Jay_vr6

Just had the head gasket replaced, water pump replaced and also the cam chain done while it was all apart. Now when starting the engine from cold (over night) the rev counter hits 2K then plummets back down to 0 and the engine cuts out. If i rev it at 2K for 30 odd seconds then it all settles down and idles at 800rpm. After it's going I have no other problems at all and it runs like a dream. Haven't had a chance to get my Vagcom back off a mate so can't run the diagnostics yet. Any ideas while I'm sitting here worrying about it ?

Had a quick look through the search and found loads on valvers but nothing on the vr6, is it worth putting a fast road cam (only a 270 degree i think) in to get better torque and then re-mapping the engine ? does the engine need to be re-mapped or will the ecu sort out the fueling ok ? Do I just need a cam for this upgrade or will I need a complete kit. Just throwing some ideas about really, exhaust is done and so is induction.

just to jump in, My coolant has just exploded from a large hose at the top back of the engine (just to the right of the middle) and i'm wondering what part it is that i need to get to replace it. I had just come from the garage where they were trying to fix my over heating problem, it seems to be the radiator, he checked to see if the head gasket was giving any grief by some probe he put on the coolant filler and that was fine. Drove it home steady and it blew as i parked the car. The hose is destroyed and i gather that if i get a replacement i'll at least be able to run it back to the garage with out using a tow truck ???

yes the maf temp, although th eoil temp seems to fall in line with it as well. Carbon can is stil in engine bay, tube is 15 inches long in an S shape and is just fed through the cc hole poiting forward. I have just looked at the coolant and it looks rather brown and thick which can't be right ?

I've had my Bmc cda box fitted for 2 months without the cold air tubing as i was to lazy to move the cc, car ran fine and the engine temp never got to 110 without some serious ragging. I've now relocated the cc and added the cold air pipe down inside the bumper, now when driving for any longer than 10 mins the temp gauge is banging on 110 degrees which it didn't used to do, Have i ballsed up on the tubing ? is there a specific way of mounting it behind the bumper ? Haven't put the old airbox on yet and vag com seems to think the car is fine...

I have Dsp s3 skirts and they are blinding, really subtle and fitted first time perfectly, no cutting or trimming and were a nice tight fit even before screwing them in place.

it'll be the fault codes from where a tosser tried to kill me and the rear passenger wheel ended up disintegrated on a curb, cheers gentlemen :)

ahh yes the ABS light does indeed flash a few times when i start up, is there a way on vag-com to remove all the old codes ?

Just got Vag com and run the complete test and it's thrown up these 2 errors 00287 ABS wheel speed sensor Rear right (G44) 35-00 -- 00290 ABS wheel speed sensor rear left (g46) 16-00 - signal outside specifications The car is a 94 VR6 and was idling at the time What is my course of action ?

I now have Vag com reg'd with the 16pin OBD2 connector, In East sussex if anyone needs help :)

Just fitted my new magnex exhaust which is marvelous and working well, but now i get a terrible kangerooing sensation at over 3000rpm in first or second and even higher gears occasionally. (this was happening to a lesser extent befor ei popped th enew exhaust on) One moment it's fine and everything works 100% and then 2 secs later you get to a junction and it goes astray. This happens wether it is cold or warm or bloody hot. I've ordered a vag-com lead but it has yet to arrive. I've thrown decent petrol in and even an additive to knock the ron level up to 101 just incase it was crap petrol or water in the tank but this has no effect other than the car really liking to go fast. It sounds as though the car isn't getting the air induction it needs ( i have a pipercross panel filter) or could it be fuel pump or filter or something ? Car is 95 Vr6 80K

Put me down on the next group buy for some Smoked ones please :)

I have the magnex system sitting in my spare room atm and it's lovely, really well made and all the fixings are sturdy and excellent. I got mine for £315 delivered from http://www.Potn.com last week. Had magnex on my astra sri and it was superb, steel never dulled and it wasn't much louder than the oe exhaust which some of us prefer, I like to get to a destination before my exhaust note :)

still re-chipping is usually best after you've upgraded the usual bits like air filter (either a panel or a dedicated induction setup) and a stainless exhaust. as Kev says it improves the drivability, smoother acceleration etc etc. probably not worth doing to a standard vr6, works really well with the schrik manifold so I hear :)

a ha i was under the impression that the pipes weren't long enough ? if they are then this is perfect. thanks

I have a bmc coming this week and am thinking of removing the carbon canister to allow the air feed down into the bumper. I have done a search of the forums and read hundreds of posts on the canister removal which all seems pretty straight forward but i really need to know what size breather filter i should use on the pipes (bore size so it attaches to the pipe) as i'm considering taking the canister out permanently. Now do i need to put a filter on both pipes ? Will i need to replace the canister for my Mot ? Any other suggestions or tips ?

well hopefully someone will start seeing mine in future around eastbourne now it has dsp sideskirts and soon a nice colour coded grill :) corrados are such subtle cars, love em!!!

I have just ordered the bmc cda induction kit fo rmy vr6, i ordered the one thats supposed to fit the vr6 mk3 golf so i gather this should be fine, I believe i need a reducer to attach the box to the mfa, but exactly what size do i need and how long etc I think someone mention 85mm - 80mm reducer, is this correct and is this the bore size rather than outer diameter ? Any other info is greatly appreciated

It's an m reg but the badge is on the grill, or was when i last looked anyway :)

ahh ha after getting out side today and properly offering the skirts up they are 100% perfect :) just to get some sikaflex now, although which sikaflex ??? is 221 the compound i need ???

I picked this up new for a cheap price and just wondered if theres anything i need to check before having it painted etc ? also what bulbs and holders did you guys use for the bumper so that the number plate can be moved to the bottom of the bumper ? Thanks

Just got these for what i hope was a brgain price of £60 brand new, look the business, proper fibreglass job and includes the dsp labels within the resin. they seem mega strong compared to some other slightly dodgier rip off fibreglass skirts i bought in the past. Anyway they fit like a glove, really tight at each end but the section of the skirt that goes from front door to front wheel well is a few mm out, now whats best to do ? do I just apply some filler and spray it up or is there another way ? Any suggestions ?

ahh sorted, the guys messed up and given me 2 drivers side handles, back to the drawing board for another few days..

I just picked up a pair of rear passat handles for de-locking the rado, upon getting them out of the packaging it seems both are identical in every way, ie the mechs are the same, so have i got two drivers side handles or does it not matter what way up the mechs in the handles go ? thanks in advance

Sorted :)