Cougar

I posted this on another C forum. I usually disable my wing when ice or snow is expected but forgot last night. We got alot of ice overnight and as I got on the highway ths morning I heard Grrrrr krak krak krak and saw that the wing wasn't going up. I think I may have distroyed the gears or the motor. Good advice, if weather is coming, pull the cover inside the hatch and pull the manual button out a notch to disengage the drive to the wing. May save you a headach.

I built my own, HUGE difference. Well worth either buting one or doing your own.

Hopefully you don't have a slightly bent valve or two from Glader debri.

Yea, just thought since I had an extra I might try another in the other wheel well. Considering the amount of plumbing though I'm going to look for a larger IC from maybe an American spec Eclipse or something. Anyone know of a good donar car for a larher IC?

Anyone ever try to run dual intercoolers? I have an extra and have been thinks about how I might make it work. Thanks.

I had a similar problem with my G60, turned out to be corrosion on the connector to the ECU in the plenum. Cleaned it and problem was solved.

Turned out to be the lower bolt on the mount. While I was there I tightened every bolt I could find and alot were slightly loose. It has 140k on it. Made a HUGE difference tightening everything. Guess it just something you have to do on the G60 once in a while.

Thanks H100VW, I had a feeling that length would be an issue (size does matter!) so I was sure to get a new hose the same length.

Clogged drain hole in the plenum, it fills with water until it goes down the fan intake vent.

I think I'm going to have to try this too. $75 USD EACH! for the strips here in NJ.

I have had a sputtering problem under heavy throttle for years now. It would come and go but was always fine at lower throttle. I finally (quite by accident) noticed that there was corrosion in the connector plug to what appears to be the computer in the plenum by the right intake vent. I disconnected and cleaned it and also found that the vacume hose to the computer was cracked. Fixed both and the car runs fantastic! I had forgotten how much power the G60 has! Never would have thought that corrosion could occur there, but considering it's not real well protected from dampness. I have to wonder how many of people's gremlins might be related to this same problem.

The mount to the firewall is good and solid but the assy seems to move further away from the wall. I did notice that a cross bolt just above the steering shaft seemed to be loose but it looks like it goes through plastic and I'm hesitant to torque it down. Hope there's not a crack in the bracketry somewhere. I'll be checking it soon.

It's a Suspension Techniques bar, no way to mount upside down, the reach has to go up as the control arm mount is higher that the bar to body mount. I think it was just made a bit long. I have poly bushing in there too so they don't give much. Been riding nicely they way I have it now. Have to do ball joints though as the is a bit of vagueness at speed.

I know it's an old post but I had this problem not long after replacing strus, top bearings, bushings ect. Turned out the threaded collar holding the strut shaft to the top bearing had worked loose. Little bit of play made a very nasty feeling.

I didn't think so, the assy looks pretty flimsy and I can't find anything loose. I can actually slightly feel when the clutch is depressed through the steering. Strange.

Thanks for the diagram, I see what you mean but after much trial and error it fits better (aftermarket bar looks to be a little longer) pointed out. There's no interference so I think I'll leave it out.

I only did the front mount and I think that's what happen as it was fine for awhile now it moves almost 3 inches front to rear. I'lll check for loose bolts but I suspect it's gone again. Thanks for the responses!

I have alot of vibration under acceleration and it almost feels like the engine is bouncing as the vibration goes like wawawawawa increasing with engine speed. I replaced the front mount not long ago and strus and control arms. Could the rear mount be causing that? It appears that the engine is moving alot when I open the hood and goose it but I was told that they often do. Any ideas?

I noticed that when I depress the clutch pedal the whole pedal and bracket seem to deflect about a half inch. The stearing shaft also moves a bit. Is that normal on a G60? Thanks.

I replaced my front control arms on my G60 and now the sway bars are hitting the arms under acceleration making the car bounce and alot of noise. AZnyone know which direction the swaybar to control arm link should face, in or out?

I removed mine and have no problems. Before doing it though I had filled the cavity with silicone sealer and that held for almost a year.

I just bought a $3 USD momentary switch from the local parts store. CAUTION again, don't let that line short as it's not fused through the box. I still can't find why the line is not hot anymore so I ran a new line (fused) directly from the battery. My advise is do it with the battery disconnected and wrap the leads and contacts well.

Adding the push button was easy I just spliced it into the large red (hot) lead going to the ignition switch. Probem was that it is always hot either with the key on or off. When it moved it shorted and the lead was no longer hot and I couldn't trace down why as it appears that line is not fused through the box. I ran a secondary line from the battery directly to the switch (fused of course) and that powered everything back up and is holding with a 20 amp fuse. So until I find the break in the original lead I'm at least driving again. Now I have to get the windows working again. I suspected that the aftermarket alarm was the problem and bit by bit removed it, now the windows don't work. UI did find this site for wiring diagrams that helped ALOT>> http://volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page01

Be careful not to let the push button ground out, mine did and I can't find what popped. No power to anything switched through the ignition now.

Hi all, I had fitted a push button momentary switch to avoid replacing the ignition switch and all was fine. I was working on something else when the push button switch grounded by accident. I now have no power to anything switched by key. I have interior lights just nothing on the ignition curcuit. I was thinking that maybe there was a fuseable link but I can't find any and all the fuses are ok. Any suggestions?