jezzaG60

I've got an 022 906 032 CA..... Don't know if that's any use?

I would run a softer front ARB.

It will be a transistor gone in the ecu..... If you open up the ECU and trace the fuel pump pin from the ECU plug back you will find the Transistor (small black 3 pin component used to switch current) that switches the fuel pump relay. I repaired one before with a transistor robbed from a central locking pump unit. I can't remember which pin it is on the ECU, I've not got the wiring diagrams to hand

Not uncommon to mix charger casing halves. I may have a spare, I'll see what its like when i'm back in work.

Yes, everything in the advert is still available at the moment. There has been a lot of interest in the standalone oil kit but no-one has paid me the money!

bump

There are a couple in my for sale thread

bump, updated with more pics and parts

I've got someone interested in the loom and ecu together, but if it falls through I'll let you know.

Think I may have one, will check tomorrow

Pic of the standalone oil feed added, PM's replied to. Toothed belt kit provisionally sold.

Updated - engine finally out

For sale thread updated...... finally stripped the engine out so all the bits are now available. G60 CS ..... talk to me about the syncro parts!

My old G60 was epic on standalone management! There are a few things that can make it a bit more simple..... some of the later golfs have a crankshaft main seal with an integrated crank sensor. G60 auto throttle body has a build in TPS.

As already said, that just needs a steering angle sensor calibration. Search the ross tech site for the procedure.

Right, I've had a bit of a realisation that I have far too many parts sitting about. As it seems that I'm not going to get round to building up a new bottom end and finishing off my 16vG60 turbo project the following parts are for sale. If someone wanted to buy the complete engine I may be able to come up with a deal and include the emerald ecu and loom but as with all these things its probably worth a lot more in parts than someone would want to pay. Charger 1 - Standard Charger. Was an extremely low mileage unit (less than 20k) which I had re-built by G-werks and has never been used. In Darrens words it was better than a new charger from VW when they were available. 0 miles, still wrapped up as it was when I collected it. £1000 Spec Stage 3 clutch and flywheel - Stage 3 clutch and alloy flywheel for 6sp O2M gearbox. Brand new never used. ($1200 + Delivery + Import duty new!) £650 G60 Block and head - Can't remember what milage this had on it when I pulled it out of a crashed corrado. Had been keeping it for a cross flow turbo project. Came from a running car and I'm sure it sounded sweet but I'd advise giving it a check over before use £150 8v Cross flow head - Head has been modded to work on a G60 block. Welded up the oil return on it so it lines up with the G60 gasket properly, Has then been skimmed. It had a very light port job, valves cleaned up and re-cut etc £200 8v Cast Turbo manifold - T25 cast turbo manifold, unused £80 G60 ECU and Loom - Go great with the above 3 to put together a cross flow g60 turbo or something £150 The following parts just removed from the car Charger 2 - Stage 4 Jabbasport, re-built by G-werks, less than 3000 miles since. Always been run with a standalone oil feed kit using mobil 1 0w30 oil Great strong charger, used by me to make 305bhp on a 16vG60. £750 Standalone oil feed kit- Great for maintaining a healthy charger £150 Short runner inlet - Modified Audi S2 inlet, ported, internal webs cut out, G60 throttle body flange. Audi S3 fuel rail. 4 bar fpr £250 Engine - ABF block, Scat steel rods, Heavily ported kr head with new guides, seats cut etc. New bearings in the engine. Stacked steel headgaskets to lower compression. ABF cams. Done 3000 miles since putting it together. (rods £350, ££££ for headwork, bearings etc etc) £500 Brand new VAG ABF oil pump - still in box, i believe these are now obselete. - £110 # Emerald ECU - Comes complete with ready made loom (the loom is nothing special as its been used by me on a few different projects, always intended to make a new one to make it neat but it does the job and will get you running), MAP sensor (cost £80) 4 Cylinder coil pack and leads to suit 16v motor, I can include my all important 300bhp+ 16vG60 map. New ECU costs £600 without all the other bits included. £600 for the lot.

All engine parts are for sale if anyone is interested in anything......

I've got a set of 312mm S3 fronts. Got a nearly new set of brembo pads in them (done 1000 miles max) and a good set of discs with them. Looking for £160 Also got a good set of Mk4 rear calipers £50 PM me if you interested.

Might have a pair of TT 3.2 ones if your interested?

Ha ha..... Holy thread resurrection! I get a feeling I'm going to be badgered in to getting on with this thing! Anyone know of a syncro floor pan and subframe at a sensible price??

Turbo feeds into the supercharger. I've got an electronic throttle body between the turbo and the supercharger outlet which will be used to bypass the supercharger at a certain rpm/boost. From the initial testing in this configuration the turbo was able to spool at around 2.5k...... probably about 4000rpm sooner than it would with no supercharger on there! The project has been on hold for a while now while i bought a house and save some money to build up a decent bottom end. Should really pull my finger out and finish it off!

Ha ha ha..... I'm local (St. Agnes) but my corrado hasn't been out on the road in nearly a year!

I have gone a touch further with this. Excuse the "work in progress pics" Poor car has been pushed in and out the workshop for the last 9 months and is looking seriously unloved! Had it running today for the first time in tooooo long. Little play on the dyno and things are looking quite promising ;)

As said above, oil coolers are a common problem and can often appear like a headgasket issue at a quick glance. Replace to cooler and see if you can get hold of some Forte Bio-degreaser. Its the best thing for munching its way through that mayonaise in the engine!

Another thing to check it that the TDC mark on the crank pulley lines up with the one on the flywheel. The crank pulleys have a habit of breaking off the keyway and the pulley then starts to move. It can cause the intermittent kind of timing problem you seem to have. I've had to fix at least 4 G60 cranks/pulleys by drilling and dowel pinning the crank pulley to the crank.