Christoph

Got it! Nice diagram BTW! :thumbleft: So are there any theories about how this slight leaning off leads to borewash? Chris

Really? I thought they ran hotter because they have less cooling, being on the outside ends? Why do they run cooler than the others? Scruffy, that's exactly what the garage said, but I'm not clever enough to understand why running cooler equates to running rich, and then how running rich leads to borewash. Can you both enlighten me? Chris

I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out TBH. The reconditioned engine was 1500 notes from Vege (exchange), comes fully timed-up with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty. I got that fitted, plus a new rad, water pump, rear beam bushes, magnex cat-back, wheel bearings and a load of other stuff that I can't remember for just over 3K. Chris 94 VR6

LOL! On the subject of oil coated filters and the MAF hot wire, I thought the start-up procedure included heating the wire up, to 1000 times the heat of the sun, to burn off stuff like that. Chris

So Corrado owners are more likely to add a cone filter? I'm sure these symptoms occur because of a number of things happening together, but I wonder if the addition of an oil type filter speeds things up? Really I'm wondering if I should ditch the cone filter and go back to an original setup. Chris 94 VR6

If it was neglect, abuse and old age, wouldn't it be more comon in the 2.8's? From what Vince told me, it's something that's peculiar to the 2.9's. Granted that doesn't do my cone filter theory much good :) . Chris 94 VR6

My VR6 went into my local specialist last week to have the excessive oil / fouling spark plugs issues investigated and sorted. The bores were all showing heavy wear, with number 6 being the worst :( . After considering the options, I decided to get a reconditioned engine, from Vege, so I'm running it in at the moment. Already though, it's 100 times better than before. Anyway, the real point of this post is to see if any other people who've had similar problems also have a cone filter? Is there a link between ditching the OEM filter and seeing heavy wear in the bores? Chris 94 VR6

Oh OK, I've just found the answer in DazzyVR6's thread "Timing Chains". Looks like we're going through the same process. :x Chris

Hi supercharged, It's on 130K. That's a good point about the Mk4 tensioners. When I spoke to Vince ages ago, he said that they bore out the block to make it a true 2.9. Unfortunately, I can't take it up there, but I was hoping someone might know what pistons they use? Thanks Chris

My 94 VR6 is going to my local specialist on Monday for some big time work. They're going to re-con the head, change the cam chains and tensioners and check out cylinder 6 for scoring. Appart from the clutch, which has already been done, is there anything else I should get them to do? If it turns out that number 6 bore is f***ed, what are my options? Thanks Chris

OK, so I used the search and answered my own question... But... I'd still like to know what the difference is between these and the standard parts though. Chris

Excuse the probably stoopid question but what's this 509E, 507B business about? Is that the last 4 digits of a part number? What's the difference between these and the standard parts? Thanks Chris

How easy is it to change them yourself? Are they a pig :porc: to remove & replace? Chris

Genesis amps are supposed to be pretty good, and not too pricey. Chris

There's a picture of my door cards with the tweeter installed on the Audioscape website. After they installed it, they ran their Real Time Analyser, which meausers frequency response and reproduction (I think), and it gave quite a flat trace (which is good apparently) 8) . I'd put the tweeters in the door cards, as close as possible to the mid's, if you can. Chris