ABV-VR6

Maybe you're right 😁 I didn't get that because English is my second language I guess 🤣🤣🍻 cheers mate

Thank you for jumping in the discussion. -I've swapped the new FCM for another new one (although the same brand) and it was the same thing. -I'm pretty sure it's the initial kick off of those powerful fans that jumps the fuse. All my electrical has be redone and sound. -I'm tempted to try next summer a MK3 FCM with the 30A fuse to see what happens. My only hesitation of doing so is I'm not sure since the MK3 FCM has only one 30A fuse if my after run water pump will still function? -I also recently purchased a stand alone system for the fan that would control speeds and duration plus it has a soft start built-in. Not installed yet. Cheers!

Happy new year to you as well and I'm glad to see that it was an easy fix, good way to start the year! Cheers

The FCM ending with the "B" is the one I ordered and returned. It was sold as a MK3/Corrado unit. But when I saw just one 30A fuse, I figured that maybe this superseded parts was wrong for the Corrado. Now I wish I had kept it to try it out... This exact setup works flawlessly on a MK3. But I wonder if the afterrun auxiliary coolant pump will work with the MK3 FCM? I don't even know if it's a Corrado specific perk or MK3 got that also. 30A would definitely be better than 20+5 in my case. I looked at the fans and they need 25A which explains the 20A jumping all the time and the 25A seemingly working. That said, and I agree, it's a little scary to install a 25A fuse where it should be a 20A. I'm not super comfortable with it either but wanted to try it out. Although, one thing that I would like to point out is that the wiring on the electric fans is very thin compared to the OEM wiring so I think (maybe I'm wrong) that if it was the other way around then chances of burning wires and catching fire would definitely be high. So I'm drawing a conclusion that it might be alright, anyone with better knowledge than me could confirm or deny this? This winter I'll be installing the FCM module I think just to be sure.

Alright, a little bit of an update! Weather is changing and I only drove the car once since, tomorrow I may go for my last drive of the year. I decided to order a module to control the fan with soft start and speed adjust plus you can decide how long it will stay on so it doesn't kick on and off too often. But meanwhile I decided to try things that were suggested and started with the easiest, swapping the 20A fuse for a 25A. I only been in one drive but fans work perfectly, no burned fuse! Crazy isn't? I was wondering why "Charles the humble mechanic" where I took the "how to" seemed to be working just fine? I came up with the theory that maybe because MK3 have just the one 30A on the FCM he was not blowing up the fuse. And maybe on the corrado with the combined 20A + 5A, it was just not enough to withstand the initial draw at start up? Anyways, I'll do another drive tomorrow and see how it goes. Would be nice if it was just that!

That's really unfortunate! Those VDO are just no good anymore, they all cracked... Hopefully the return goes well and you find a replacement!

Hi mate! I found a used OEM fan control module yesterday, the 506 one, it's another test that I'll do; swapping the Meyle one just in case. Can't find a new OEM one so anyway I'll see what happens. At least now I know both AC and non AC cars got the same FCM. I'll unplug the sensor for the third speed on the thermostat housing and technically it should be like a factory non AC car. We'll see!

It is hard to know yes. I'm assuming if UK cars didn't come with AC and I deleted mi e, then I should have the equivalent system and that seems like it was with a 506. I did ordered the E version years ago as it was non AC parts. It is for like a MK3 or a different engine because its totally different. It's the 506A that baffled me a little. Dekker swears it will work as a replacement to the 506 but the one fuse is strange. I don't want to add more issues to the equation so I'll stick with 506 until it's sorted out. Once it is, I could always swap the 506A and see what happens. Because they are definitely cheaper and might be worth it to know

Thanks to all of you for helping me out with this, I really appreciate it. I made myself a list of things to try on the weekend, hopefully I sort this out. -Change the 20A fuse for a 25A and see what happens. -Run the car without the fans connected to see if the fuse blows. -Check the wiring loom from the AC system in case there's any left causing a short to ground. -Unplug the AC sensor on the thermostat housing, maybe that would delete the signal. I'll be reporting back!

The interesting part is that it shows the replacement for it being 506A which is what I received when I ordered a 506. 506A as the one 30A fuse, not the 20+5 on the 506

It's actually the brown one on the right formerly yellow colored.

My car is one of the last as well, SK001010. So technically the 506 is definitely what I need and that's what is installed.

That is such a good call! Very good idea and simple logic that makes total sense. It's colder on evenings now, I could go for a short drive and test that out. Thank you!

That's correct, it's brown or black. When I deleted the AC system I left that one unplugged. After checking my wiring again following Cressa's advice and found my third speed wire not connected to the fan, I plugged this sensor after the work. Maybe that's something else I could check, unplug the sensor and see if it changes anything...

You are bringing a very good point and I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me out with this. Because honestly, I know some stuff but this got me totally baffled. So, ya I'm incline to think it's AC delete related. Maybe I'll have to go back to my "how to" file and double check everything... Make sure everything is completely isolated. From there, I'll see if there's any changes. Weekend project! The rad thermo switch is new and oem btw. Thank you kindly! Cheers