veritas137

LOL, yeah auto seatbelts were one of those stupid US laws before airbags came about. Heck, even the Canadian cars didn't have these crazy things. Also I didn't see it mentioned here, but the auto belts have been known to cause head injuries because of the moving clip. I know it whacked me at least once while working on the car. Stuck my head in tyhrough the open window and put the key in the ignition, before I could get my head out it came along and whacked me. I guess that's better than choking me if the seatbelt had actually been attached at the time. :lol: And yeah, if you guys ever want to make a few bucks and sell them, the entiree setup includes the A pillars, B pillars, center console trim, buckle, and the entire seatbelt assembly from the B pillar area inlluding the pieces of metal that guide the belt. Amazingly our cars have all the proper bolt holes to attach everything so it's a relaitvely easy swap to do.

Mine also went to -40 recently but it is definitely plugged in. Do they also read -40 when they go bad or is it possible I have a bad connection elsewhere?

So I have this somewhat figured out now thanks to some help. Seems on the stock setup, there is a sleeve that fits on there nice and tight. Well since the Konis are quite a bit bigger, that sleeve is now long gone. Going to pick a couple up at the dealer this week. Also however I am going to have to trim a nice chunk of the spring perch off of my Fks since they rub the tire badly when down low.

Yeah, I'd like to know the procedure for draining also. My rack has a slight leak and the previous owner used non oem stuff to fill it. Going to pick up a fresh bottle of fluid next week and would like to do this sooner than later since my pump is starting to make some bad noises in the morning.

So we have that weird brake valve that reduces braking pressure to the rear wheels when the suspension is upset and the back end of the car is in the air. I had read somewhere about adjusting this on lowered cars to compensate for the difference. It was in the middle of the adjustment and I noticed when playing with it, that with the suspension extended, it made no difference with the valve so I moved the adjuster to the far end of it's adjustment so it would. Anyone done this before? Did I do something wrong?

Yupp, everything was on there. It pushed the upper strut mount insert and everything up into my hatch area. Really scared me at first. It almost looks like the part on the Koni was welded on as an afterthought.

Purchased the FK 75-40 kit a while back for an amazing price. Put the front on about a month ago now and everything went great. Lowered the car down a little more and the ride is great compared to my old blown shocks. Then onto the rears and they only suuplied 1 nut for each shock and it was a weird 10mm fine thread bolt so I had to leave the rears alone and find some nuts. Fast forward to today, I had my nuts in hand and was ready to put the shocks and springs on. Everything went good until I let the car down and the drivers side shock came pushing way up. There is a lip on the shock to prevent it from pushing up, but the lip on my new FKs was very small and pushed through the spring cap. I took it apart and put the spring cap back on and couldn't push it through by hand, but didn't feel comfortable with this setup so I used my old Koni adjustables with the new FK springs. On my old Konis, it almost looks like it was welded and beefed up to prevent this. Here is a pic showing the difference. The Koni is on the right. I have no problem leaving the Konis on there, but to be quite honest I don't really need the adjustability and would rather have the matching spring/shock combo on there. Could it be my spring caps that are the problem? I think they are the Neuspeed ones that came with my old springs and maybe they fit a little loose?

My youngest was home sick today which means I got to work on cars instead of going to work. Installed the fronts without any issues and they look and feel awesome. My old setup was completely blown and bounced around like crazy. I didn't get the rears installed because I need some nuts, the stock ones are the right size, but have a larger thread. Should hopefully get those on later this week or next, no big hurry. I did find a major problem though. The bolt/bracket that holds my front swaybar to the A arm had been sheared off. A quick call to Neuspeed however and new parts are on their way free of charge.

So if 60mm is fine normally, 70m with the newer upper strut caps I should be ok. Wheels are 16" Borbets, somple clean looking wheel. The springs are Neuspeed softsports, but they are several years old and sagging.

Shocks and springs. But the rears are height adjustable so I can even it out and make the car sit level. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok with ground clearance because of the US front lip and no body kit. I'm just really worried about rubbing over every bump and losing my turning radius.

I currently have Neuspeed springs and Koni adjustables. But the shocks are old and blown and the fronts were just the garbage inserts that need to be tossed out. In other words I need new suspension. A local shop had a clearance on the FK 70-40 kit and I picked it up. But now I'm a little wirried the drop may be too much since I drive the car every day. I do have the VR6 upper strut mounts up front which raises the car a little, but I'm still worried. Does anyone have any pictures of how this kit sits or any experience with it. How the car currently sits: Thanks,

Yeah, I did the hose to the ground thing. Only reason I asjed is because there is a guy saying that it has to be hooked bacfk in becvause it needs a vacuum to work properly which I don't agree with.

Anyone have problems with the valve cover vent after doing this? ONly concern I have really heard is that the valve cover ventilation needs a vacuum to work, but at idle I could feel a nice steady stream of air coming out. And yeah, the sound it makes now is pretty wicked.

I wanted a blockoff plate and the only company that I knew of that made them never emailed me back. Since a friend of mine has a mill I figured why not make my own. Drew out the design and picked up the 1/8th inch aluminum. A couple hours later and I have my own custom part. So far so good with it, is this common on the other side of the pond?

Ok, long story short my car has been running rather lean and pings a bit under hard acceleration and before I add a chip and pulley I wanted to track down the problem. To complicate matters, when I got the car the front motor mount was nonexistant and it appears to have done a job on the wiring harness back by the intake manifold. Inside the bundles of wires I fond a special shielded bundle containign 3 wires, black, yellow, and white. Two of these wires were severed. I fixed them finally yesterday and the car appears to be running a bit smoother says my butt dyno and in a short amount of driving I couldn't hear any pinging, but of course it could be my brain bloacking out the sound in hopes that the problem is fixed. Can anyone verify that these wires are indeed going to the knock sensor and if so would they be related to my lean/ping condition? TIA