mk2_20vt

Hi Phil, glad you've got the info you wanted. I meant to reply earlier but for some reason didn't get the notification email when there was a reply to the thread.

Do you know what car either were originally from?.

ETKA is the VAG dealer parts ordering system. Give me your code and i'll have a look see.

What do you want to know about it?. ETKA has all the gearbox codes on.

Which codes do you mean?. 020, 02A, 02J etc are the gearbox type, for example 020 is a rod change box and 02A/02J are cable change. The three letter code e.g. AYK describes the ratios, there are usually lots of ratio variants for the type of box.

Details of compound charged MK5 here:

http://www.germancarfans.com/news.cfm/n ... gen/1.html

i had exactely the same happen with my brand new weitec shocks. All that stops the damper rod pushing through the top mount is a small circlip. Somehow it popped out of the groove when i hit a pothole. I popped it back in and its been fine since. If it happens again i will put a small weld on to keep it there!.

Probably worth selling it as a complete car. The engine wont be as desirable as one from a transverse engined car e.g. golf/a3 as the passat engine is not as suitable for doing engine conversions.

Check that you have a good earth to the ECU, preferably directly to the battery. If you dont have a good ground you will get these same symptoms. Which 12v feed are you using for the ecu?. A good one to use is the existing coil 12v feed. There is a load reduction relay which will cut unnecessary circuits when cranking but the ecu supply shouldn't be affected.

so from what you're saying mk2_20vt, if you get into the program mode and do the 3,3 sequence the doors will autolock when you start the ignition and autounlock when you turn it off???

Apparantly so, think i'll leave mine as it is, not that much car jacking in dorset!.

Have found the installation sheet and there are a few features you can enable/disable. To change them first you have to go into program mode as corradowales described by counting 1 flash, then 2 flashes, then 3. You then count the number of flashes for the feature you want, in the example corrado wales gave it was 8,8. so the flash sequence was 1,2,3,8,8. The other features are as follows:

Memory report back (1,1), this will tell you the cause of a false alarm to help pinpoint a fault

Door Open - Audible warning (2,2)

Lock/Unlock with ignition (3,3)

2nd Function/Pager output (4,4)

Early Warning (6,6) - requires microwave input

Alarm On/Off tones (8,8 )

Central locking time - 3/5 seconds (9,9)

Revert to factory settings (0,0)

Very useful to know. According to the manual you can also have the doors lock when the ignition is switched on as an anti hijack mode.

Well that sounds like a dead useful manual

Indeed. It is the size of a fag packet and a massive 12 pages thick.

Mine has full closure on the windows but not on the sunroof. Anyone elses the same?

I have an Autowatch 160RLi and have the manual. It says that both of the features you mention can be disabled but says to contact an Autowatch dealer to do it. It seems that mine has been done already as i dont have the blips when arming and it takes 30s for the immboliser to re-arm afer unlocking.

Ermmm, where to buy fancy plates :wink:

i'm running standard 2.0 16v pumps.

It does sound like an ECU problem to me but you say you have replaced it?. The Fuel Pump Relay grounds through the ecu so when you first turn the ignition on it will prime for a couple of seconds then when you start the engine the ecu will ground the Fuel Pump Relay again and run it continously. I think the immolbilser interupts the live feed to the pump so it doesnt sound like that is the problem IMO.

*mod edit - changed "FPR" into "Fuel Pump Relay" as FPR normally means "fuel pressure regulator" - Henny*

You've got the mulitmeter set to measure resistance instead of voltage. Switch it round to 20 in the DCV zone and give it another go.

edit: looks like you have also disconnected the plug from the lambda, you will need to keep it plugged in and stick you multimeter probe in the back of the plug to pick up the signal wire.

Green "L" Plate VR6 pumping up tyres at Esso filling station in Shaftesbury, Dorset. Anybody here?

I took the bit of plastic out of the top of the ashtray and fed the wire into there. I dont have a grommet in the cubby hole on mine, maybe a previous owner drilled a hole and put one in?.

Should hold up to a fair bit, although the end tanks are only plastic they aren't going anywhere as they are pretty much wedged up againt the chassis legs. I'm running 1.7 bar at peak and its fine.

Had to make a new mount on the left side of the cross member for the rad peg to sit in. The right side peg sits in the original hole. Couldn't fit the fan and shroud in so am using a super slim spal fan instead.

Not having a lambda wont affect the MPG reading on the MFA anyway as it only works from manifold vacuum which would be the same if it was connected or not.

I've got one in my 20vt, extremely tight fit and have to chop some metal from the chassis legs and slam panel. Also had to move the rad back so its sits straight instead of at an angle. Cant beat them for VFM though, at least 50% bigger than the G60 ones and 25% of the price!.

Stick a variable resitor in line with the coolant temp wire, twiddle it until you get the correct reading, then you can either leave it in or measure the resistnace and put a regular resistor in. Stage 1 fans should come on at 95deg and stage 2 fans at 105deg if you have the dual speed setup.