Neil L.
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Everything posted by Neil L.
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Cant believe these ecu connectors so awkward! Keep this thread going as i try to find the fault! Thanks
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Just a quick one here - how the hell do you disconnect the multi-plug off the ECU? The black cover slide off towards you, one nut on the ECU, lift it out of the bulk head BUT cannot unplug the connector! Does it just unplug straight out or am i missing something?
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Lol! My local vw bloke has it - he used to do work on the car when it was my daily! If so i ll give him a bell!
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Not yet - im trying to find the fault by looking at the common culprits - but being careful not to spend too much! If i cant the last thing will be to take the car in! I ll take another look this w/end - if it stays dry 😐
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Hard for me to believe that theres something seriously wrong with it - albeit its been off the road for 3.5 yrs! The engine was changed (£5500 cost through a warranty) at 92k - the car is now on 130k! I just think theres something unseen that i aint come across yet - i hope! I ll keep on plugging away or perhaps get it towed to the vw man to take a look! The plan is to get it running fine first then spend a bit tarting it up - doesnt look bad now tbh!
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As i said the cars a pig to start and you ve got to rev the fk out it to keep it going or it just dies! Then re starting it doesnt want to rev at all - and idles very rough! The car has been SORN for last 3yrs!
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Yeh looked at connections etc - ok! Engine cuts when i disconnect so seems fine! I think the lambda was done when i was running car 4+ yrs ago! Do i just disconnect it to check it out?
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Done throttle bod - gleaming! ISV aswell, plugs, leads, coilpack, FPR, soaked injectors, theres fuel at the rail, checked pipes for leaks, maf working! Thats it so far.....
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Will give this a try when its dry - seen the 1 screw there! Want to clean the area of leaves etc aswell as inspect ecu Plenty to test then - now need some dry weather! Thanks again!
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Will check this when get home! Few questions - is the ecu easy to remove to inspect? Is the plastic slam strip bonded to the bottom of the windscreen - the one that has holes for the windscreen wiper splines? Thanks
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Ok the battery earth point? Is that the the bracket with a hole at the top on the lnner wing just to the right of the battery? If so theres no connected wire here! Looked at at battery connectors - can only see a cut black wire on the live side - no loose wire on neg side!
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No have heard of that so not investigated ! Another to add to list!! Have noticed the bonnet earth wire has completely snaped! Would this effect the idling etc This is why i need other earth locations to check them aswell! If the car was road legal id take it to my local vw man! TPS?
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Thanks for this reply - helpful! Yeh few things i can do myself before having it Com'd ! I need to kook at the extensive history to see whats been done already! Few things uve said i ll try! MAF quite new - i had loads replaced when i used it as my daily, various sensors are newish. What is the TPS? Also where are the most important earthing points to look at? Thanks
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Right been back to the VR today and managed to get FPR back out without damage. I applied oil to the seals again and pushed (hard) to get it back in - hey presto went in with a definate click this time - great! On starting (5th time fired!) i again revved it hard (3500rpm) to keep the engine going! Then rough idling again! Its not the FPR then! Then engine died after short time and on restarting the engine fires but will not rev - if i try the engine cuts out again! The car then idles (rough) and then dies! Im now running out of ideas - apart from trying to get it vagcom'd! NB car is SORN (3yrs)
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Theres no way this FPR is going to be just pushed in! Took alot of force to get in there - plus the old valve needed adj grips to get that out aswell - ive read quite a few owners had same problem! I admit i didnt heat the new seal up but i still dont think it would have gone straight in! Anyway surely if the horse shoe shaped retainer clip goes back in means that the valve is in the rail enough? Now its in i think it will be a struggle to get it back out without damaging it - i had to crush the sides slightly on the old one to get it out! Well the outcome is still rough idling and reluctance to rev - im still yet to find the problem Next will probably be pcv valve, lambda, and probably check wiring and earth points! Nightmare trying to find the problem!
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Ok changed FPR but while the car will run - its surging still and idling at the 6-700rpm mark! When first started after replacing FPR i needed to pump the gas and rev the engine hard to keep it going but after starting for the second time the car idles very rough and now does not rev as before! So in a nutshell the car was free reving first time but on restarting would only idle (surging) but not rev through the range. One thing i noticed when replacing the FPR was that there seems tobe a bit of play when pushing it from the front - like it hasnt seated properly in the rail? Dont think the old one i removed was like this! I used a g clamp to push it home - it was very tight - should there be any play in it? Thanks
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Ok thanks again! Got feeling its not injectors - was running for some time before hand! But i wont rule it out totally! Ill wait on FPR and see how it goes then! Ive heard their murder to remove in one piece! Cheers
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Ok - whats this injectors switching lark? Ordered 4bar FPR - noticed the vac line off the reg has only plastic ties holding it on - should this be properly clamped both ends? Its also a bit tatty looking - perhaps new hose and clips? The list goes on - thank god ive got 2 cars!!!
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FPR was on my list actually! Where did you get yours from? Been out to car today - filled with premium and added a generous drop of redex. Started car and unclipped maf - engine cut co its not that! Took KN off and put thin rag over front of Maf and car ran the same - cant be K&N then! Unclipped fuel feed from rail - started car - fuel coming through - to the rail at least! Changed ht leads with new - same! After all this i couldnt then get the car to start at all - its cranking but not firing!!😑 Thought?
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Lol Swansea unfortunately! Thanks for offer!
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Ok thanks for these replys. I will try unplugging the MAF later and yes the small amount of fuel has prob been there for some time! I ll fill with fresh and redex soon! The K&N makes hell of a sucking noise lol - and moves quite a bit under hard throttle! Wouldnt mind buying 2nd hand standard box - but is there any problems with buying a decent cone filter instead? I have a metal heat shield around filter aswell. Cant get it on VCDS at my local because car is SORN still! So many other jobs before road worthy!
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Having had my 1994 vr6 SORN for the last 3yrs - ive decided to get it back on the road again! The car was idling unevenly when i stopped using it so i decided to start my work with the engine. I stripped everthing down to the injectors - soaked overnight in petrol. Then i cleaned the ISV and throttle body in carb cleaner thoroughly followed by the MAF ( which is fairly new anyway ). I then blow air through the K&N to clear any obstruction. I replaced plugs with new and cleaned and checked HT Leads. After cleaning everthing up (looks great now) i started the car up for first time in months! The car idles on the 750rpm mark but does surge a bit up to the 1000 line when warmed up! One thing i noticed is that the car revs normally if i gently use the gas pedal BUT if i put my foot down quickly, the car does not pick up speed and is very hesitant to speed up! 😕 Moving to the engine bay and using the throttle cable, again rev hard, i see that the K&N is moving and looks like struggling to suck enough air into the engine! Is this normal? As well as this i think the car is running too rich - the plugs were fairly black (dry) when removed! Would welcome your help with this problem as im eager to get the VR back on the road again! Thanks.
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Need a full tray for my 94' VR6 - how much you want? Are new ones still available?
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Next step fuel pump?
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Ok changed both relays (109 & 167) but still cut out on me when driving home tonight! The cam + crank sensors were both changed (same time) about 14mths ago - the coilpack was replaced (beru) about 12mths ago! The HT leads havnt been changed - but is a faulty lead going to cause the engine to cut out? What next?