andy35554

reggit thanks, i have give up trying to communicate with it so i will take up your offer when you have you lead cheers andy

dont think the "dumb" interface off ebay is working, serial type, but im not sure what version of ross tech to use on my pc... seems to work one minute and not the other so i think i will take up any offers around the cheshire or surrounding areas for help in diagnosing any problems

managed to get the scan done ( i think!!) with a laptop from work. Does this mean my car has no errors~?

Reggit, thats brilliant thanks, im not to far from warrington. Let me know when you have the lead back and i will meet you somewhere cheers andy ps still after a recomendation for nw garage to do engine work. Was also chatting to work mate, says i should get a "rollong road before and after" - local garage to me sold his rolling road unit to someone up preston way!

fault code scan.... something i managed to get to work on a works laptop once a few years but failed with my own laptop, recenty tried to reinstall with no success. A scan would be good. Any offers around the nw would be appreciated Still need the oil leaks sorting, tarmac driveway doesnt like engine oil!

andy, might have a look at the oil cooler issue, the reason i was thinkin of a top end rebuild was the timing chain has never been done and its major job to do and its done £130000 miles, also it is lumpy and sounds rough when cold, tappets i suspect, i would really like some unbiased opinion on the engine, ie not from a mechanic who is after my wallet. Servicing wise im ok, oil filter is k&n recently cleaned, oil and filter done every 3-5k, plugs about 12 months old and the ht leads 6 month old.

Thanks Ben, I have no reason to suspect bottom end problems although im not sure what to look for down there!! I am between liverpool and manchester so ideally would want the work doing up here

once the engine is sorted the coachwork will have money spent on it too. Too many stonechips!!

Sorry, im not really mechanically minded, being electrical background, so the car has a few subtle electrical mods leds etc... I have constant click although its quite quiet when its warm Sounds rough when cold but it starts first time, no blue smoke. Hardly uses any oil really, an occasional top up Coolant system has no leaks but im losing it into the block maybe due to mayo on the oil filler cap. The sump gasket/rocker gasket or somewhere else is leaking and leaving a stain on my drive. I reckon i get about 20mpg, though a lot of town driving and short runs. What determines the need for a top end versus a bottom end/complete rebuild The engine drives ok, just feels a little tired, friends have mentioned valve seats, oil seals, piston rings etc, can these be done on a top end rebuild? cheers

lol typo error there, 130k miles it should have said. Any recomendations for a garage in the north west? cheers

I have a 95 vr6, 130k on the clock It has original timing chain and clutch Tappets are noisy small oil leaks of rocker gasket Suspect head gasket failing due to mayo on the oil filler cap, tho not present all the time, coolant requires top up due to losing it into engine possibly Performance and mpg seem crap too.... I wish to rebuild the engine so need advise on who to use and what to get done. I am in the northwest. If it costs too much i have a mechanic friend who i could use to do the work for a nominal cash fee....so what bits will i need? Can someone give a ballpark figure on a garage to do the work, and a good garage, but also cost of parts for a friend to do Any advise please many thanks andy

Hiya, another excellent thread that has helped me avoid paying a garage. I noticed recently that oil was on the drive, after a good look around the engine for the source it became apparent it was the inner "O" ring on the oil cooler. Having read the thread i bought the seals from the stealers £5.44 and proceeded to undo the front of the cooler with a 1" spanner - slightly too big but did the job. From under the car i could remove the cover and then pull the cooler away from the engine, renew the inner o ring after wiping the area down, replace the outer and put it all back together. The inner shaft of the cooler came off with the front cover on mine so no struggling, just awkward to get to. No removing the bumper etc! Anyway i now have a sealed oil cooler and no leak which i am well pleased with. I did not remove any of the coolant hoses. One was split a while ago which i had to replace as it was dripping everywhere, what a sod to get off that was, and i now have a scar as a reminder! Thanks for this info guys

The resistor required to stop them flashing fast is a 5.6 Ohm (or 6.8 Ohm) 25 Watt resistor. You need one for each lamp you replace with an orange LED. I have done mine and they look great. I guess maplins should be able to get these for you, If you get a larger than 25w ie 35 watt or 50w these will work fine. lower than 25 watt will get too hot and "burn out" eventually. Connecting them is easy too, about 10 cm wire each side on the resistor and use a multimeter to find the earth and "flasher" connections on the back of your light cluster (when its plugged into the rear lights) - you will see some flat connections on the back of it. Female spade connectors on the resistor wires will plug into the back of the lamp holder.

try cleaning the lamp "solder connecions" with some sandpaper, or rub them on the driveway!! also check the spring connectors in the lamp holder, they might need bending up slightly!

im partially convinced that the fs1 fs2 and fs3 is the same thing but theres still a nagging doubt in the back of my head lol all same price too!

thanks for the replies....still onfused tho lol !!!

hi, thanks, but how come there is only one part number.. magnex xsvwc6 for all models? will the magnex one fit 2.0 and vr6?

is there a difference in between these 2 exhausts? i notice on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FITS-CORRADO-EXHA ... dZViewItem that it says it fits all from 92 onwards. bar fitting. thanks

yeah possibly up by asda once! seen a red m plate vr a few times too

try the spray place on picowfarm road, would/will be taking mine there for some work in the near future!

im sure i have seen you driving in runcorn!

orange leds are the future, cant believe how good they are!

i have had a few goes at these green leds (32 leds total) where rubbish!! could not believe it orange bulbs seems too "red" clear bulbs painted with green glass paint - ok but not very bright, maybe my paint job.. now someone is saying orange leds??? anyone know where i can buy green bulbs 21w as mine are nearly white when on even though they look green ta!

After weeks of prodding adjusting and fiddling with my dashboard to find an annoying rattle it in fact turned out to be the gearstick vibrating. It only did this when i took my foot off the accelerator when travelling at over 40mph -ish. lightly touching it stopped the vibration. I tightened up the gearstick but changing gear was then stiff, didn't feel right. Is there a minor adjustment in the engine bay or has anyone else had this same problem thanks andy

mav, sent!