jezzaG60

I wouldn't go waving an airgun anywhere near your charger mate!!!!!!!! I have a strap wrench that i use to hold the pulley, its kinda line a bit of old fanbelt on a bar which you can use to hold pulleys. A strap filter wrench would be a good alternative. You may well need a small 2 or 3 leg puller to get the pulley off depending on how long its been on there and if anyone put anything on there to stop it sticking.

Cheers Tim.... i was mid reply when you posted that up! The wiring was the hard part of the install! The Mk3 engine is a tall block so we were concerned that the engine may sit too low causing problems with the downpipe.... we used the manifold and downpipe off the mk3, it comes very close to the steering rack as its about 20mm lower than it was originally. We modified the heat shield a little to gain a bit more space and haven't had any interferance issues.

We did a G60 into a Mk3 Gti 8v a few months ago. Pretty straightforward conversion really. We left it on the original rod change gearbox. The loom ended up being a bit of a the original and a bit of the '60 one spliced together. The only thing you may have a problem with is the Tacho drive for the instruments as tach is driven from the ecu on the Mk3 so you can't drive it from a coil feed like it would have been on the G60. You can take a feed for it from the dizzy drive which gets around the problem. The only thing we did loose was the MPG reading on the MFA as this is also fed by the ecu..... that said this may not be the case on a really early Mk3.... but it was on this one. We also used the intercooler from a Mk3 tdi. Not really big enough to be honest but the install was done to a budget and all that setup fits straight in and gives a nice factory look. Fitting a front mount i/c in a Mk3 isn't the easiest thing but could be done with a bit more time and money. I'll have a look for some pics and post them up if i can get hold of them.

yes, the top edge of the cover is the exact same size and profile as the original 3 parts only its one piece and smooth. I think Steve (SWG) may be posting up some more pics soon.... I'll try and take some more pics when there is some better light.

Due to the way we made the panel it is a VERY close fit on the car. It is held on by the front scuttle panel rubber trim and the 2 screws that hold the screen trims at the ends. Did think about putting some velcro along the middle but TBH it doesn't seem to need it. Very easy to fit.... hardest part is removing the old screen trims as there is a bit of a knack to them and one of mine had been bonded on!!! Other than that its just removing the wipers and scuttle rubber trim. Those at the cornish meet can have a look at it on saturday......

Something I and my written off corrado have helped to develope..... they will be available very soon. Not exactly an OE look but it deals with several problems.... It does away with the 3 panels below the screen which i think may now be obselete..... they often get broken when replacing the screen and are usually faded. It also of course covers the horrible mess that is the corrado scuttle area. May not be to everyones taste but i think its 8)

You need new insulation on your bonnet? :wink: :lol: The scuttle cover looks cool when the bonnets closed I was waiting for someone to comment on that...... i might have known it would be you!!!! Cheeky fekker! At least i managed to wash it for you :wink:

Any comments?

I think they are 20mm.... I know what you mean about the spacing, thing is the front wheels are only 7's and the rears are 8's. They were on there with no arch work and it will go lower than that without scrubbing. If i space the fronts out they will probably catch the arch. I still love the look of it on those rims.... but i've got some others now which i hope will look as good!!

couple of ropey pics of my c with 928's http://dition382005.fotopic.net/p26356601.html http://www.trevenson.co.uk/bdm06/jez1.jpg

I'd personally steer well clear of green stuff pads... go for the pagid fr's. I went for brand new oe discs, bearings and handbrake cables, cheaper than you mite thing from the stealer..... especially if you go in there and mutter something about being in the trade club ;) IMO this whole pad thickness thing is utter rubbish..... if you set the pads correctly when you install the caliper... i.e wind the caliper out untill there is a close clearance between disc and pad you will not have any problems at all. My pedal feel improved a lot and the handbrake has 2-3 nice clicks to give a handbrake that locks the rear wheels (yes you will be able to handbrake turn a vw with rear discs!!!!)

Don't wanna get too carried away at the moment.... things can happen pretty slowly down here on cornish time!!! Pics will be straight up once they are done. Now the twinlet kit is finished and in production hopefully steve will get a bit more time.... although i'm stacked out with tuning work atm so i can't really chase him up too much! I really want to have some bits sorted for edition38 so everyone can have a close look at them!!!

I've got mine!! Its been run on the dyno as well and is actually showing some gains as well. P.M Edition1 on here or look on http://www.swgmotorsport.com. I'm not sure if steve has updated his website yet but the contact details will all be on there. I'm also working with him on a few other goodies for all you fellow corrado owners out there.... i'm sure you'll like what we come up with!!! 8)

I think your thinking of Carbs here...... Fuel consumption if the engine is properly mapped is very good. Our company caddy on throttle bodies achieves well into the 30's on longer trips. Its true they will drink if you cane it..... and they do beg to be cained if you enjoy the noise/power!!! Well set up throttle bodies on a 2litre produce a good ammount of torque, our caddy pulls well from 1000rpm in fith all the way to the limiter at about 130mph (on our private road of course) The idle if properly set up on a good management system should be silky smooth. I'd have had the noise thing down as an advantage..... but thats just me. You can have an inlet box made which runs to a stock filter and the noise is greatly reduced. Our caddy was done on a budget... we made the inlet manifold from a cut down stock 16v one, £80 throttle bodies from a GSXR 750 bike and an emerald ecu.

It could well be a timing problem... we have seen the effects of the knock sensor kickin in on the rollers and that could cause it to hold back. If you are hearing a pinking noise then i would definately say you need to look into that.... either the car is running lean or its running too much advance. Do you always run it on optimax??? The Lambda shouldn't effect anything on hard acceleration as the ecu is then in "open loop" mode where it ignores the lambda reading. I wouldn't have thought it would be your crank pulley either as they tend to work their way round in one direction sending the timing out further and further.

I've taken apart chargers which have never been re-built and they have the FAG bearing with a plastic cage..... shouldn't be a problem mate

Looking from the flywheel side of the engine.... turning the flywheel anti-clockwise.... its the SECOND mark. The first one is 6 degrees BEFORE TDC.

i'll have a set if they are chrome!

The RH's are 16's, unfortunately a couple of them aren't that straight so if anyone knows of any others i'd love to know!!!!! The wheels on the edition 1 are Keskin CR7's i think, 9x16 :D:D

There is a long thread on Vortex about the ratios available for the 02a 'box. I have got some of them written down somewhere.... if i find time i'll dig them out..... or if i find a lot of time i'll look on Etka and let you know from that. I'm building a box using bits from a g60 and tdi boxes.

I've seen a lot of valver throttle bods where the mechanism has become a bit sticky, if you disconnect the cable and open it right up and let it go they can be slow to return. Usuallly fixed by a good session with some WD40. Not that its likely to be the problem with the Redline single butterfly!

Its actually quite a freshly painted floor.... and besides, they are in plastic wrappers!

I did this conversion a little while back. I picked up some calipers off ebay from a skoda fabia vrs. I used mk2 pagid fr pads, pedal feel is fine you just have to make sure you wind the caliper out to a close fit before putting it all together. As i already had goodridge hoses all round and i'm a tight arse i made some little adaptors which let me use the original hoses. I now have a handbrake which locks the rear wheels with 2 clicks!!! Something i have never had in 10yrs of gti/corrado ownership!!!! i got a little carried away considering all i needed was 1 new caliper!!!!!

Is the car performing better now? It could just be that the engine is now breathing a lot better with the exhaust cam. The cam has a fair bit more lift so i would expect to see a drop in boost pressure in the inlet manifold. At the end of the day.... the boost in the manifold is a measure of the air thats NOT getting into the engine, if you can make your engine flow more air with a ported head or a cam then you will be getting a better cylinder fill and more power! When i fitted a cam to an 8v '60 boost dropped by 3psi but we gained about 18bhp. Now go stick a 65 on it and let all hell break loose :D

You certainly need the adjustable cam gears... and ideally a vernier pulley as well if you have had the head skimmed at all. It is possible to get the original gear machined with a new key slot in the correct position. I seem to remember 6 teeth and 4 degrees for some reason. If you buy a set of the adjustable gears they come as a pair so i'm pretty sure you could just use one of them and sell the other on to someone else interested in doing the mod...... I'll tell you when i give the set i've got sat here a go! No reason why this mod shouldn't give a good power gain without being too cammy.... the profile of the exhaust cam is still pretty mild when compared to some of the piper and kent offerings!