VEEDUBBED

Makes 1 wonder how the hell those oldish big volvos ever saw any boost from their relativly small Garret T25 turbos...

Some were fixed with c-shaped clips that were sods to remove,most Audi 2.0 mills also had these clips as did the2.0 9A engine,there not essential what's more important are the large green o-rings,always re-new them because they will be rock hard after 12+ years of engine heat,especially valver engines,most cases of valver engines not idling properly are down to those rings letting un-metered air past.

First thing is to iliminate that useless oil warmer and fit a normal oil cooler,the O/E cooler is prone to letting the oil and coolant mix when it gets corroded inside,have you checked your car's expansion bottle's return pipe?,remove the return pipe that's connected to the plastic pipe near the bottle's filler cap and check if it's blocked with silt/muck,quite common and will give those symtoms of over pressurising and water loss,also make sure that the expansion bottle cap's o-ring is not damaged or kinked.

First check that the small micro switches iside the door handle aren't sticking(if you still have them),does your elec. windows go up as soon as you turn off the ignition and try to cut your arm off?,99% of the time that's the problem,if not why not remove the cent. locking fuse?.

Try a little talcum powder on the inner part of the belt,also spray some WD-40 spray on the bottom runner,were the fixed part of belt runs, this helps eliminate the annoying thing were the belts get caught on the front seat rec. handle and should normally retract.

Right,nearly everyone knows that when you turbo/supercharge an engine the normally high Comp. ratio has to be lowerd in order to avoid detonation and holed pistons,lets say,for arguments sake that i don't want to use de-compressed pistons,2 head gaskits,bushed rods etc and that seeing as i have to remove the cyl. head anyway,why not modifiy the combustion chamber?. When using 2 head gaskits the C/R is lowered to about 9.5/1 because the 2(G60-metal) gaskits combined are 3mm thick,how much metal needs to be milled out of the combustion chamber to obtain the same effect as using 2 gaskits?,has any 1 done this opposed to the other methods?,comments please.

I've got a van 'cooler on my 2.0 G60 valver,i tried using a delta int. 'cooler and the difference in less lag was quite noticeable when compared to the large FMIC,my engine's running the standard C/R of around 10.8/1 and i've had no pinking issues,the engine def. pinked when using the delta's 'cooler. I've got the same diameter pipes on my engine.

I have'nt the faintest idea mate,there are only a couple of rolling roads in Rome,all are horrendesly expensive and the operators aren't all that clued up when it comes to G60s,take them a delta,cosworth WRX etc and that's a different matter,i'm thinking of actually driving down to England and getting my car sorted by people who know what there doing.

Allright keith?,how your motor going mate?,you've got an exact replica of my old golf 2 turbo-16,mine was black with team dynamics wheels,god i miss that motor!, i here you about that damm idle,mine's the same,basicly all over the place when out of cold start mode. I tried raising the fuel pressure,messing with the CO pot,driving around with the full throttle switch taped down,disconecting the 02 sensor,nothing helped alot,there's also an annoying flatspot at exactly 2900rpm add the horrendus digilag and 1 starts to get pissed off,i'll rip it all out and put a more user friendly system in.

First thing i checked mate,1 meter long,right diameter black hose with yellow stripe,the bottom nipple on the throttle body is for the carbon canister which i have removed,the nipple is sealed off,it's that bloody 'digilag' that's the problem,i might ri-install my IAW/weber injection and see if i can get that system ri-mapped,no one here in Rome knows much about modding an original 8valve G60 let alone a 2.0 16valve model...

I managed to fit a van intercooler on my old turbo 16valver 'rado,the two items are the same length so i had to file down the plastic 'cooler's end pipes to fit it and modifiy the front valance,offside headlight,i couldn't use the A/C model's radiator when i installed my 2.0 G60 valver motor because it slams right up to the VR6 alternator so i had to make do with the small 16valver's 'rad,not recomended with a big 'cooler in front,it will still cool the engine,just,but the fan's 2nd speed is always on and the temp rarely goes below 100 degrees.

G60 ECU has a MAP sensor,not a MAF.

You need fuel when turboing a g60 lump,i first fitted a normal KKK24 turbo on my 8v g60 motor and ran it with digi injection and a BBM chip, the car was ok but no cosworth eater,then i fitted a 'KR' series 16valve head on my g60 block and added a garret T3/4.60/.48 turbo running IAW/Weber injection lifted of a delta integrale,huge front mount intercooler etc,the static C/R was well low,~6.9/1 and low down the car was a bit of a slug,but after 3000rpm running 1.8bar boost(total..)the car would wipe out modified cosworths,wrxs etc,it also wrecked gearboxs,1 thing i never had problems with were melted pistons,rings etc and i use to stomp that motor all saterday nite racing other motors,G60 pistons/rods are immensly strong,you'll damage any piston forged or not with wrong fuelling,old fuel pump,blocked filters,unbalanced/parcially blocked injectors etc,always try and use a wide band when tuning under boost,the bare minimum would be an exhaust temp gauge+narrow band AFR meter. By the way,if you need any spares such as turbos,injectors,G-chargers let me know,xheers,Andrew.

I've got an update for you mate,i temp. closed the full throttle switch and my car finally lost it's habit of suddenly,briefly losing ALL power and bogging down,i also noticed that when using the O/E G60 chip i'd get a flat spot exactly at 2900rpm,every time in any gear, so i tried another spare digi ECU fitted with an old BBM st.4 chip,same thing,digilag,AFR signal dissapearing off the scale etc,so i tried the same thing using that ECU and all those problems went even when using a modded chipunfortunatly,that switch can only be engauged when the engine's hot. My head gaskit is fine though,check the wiring within the 02's sensor carefully.

Allright potato,no luck yet on your motor?,well don't worry 'cos i thought i had my running issues sorted when i changed the 2 throttle switches,no such luck,the bloody engine(2.0 16v.g60) STILL f@#ks around at idle,up and down like a yo-yo when hot and a strange flat spot at exactly 2900rpm as well as the usual phantom A/F gauge that when either hot or cold engine will sometimes dissapear of the scale into lean and the car won't move and just splutter and fart untill full throttle is slammed down,the engines not even pinking(C/R=10/1) because this annoying problem occurs only after overrun,long periods at idle etc,somethings not allowing the ECU to advance the timing for a spilt second but never on full throttle....

You seem to be having the same issues i had when i fitted a g60 charger to my 2.0 9A engined corrado,first check your idle switch on throttle body to see if it's sticking,use a meter because the clicking means nothing,my swith was sticking open/shut although it clicked fine when checking staticly. The A/F gauge on my car reads stoich when first started and then sweeps when the engine starts to heat up,i've got a horrid idle as soon as the car goes into closed loop,when the engine is first started the idle is rock steady,as soon as the gauge sweeps(normal)goodbye steady idle. Regarding the engines temp,mines the same even though i fitted a lower temp.thermostat,radiator fan switch,i sometimes wonder if the car's instrumentation is all that accurate seeing also as i fitted a large front mount oil cooler,the oil temp still reads 110/112 when beating on it...

Exellent info guys,i'm going to get hold of bilal again and get him to do the chip for my engine but i can't find any info on the weber injectors i have such as cc's in flow,impedience high or low etc,absured seing as i live in Italy and the dam lancia delta intergrale was made here...

Simple questions regarding the G60's digifant injection system,what exactly is needed inorder to modify the ecu's settings?, i know that an emulater is used,what i'd like to know is were does 1 attach the emulator to?can VAG-com be used to change the eeproms settings?,from start to finish what's involved in changing for example,the rev-limit on a G60 from 6200rpm to 7500rpm?. Any info would be most welcome because it seems that some of us go to great trouble on mechanical mods i.e,turbo instead of charger,g60 charger on valver engines etc but get stuck with digilag and the original eeprom settings totally wrong for their modded motors,i hate having to take an engine that i spent time and money on modifying and then having to hand the car over to a compleat stranger to re-map the chip.

Right,i fixed the annoying problem concerning my auto-closing electric windows,highly embarrasing getting locked in the bloody car(also affects central locking and i've got no push buttons...),for some odd reason the passenger side door handles micro switch gets stuck, constantly locking and closing the windows and draining the car's battery. So if for some reason your corrado has this same problem,that's your first place to look,cheers,Andrew.

I fitted VR calipers to my G60,identical components on both cars.

Not at all difficult mate,buy gauge from somewere like demon-tweeks and correct sender if your going to use an electrical gauge,run a wire into the car from sender,+/- wires on sidelight circuit for the internal light and a positive ign. controlled wire and bob's you uncle,i've fitted a racetech electrical gauge to my G60 9A valver,very good quality and quite accurate but can be worrying when you cold start the 9A 2.0 as the cold oil pressure goes off the gauge's scale,8+Bar...

Demon tweeks mate,i live in Rome,Italy,so if i get bits sent quite often by them it must say something about their 1st rate service,really exellent company that i fully recomend,i prefer mechanical gauges to electrical versions but in the event of a possible leak 1 could end up flame grilled....

Connect a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure on cold start-up,mine did the same,when i first turned on the ignition the gauge barely moved,2nd attempt ditto,3rd time the pressure went up to required 3bar,tired fuel pump and possibly a faulty FPR.

Blocked that bill,i've junked the CC so sealed the throttle body's 2nd brass nipple,G-man,it only whistles when idleing.

How does 1 eliminate that annoying whistle coming from the throttle bypass valve when 1 builds a valver g60'd motor???,there's no room to put back the boost return on the charger. Ideas pleeze.