adamukcorrado

Yeah they are standard seats, they look very similar underneath, is there anyway i can tell without taking the seat out? even if i take the seat out how would i tell the difference?

The forward/backward linkage on top of the gear box has a slotted linkage between the cable and the box itself. Currently the cable is connected tightly with 13mm bolt, but the connection still slides in the slot, - Is it supposed to to give a bit of play? or should it be tight in the slot and only used in adjustment? I have had the car for 5 years and the shift is fine, just thought i had better check incase it could be improved!

The drivers seat in my current 'rado (1990 16v) won't drop down as low as the passenger seat, or as low as in my previous corrado (same age and model). I have looked under both the passenger and drivers seats and can't see any obvious differences, or any extra adjustment possibilities. Any ideas why there might be a dfference??

I have had a 'cheap' Raceland 6 branch manifold fitted for the last 4 years without it being heat wrapped with no problems at all. I am running it with a full milteck exhaust and Cat bypass and a BMC CDA air box. Althought i couldn't give you Hp figures (never had it rolling road tested) this combination mods certainly give you much better throttle response and the sound is fanstastic, proper V6 growl and fanstic crackle on down shift (well worth the money alone!) I certainly don't believe heat wrapping will change performance - on anything over tick over speeds the gases will pass through the red hot manifold far too quickly for cooling to affect density etc, however not having it wrapped makes the cabin warmer (very noticable in the summer without air con!) but i did have to remove a heat shield on the bulkhead to fit the manifold (probably due to my car originally being a 1.8 16v)

In conclusion, i have investigated further and i found that my passenger mirror had stopped working because one of the wires had worn through and shorted out where the wires pass through the door hinge, and therefore was blowing the fuse (No 14) that also controls the reversing lights. To fix the problem, i stripped the loom out of the passenger door and tidied it up and re-wrapped it with new loom tape, and put grommets on the bare bulkhead that had caused the problem originally. Many thanks to those that took the time to reply, it turned into a nice repair- visible results, the opportunity to tidy and improve old bits, and most importantly completely free!! :clap:

Thats interesting, my passenger mirror stopped moving about a month ago, and as it's the same fuse i bet a wire has broken/shorting out, or a connentor is corroded. i'll investigate further at the weekend and update when i have found the problem. thanks for your help.

yeah the glove box light is'nt working, i'll check that isn't corroded etc tomorrow, i wouldn't expect it to be tho. i'll up date this thread if any new systoms crop up, but i'm driving 300miles in it tomorrow so i don't want to dismantle too much today in case something serious develops before i get home! Let me know if you can think of anyway else to check, Many Thanks, :salute:

fuse number 14 and it's a 15amp, the fuse box cover states it's for reversing lights, what else might it supply?

Not sure if this is engine bay or exterior?, but my reversing lights keep blowing the fuse, sometimes when engaging reverse, sometimes simply by turning the ignition on, I have checked the connections on the top of the gear box, and swapped the load relief relay (number 4), i have checked and cleaned all the earths and bulb holders, all are good condition. what should i check next? There is sometimes a short pause between turning the ignition and the engine firing up which may indicate a tired ignition switch, could this be related?

Good stuff, Thanks guys,

Thinking about it, i can just use the headlight and main beam relays.... sorry I'm being a little slow this evening!! :iamwithstupid: What number relay is it tho?

Any idea which one to use? I've got a full set from a 1990 16v to choose from...

I'm just pulling together the bits to build myself an uprated headlight loom, I have a full set of Relays from my old 16v' rado, are any of them suitable for the job? I realise that it is probably easier to buy new, just seems a shame to have them all sitting there gathering dust when they could possibly be reused?

Woody, i'm talking about the Rubber belt and pulley tensioner being responsible for the noise, not the timing chains, as i have said, the tappets and timing chains and all tensioners are brand new, yet the tappety noise remains unchanged. I realise everything that JMR has replaced has been replaced with VAG - I paid for it! :-(

I've also been talking to stealth and kev 'cheesewire' and they both think it could be the serpenine belt and tensioner that is responsible for the rattly noise, they can't fully explain why the belt makes the noise, but stealth said they have come across the problem on severval Vr6's and kev found that using a cheap GSF belt gave his car the tappety noise,