andy

It is a sweeping generalisation! Otherwise you would have said some bikers :lol: I do stick to most limits on my bike, (except derestricted stretches). Although sometimes I will use the power to get away from a driver I don't like the look of (ie deviating in lane, random braking, not paying attention). Accelerating quickly is the safest way to overtake btw (once all checks have been made). As for treating the throttle like an on/off device, seriously no way. I'd be on my back in 10 yards, so would a lot of bikes. I'm fairly new to biking and do ride with respect and consideration, I know there are some idiots out there, but there are just as many tw4ts in cars doing stupid things. Last week whilst driving I was overtaken by a new Ford Fiesta doing I estimate 80 in a pretty twisty 40 limit. I'm quite chilled behind the wheel and eased off to let him slide in front of me as I know there is a corner coming, virtually no stopping distance to speak of btw. I watched in disbelief as he stayed on the rhs of the road and overtook the car in front of me too, all the way round the blind corner, no planning, no escape strategy, death on the road. A closing speed of three figures round a blind bend for anyone coming the other way. Someone will die as a result of idiotic driving like that, I was angry for days about it! My 2p worth :tongue:

Yes me too, the 40/50 everywhere brigade. They all need to go and hand their driving licenses in at the nearest police station.

Yes coolant can feel slippery too as you say. No need to yank head off anyway yet, compression test will reveal most things first.

It doesn't overly look like oil to me, how did the water get on the outside of the bottle? Is that a result of running the engine again, if so it looks like your coolant is escaping under pressure. That could be indicative of several things. You don't necessarily get water in oil (ie milky dipstick) if the reverse happens btw.

I'd have to agree. There's nothing major there, to be honest its all run of the mill maintenance type stuff. If that was up together it would have sailed through I suspect. Bulbs, brake pads, rough bearings etc, all very easy to check and sort before the MOT.

I've had Beru leads from GSF for the past 4 or 5 years, no problems. They don't feel/look as nice as some but work fine. Think they were £55 then.

The MOT man today (straight through again btw). He says, lovely car, you've really done some work to that haven't you, best one we've seen etc To be fair I have just completed the front end suspension/brake rebuild 100 miles ago. Always cheers one up :-)

Was in getting tyres/allignment done the other day, guy in a mint Porsche Carrera 4s, t reg came in. Couldn't say enough about the Corrado, wants one as a daily, has always wanted one etc. Commented on how good they look even in modern company etc etc. Hardly mentioned the Porsche! Had the usual VR/G60 discussion and he reckons he's going to get one (a VR of course)! ;-)

Can someone add me and my other half on please. :-) PO17 Fareham Andy L Reg VR6 Storm Grey Lisa N Reg VR6 Blackberry

Cheers Kev, lifesaver! Off to the shops again then! My new(2nd hand calipers) only had one washer on each side. I was going to replace them anyhow but was unsure if there should be one each side of the banjo. You can get open ended torque spanners, for specialist applications. I've used one for years on RF (SMA) connectors. I assume you can get them for higher torque/bigger sizes.

Should there be a washer either side of the banjo or just on one side?

Any water pipe is not 'expensive' to fix on a VR. The crack pipe is the hardest, but not exactly expensive. However the advert stinks of , "I can't be bothered". I wouldn't bother with it personally. If he can't be bothered with a proper advert, what are the chances he could be bothered about the car. Where does it say in the ad that a water pipe had gone? T0sser!

Glad you've found the cause, it would be worrying to put it all back together without knowing what had caused it. Dare I say it, you could have replaced everything else but used the same bolt . . . Anyway she should be really good now!

Can we not have prices in this thread?

Can't speak for other models but on a VR6 they are, you can't connect the anti roll bar if the wishbones are the wrong way round.

Maybe having all three is the answer, I know mixing them isn't! I'd definitely change those two bits, the mount will have been working extra hard and at an awkward angle if your front mount was broken. MK2 diesel gearbox mount is good upgrade. Nice and tight.

Agreed. That's where I'd be looking, it is expensive and awkward to fix though. Had a car that did this and learned to live with it!

Good work Andy, and good photos.When do you think she'll be back together then?

Does it go above 100 with normal driving? That doesn't sound massively high.

I can go one better than that! Yesterday, as I completed my front suspension overhall I notice something similar, just the ARBs to connect up to the wishbones. Now, I know the ARB doesn't go under the wishbone but if I position it above the wishbone the ARB fouls the CV Gaiter. Hmmmm, what's going on here then.....I'd put the wishbones on the wrong sides of the car, the only thing that identifies which one is which is whether the ARB lug points up or down, mine were pointing up, needless to say 2 hours later after much swearing/cursing its all in right now! I can't believe there's nothing else to identify left/right. You live and learn!

Is it important to only do the wishbone bolts up tight once the vehicle is back on the ground, i.e. normal wishbone position, or does it not matter. I can see that the rear wishbone bush wouldn't really matter as the subframe clamps the bush inner sleeve but what about the front one, Logic says leave it till the vehicle is on its wheels again, however its awkward to get to them then, what with the engine needing jacking etc.

What a bunch of numpties! Make sure you get your money back, they've wasted your time! I wouldn't even let them near it if they have a change of heart and wanted to attempt it. They are clearly clueless!

I saw as bad as that on the weekend, outside the local pub, you can't beat the pressure of an audience to put someone off! They gave up in the end and parked in another road, by the time they had walked back there were 2 cars parked in the same space!

You sir are a god! First one in, under 5 minutes, after 2 hours of struggling! Thankyou so much. It was the stretching the seal out bit I hadn't quite thought of! I'd tried to get the seal started before the piston. I read a guide on a volvo site, that was the problem, they were the same calipers but they suggested fitting the piston half way and then poking the seal in! You cant even see a third of the circumference of the seal! Anyway, cheers again :D

Yes I do understand what you mean, thanks for taking the time to explain it. I did try and do that as well, with some success however I was worried about mashing the seal when you then push the piston in. I think you're right though, its the best way forward! I'll give it a go. Cheers Bud, much appreciated :-)