would seem that 'no signal' is inconclusive and probably bogus as the ignition was on but the engine not running when I got the code. I did clear it and tried reading the codes whilst cranking and the same error code returned. I haven't been able to investigate the problem further yet, but I'm hoping that we can rule out the ISV as it is virtually brand new. I was really hoping that the Corrado wouldn't let me down again so soon, especially since the TVR is at the garage with a cracked head at the moment. I don't need this. :( Other than going through the steps mentioned in other threads (check for spark and fuel, investigate fuel pump or ignition switch, etc.) can anyone offer any useful suggestions? Cheers Jon

"Physician, heal thyself" :D

Well, the new ISV arrived today (speedy delivery - top marks to GPC), I fitted it, and the car starts and runs like it always used to - sweet as a nut with that endearing slightly lumpy 6 cyclinder idle. A big "thank you" to everyone who helped and contributed, particularly dr_mat. :)

BTW, the Carb Cleaner didn't work :( I've just ordered an ISV from GPC for £115 + £7 carriage + VAT ECP wanted £136 + VAT for one, so £115 + VAT is probably a bargain (if you can call £115 for a motorised valve a bargain :roll:) I just hope it fixes the problem.

Quick question: I got some Carb Cleaner, undid the hoses and electrical connectors on the ISV, pulled it out of its rubber collar, and took it off to my garage where I stood it upright (electrical connector downwards) and squirted copious quantities of carb cleaner into the air in and air out holes. I repeated this several times throughout the day. It is too late at night to put it back on now, so it will have to be done tomorrow evening. However, before putting it back on I'd like to excercise it a bit by applying a voltage directly to the ISV in order to actuate the valve. The ISV has two connectors labelled 1 and 2. No indication as to which is +ve and which is -ve. Also no indication of the voltage and current to apply. Can anyone supply this information? If I don't get the info then I won't risk it and I'll just reassemble back on the car and hope for the best. Edit: Oh, and an 6mm allen key worked fine, and my VAG-COM cable arrived and works fine also. It can only read the ECU when the engine is running though, but can read the ABS with just the ignition on but the car not running. Strange.

Well, I popped into Halfords to get some Carburettor Cleaner this lunchtime. As I suspected, they didn't have any out on the shelves and when I asked the spotty little gimp of an assistant (sic) for it I swear he didn't even know what a carburettor was. So I guess it's off to Camberley Autofactors whenever I get the chance (or persuade the wife to go in for me). Sigh. I have WD40, 3-in-1 Penetrating Spray, Holts Wet-Start and Electrical Switch-Cleaning spray at home. Would any of those be suitable?

Not totally sure. My normal starting procedure is to give it a little gas. I would imagine this would have been no different on the morning that I discovered the fault, so the answer would be yes. I would imagine that I would have tried the old-fashioned cold start procedure of trying to coax it on the throttle too (I'm old enough to have had a car with a carburettor and a manual choke!). Subsequently to that, test starts whilst trying to diagnose the fault were by leaning into the car and turning the key, so in those instance there would have been no throttle applied. In the car's current state, it will start (albeit very lumpily) with or without throttle. Dr_mat will be able to confirm this. So an inconclusive answer to your question, I'm afraid.

I guess the older cable will be sufficient for my needs in that case. eBay, here I come. :)

Only cars up to 2002. For 2002 and onwards you need a different cable. Actually, that would be ok. I'm not planning on getting a post-2002 S4 and my wife's Cupra is a 1999 car. Duh! I am an idiot. :) Thanks guys - I'll just get the cheaper opto version and use VAG-COM release 311 in that case. Edit: Thanks for the info on the spline key, Kev. I'll gently use a 6mm allen key in that case.

I'm planning on getting VAG-COM capability in some shape, manner or form within the week. The current dilemma is whether to get the standard opto cable like Matt's for just reading the Corrado, or a PRO version so I can read my wife's Cupra as well and the S4 (or RS4 if funds allow) that I plan to replace the Corrado with one day. Either way, I hope to have some way of reading the values myself in the near future, so I can always do those tests myself. Blue Nothelle: Thanks for your kind offer. As soon as I've had a go at cleaning the ISV and seen what that does, I'll send you a PM about the weekend. Fingers crossed that cleaning it will solve the problem. :) What I don't understand is why the car failed to start for so long and then suddenly it starts but shows all the signs of a duff ISV. I hope the ISV isn't masking another problem, like a failing ECU or something. Anyway, I'll pop into Halfrauds tomorrow (I won't have a chance to today) and get some carb cleaner and a spline key to get the engine cover off as well. Does anybody know what size I need to get? I have a torx set, but Matt tells me this won't fit. Tools, eh? No matter how many you buy you're always without the one you need. :roll:

Public thanks to Matt for coming over with his trusty VAG-COM (fnarr - said "vag" ) I beleive I have got the stain out of the passenger seat of the TVR now. :twisted: I think I may have a go at cleaning the ISV as a first step - after all, I can't make it any worse, can I? I think you mentioned carb cleaner, Matt? I'll pop into my local Halfrauds in the week and get some. Thanks again Jon

New information. I went out to the car tonight to check on a) the no.16 fuse and b) the revs when trying to start, both in order to answer Guy's questions. No.16 fuse is fine, firstly. I turned the engine over - not a flicker on the rev counter - and then, suddenly, she caught and started! However, she sounded very lumpy and died almost immediately. So I hopped into the driver's seat and tried again, but this time giving it a bit of gas. She started again, and whilst I held the revs up with the accelerator she stayed running, but when taking my foot off and letting her idle she either immediately died or settled into a very lumpy idle at around 500rpm. So what does this point to? Idle Stabilisation Valve? Ignition / electrical problems still? The wind suddenly blowing through my beard from a different direction? I dunno. :(

It's a Sigma SG30 which last had a health check in October 2001.

The RAC man has just left after spending at least an hour trying to diagnose the problem. Unfortunately he failed to fix it, but we've eliminated quite a few things. 1. It's not the fuel pump relay because I replaced it. He also bridged it with no change. 2. The fuel pump is working because it primes when the relay is bridged and also he could feel the fuel rail pulsing when I turned the engine over. 3. The coil pack has voltage and the amplifier is powered. 4. The coil pack itself is unlikely to be at fault because I only replaced it last December. 5. The coil pack is not getting a switching signal though, and hence there is no spark on the HT leads. 6. The ECU relay (109) is probably not at fault because he bridged it and that didn't fix it. 7. The battery voltage was slightly down, but he attached a power booster and it didn't fix it. So given the above, it is very likely a fault somewhere in the ignition switching circuit. It could be the CAT 1 alarm / immobiliser. The immobiliser arms and disarms ok and when armed the engine won't turn over, and when disarmed it will, but it is possible that there is a loose connection in the wire(s) that interrupt the ignition circuit since CAT 1's have to immobilise in 3 places so it is possible it is only partially working. Not conclusive, but may be worth getting an alarm guy out to do an alarm health check at the least. Other than that, I think I'm looking at a home visit from an auto electrician. :( Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas before I do? Thanks in advance Jon

Thanks for the kind offer - very much appreciated. Unfortunately bridging the relay doesn't solve the problem ergo replacing the relay won't either. :( See my next post for more info....

Well, I checked the 109 relay last night when I got home. Unfortunately it looks virtually brand new - no corrosion, heat damage, or anything. :( I think I'm going to have to get the nice RAC man out on the 'At Home' (aka. Home Start) part of my policy and get him to diagnose it for me.

MIne used to come on after a while and switching the engine off and back on again used to clear it. But after a while it came on and stayed on. Now it comes on when the engine starts and never goes out. To be honest, I'm not too bothered whether the ABS is working or not as I'm used to driving a car without ABS. However, I'll need to fix it before the next MOT as I'm reliably informed that you can fail the MOT on that. Anyway, back to your problem and not mine. It was the wheel sensors I was referring to. I knew someone would be along to clarify. :D