VEEDUBBED

I don't see why not,the caliper paint was designed to withstand the brake caliper heat just as long as you prepare the casings first by degreasing them then tape up all holes,no problem. If it's the first time your removing the charger it may take you a while,second time will be much quicker,be carefull when you disconnect the charger's oil supply line,sometimes when you loosen the banjo bolts the hose twists it WILL leak oil afterwards...,same goes for when you re-tighten the oil line bolts,especially the smaller one,they sometimes snap off when tighening. wath out when removing the small allen headed bolts securing the air inlet hose to charger,sods to put back in and are easily dropped. Check the oil return hose is in good nick,might be a good time to replace,try to use new copper o-rings when re-assembling,charger's pulley may be a pig to remove 'cos it rusts onto the charger's shaft,took me 2 hours to release once,check cogged belt carefully and replace if it looks cracked. Be carefull of the reinforcing member bolted to the engine block near the oil dipstick,there's a metal spacer hidden in between charger and that aluminium bracket bracket,a bugger to re-fit,especially if your chargers got the O/E silencer box,fitting an RS outlet simplifies future dismateling.

That's the easy bit,hopefully the crank's journals won't be scuffed or damaged,theoreticly you should also change the rod bolts because their strech types,the other thing that's garanteed to be sods are those 3 bolts on the sump near the flywheel,be carefull when you re-thread them back into the engine block. And be carefull detaching the oil pump's plastic sheild,it's very brittle,if you can ,buy the gasket with the windage tray built in,it cuts the amount of oil thrown about onto the crank,tomorow morning i'm doing the same job as you so good luck.

Thanks guys,i'll check with stealer.

Or just get a small file,insert key into barrel and file down tumblers that stick up,works fine.

Can someone tell me were i can get a 2.0 ABA metal headgasket from for my 2.0 9A mill??,can a G60 headgasket be used in place of the crap fibre O/E 2.0 9A's version remembering also that the bore of a PG mill is 81mm whilst the 2.0 9A is 82.5mm. Any suggestions?,ABA engine was never imported to Rome...

I had a 2Y 020 gearbox in my old turboed golf 2 valver,the gearing was way 2 short,it was like a motorbike on acceleration,fine at first but it tires quickly so i then fitted a 4T version of a mk.2 GTD golf,much better,190km/h in third@7900rpm. I've got a spare G60 02A 'box code CBA,if you need it i can strip it and post all the inner parts,saving you a load on postage??,let me know mate.

I've seen loads of caps like the 1 photoed,it could also be hyd.tappets that are partially blocked giving a missfire,loss of power but not all the time though,normally that only happens when the engine's cold because the oil's denser.

Well it might be 1 of the other things i mentioned,if it does turn out to be that seal then yes,it's a gearbox out job+new flywheel bolts aswell because they are 1 use only,or should be..

Well it might be 1 of the other things i mentioned,if it does turn out to be that seal then yes,it's a gearbox out job+new flywheel bolts aswell because they are 1 use only,or should be..

Timing?,fuel flow?(dirty filter),running pressure?,rig up a fuel pressure gauge,i normally attach the gauge's pipe in place of the fuel after run swith as it's close to hand,could also be a tired fuel pump.

Oil filter o-ring not seated properly?,gearbox's output seal under flywheel?,sump gaskit?,camshaft cover gaskit?,distributer oil seal?. Jet wash the engine then warm up the engine,maybe you'll be able to see were the oil's seeping out from,Welcome to the forum mate.

Valerian,i'm sure i've got a spare elbow(not kinked) and i've got about 6 spare 8v tensioners,if you like i could post off those components,there only wasted sitting in a box anyway..

That's right mate,or if not some thick grease,also,when you put the bolts back in,it helps if you first put a 10mm nut inside your socket and then some masking tape around the bolt's head in order that the bolt can't tilt during the tricky relocation,i know what a pig of a job it can be,but to have to do it twice...

I don't thik it's the elbow mate,did you check the rubber 'o'-ring fitted ON the elbow?,might have fallen off or got twisted/kinked etc,and you were working in twilight...

I was bored today and it's been raining non stop for 3 days...,so i decided to fit a spare CIS bosch pump inside my G60's pierburg fuel pump housing,i paid nothing for the pump because when i scrapped my old golf 2 i removed it and kept it in a jar of petrol. Anyway,the only time consuming part is trying to see through the petrol inside the tank whilst re-locating the plastic fuel pump housing's pegs located on the bottom of the fuel tank,if you decide to fit a CIS bosch pump in place of the tired O/E g60's version, be sure to get the right model,i.e,the pump that's open at one end and fitted with a fuel filter/strainer,fuel pumps such as the CIS pump fitted to ford escort rs turbos,cossys,porsches etc aren't any good because the pump's got a pick-up pipe meaning that there's no way of fitting a filter,don't worry about the pump being mounted verticaly,i've had no problems so far.

Hi steve,i'm running a passat TDI 02A box in my 2.0 G60'd corrado,i also fitted a spare VR6 shifter in place of the worn G60 version,my gearbox also has the shifter weight fitted,the gear change is still slightly notchy,not a lot but it's still there...

Rob_b,PM sent.

I've got an exellent G-charger for sale in the 'for sale' site,check it out.

Hi dave,i fitted your instrument rings in today,right bastids to fit properly..., I find it hard to believe that down there in the uk a/c wasn't fitted to g60s,well i've scrapped two g60s that had air-con fitted at the factory and i kept all the bits,compressor,brackets,lines,condensor,pressure swithes,fascia panel,etc,etc,i've even got a VR6 engine that came with a/c fitted O/E,anyway,if you like i can group togther all the ness. bits and send you them down in a kinda kit form?,all components are V.A.G O/E,let me know if you want,cheers,Andrew.

I've fitted on my g-charged 2 liter corrado the gearbox of a '99 passat TDI,the box will fit no problem,it's the ratios that may be much different,post up the code on the top of the gearbox,3 letters such as CCM,CBA,DQY(mine),ATA etc(there are hundreds...),you probably may have to also swap the shifter tower over.

2 of them,1 on top of oil filter aluminium housing,the other's on the oil supply line to the supercharger(braided hose on the side of cyl.head).

When i fitted 3 extra gauges on the dashboard i passed the wire to the oil press. gauge through a spare grommet above the brake pedal,if not you could pass the wire(s) through the main loom's large grommet,use a sharp pointed screw driver to pierce the rubber and then use the varios clips in the engine compartment to guide the sensor wire to the sender.

The butterfly disk is 68mm across.

Yeah,i just got hold of an old steel plate door for outside gas meters,scribed a line around the metal,got an angle grinder and cut away,used an 6mm drill bit and made a series of small holes around the scribed line for the inlet then i bolted the plate onto the inlet manifold using cut/filed spare bolts,i then drilled the weber throttle body's new lines onto the plate,got some long 10mm bolts and nuts,sealed the flange with silver sealant and used the manifold on my old turbo engine,it looks totally ghetto but that's the way i want it,all go and no show..

Coil=green wire+black or black/red on older '89 G60s,those are the oil press. switch and oil temp.switch,black switch=yellow wire,smaller temp. sender=black/green wire,green/black wire=brown 0.3bar switch,i hope that make's sense.