jezzaG60

I can get any machine work your head needs sorted for you. Can also give you some pointers on where to concentrate on with your porting work. I've got a 16v head that i'm working on at the moment (when i get time) Probably best if you were to pop down some time and i can show you whats what. Can't give all my secrets away online :D

Once we have this set up running i'm gonna work through some costs and see if we can offer a plug and play throttle body kit. The turbo motor in the background is a 2l Zvh we are building for a customer.... the 16v turbo kit is just out of shot ;)

You want some of these..... Just another little project we are working on..... and all in cost of £120 so far :D

One thing i have always wondered is what if someone has replaced the clocks with a set from a 8v or 16v..... the sensor on the clocks is never meant to see boost so the highest they ever read is atmospheric pressure.... i.e what you are seeing. I'd get a boost guage as i never trust what the mfa says. I wouldn't buy a cheap boost guage either as my ebay jobie only ever hits 7psi..... which worried me after i did my charger re-build!!! Stuck my proper Mac Tools diagnostic one on there and now i'm seeing 14psi.... much more like it!

Well on your normal everyday road i'm pretty confident in my cars braking ability and my ability to hold it right on the limit of locking.... the only moments come on our nice cornish back roads when you come across some wet leaves or a stupidly placed manhole...... The other thing i'm thinking is that in the wet its pretty easy to lock my brakes now.... once ive fitted bigger discs and 4 pot calipers i'm gonna have to be even more gentle with the pedal! Guess i'd get used to it and be at the stage i am now with it soon enough. Its just when i've got all the bits and its all being build up off the car...............

Well fitting it wont be a problem. I think over christmas i'm gonna have the whole interior out of my car anyway dash and all so i'll put the wiring in place. If i decide to use it then its all there. I'm building up new front and rear suspension and subfame with all poly bushes and new brakes so i'll make a decision when i put that lot on as to whether to run it. I was thinking about installing abs sensors for traction control on a standalone ecu when the engine gets that far so the extra to hook the abs up then isn't that bad

Yeah.... the blue corrado doesn't have it... its quite an early one so you don't see that many with it. I'm breaking a late spec G60... i was gonna fix it but by the time i get hold of the other bits i need and get it painted its gonna cost more than its worth! Just thinking a bit more about the abs now i have a nice wilwood 4 pot setup and the new engine on its way.........

Right..... Well i've got a complete corrado that i'm breaking which has a full working ABS setup.... Is it worth me transfering it to my nice mint corrado or is it just going to destroy my braking feel and cause me grief?? Opinions please! :)

compressor and an air chisel.... should have them out in 5mins

You can remove the k-jet injector inserts... they unscrew but usually require a bit of heat. You can then buy the digifnt inserts and just screw them in. Idon't think you would getr any imediate performance gain but it may be possible to make a better porting job on that head casting. If you compare the G60 head with a 8v gti one the g60 has bigger ports already. The solid lifters mean you can rev it a bit harder but i think you would be pretty brave if you were wanting to rev you g60 motor past 7k!

How much is a Firebreather and redline plate worth? I might have one for sale if the offers right.

Glad to hear you have got it sorted now mate. Seems our diagnosis wasn't far out! Did you get your new suspension kit fitted while you were up there? We are gonna be having a VW only rolling road day.... probably in the new year so i'll let you know when cos it would be good to see a few corrados there!

i've come across this a few times..... i think if you could see inside the door you would see that the little tab that the handle lever presses on is stuck just a touch down. For some reason this means that neither inside or outside handle works! Simple enough to get in tho..... don't ask how i had to work this out! Wind the window down, pull off the outside rubber trim and pull out the inside trim between the door card and the glass. Its a bit difficult and you kinda have to force it a bit but if your careful you shouldnt do any damage. Once you can see inside the door you will be able to hook the tab back up, lock and unlock the door and then it will open. Once open take the lock mechanism out and free it off with some WD40 and white grease..... alternatively you may find like i did that it was the little plastic nodder on the handle is wound out too far and just needs adjusting in!! Hope that sorts it!

Cheers darren, thats what i needed to know.... Have you seen the displacer that rp-motorsport are making?? I'm not entirely convinced as they seem to have made it thicker and of aluminium. i would imagine this would make it a fair bit heavier than the magnesium alloy of the original and to be honest may not give any advantages. Am i right in thinking that a 65mm pulley taken to 7k engine speed relates to just over 14k charger speed? I'm gonna be needing a toothed belt kit for my project. What equivalent pulley sizes are available with the g-werks kit?

I'm not looking to go smaller that a 65, may even stick to a 68 but the engine will be going to 7k ish. It will get regular re-builds and very regular oil changes. Just looking to try a few of my theories. It seems that everyone is thinking along the same lines at the moment and realising that the key to a lot of power is flow not boost..... and the main restriction to flow it the head. In fact if you can increase the flow and thus keep boost down your going to take strain off the charger. Obviously the 'charger must have a critical frequency where it will blow apart regardless of what you do to it.

Cheers steve. I'm in two minds whether to try those metal sheild ones or source the uprated rubber ones.... a little tricky and expensive. I'm just thinking that little bits of crap may get into those metal sheild ones and cause trouble! I'm gonna look into getting my case anodised..... i've got a couple of chargers to play with and i need something that will stand some revs.........

Thats interesting..... the secondary shaft bearings you have pictured there have metal shields on them as opposed to having the complete rubber seals ( differece between a 6003.2rsr and a 6003.2zr) I had wondered about using the metal shield ones but i'm sure there is a reason why vw used to rubber seal ones. I thought the tuners (bar tek, gwerks etc) used an uprated rubber seal bearing? One of the 'chargers i have is an original VW one and has dark grey apex strips. I think VW did use dark grey and then a light beigh strip. Not sure what the difference is!

I'd be interested to know the part numbers.... i was under the impression the best available FAG ones were 6002 and 6003 C3 RSR. These are rates to 13k. I think a bunch of the tuning companies got together and asked SNR to produce an uprated bearing for them specifically for charger re-builds.

Well, i've got my re-build kit sat here...... I'm fairly happy with the Seals i have ( NAK viton as used by KK i believe) The bearings are all as OEM i.e FAG and one Torrington. I know there are uprated bearings for the secondary shaft which darren and others use..... From what i have found these are made by SNR and have uprated seals and a super high temp grease allowing them to spin to 17k rpm!? I have to say they seem to be difficult to source and aren't listed on the SNR website. Difficult but not impossible....... so i'll probably get some of them to be on the safe side. And finally the apex strips..... to me these seem to be the worst things as they have no markings on to allow you to find what material they are. The ones i have are a grey brown colour... apparantly 55% bronze and ptfe iirc. Whether or not the material has been tempered to pre-shrink it i don't know.... in a way i wish they weren't cut lenghts so i could have tempered it myself before fitting! My main worry is that the material is gonna be too hard and wear my casing. Still, i'm planning on a rebuild pretty much every year on my new project so i guess i'll give them a few months before cracking the thing open and checking whats going on. Brings me to another question.... anyone tried getting the g-lader case hard anodised??? doing this could greatly increase the service life of the casing..... i guess its possible it could make the casing too hard and make it hard for the seals to bed in. I'm sure someone must have had a go at it? And finally..... anyone got any ideas on ptfe spray to keep the charger lubed? Don't really fancy the mess of the kluber and as i'm gonna run with either twin intakes or with the return caped off i'm gonna have to spray something in there! Any comments appreciated.

Hi tris, This is jeremy from rk engineering. What i'll do when we have your car back for a go on your rollers is to get it on the ramp and hook a good old analogue multimeter up to the lambda. That will soon show if it is cycling rich/lean ok. I'm not entirely sure what the O2 value vag com gives.... its not a usual lambda voltage (i.e 0-1v). The only thing i can think is that it is a simulated "lambda value" i.e stoichiometric = 1 1 = lean This would probably make sence as the ecu would be seeing a lean situation and cause an adaption towards the rich side increasing the fuel consumption. Anyway, when we hook it up to the wideband lambda kit and get it on the rollers i'm sure all will be revealed

Can't believe you managed to do every one of the valves! Price you pay for a high lift cam i guess! Did u ask patrick about some bigger exhaust valves? I think we'll be able to sort the porting out a bit better than that TSR head.

I must admit i had an earthing issue on a golf gti once which foxed me for a while.... it seemed to crank ok but just a little slowly. Engine flooded everytime on startup. only way to get it to run was to turn it over with the injectors disconnected and then plug them in when it caught. ran fine once it was going tho. Turned out to be the main earth strap to the gearbox. Simple test for that tho. Just clip a jump lead from the neg terminal straight to the head or block.

a dizzy problem wont cause it to overfuel. If there is a good spark then i would say its ok... the fact the engine is running suggests the spark is timed close to right. Sounds like the reason it stopped in the first place was flooding.

Sounds like the ignition side of things is all ok so must be a fueling issue..... Have you actually checked the fuel pressure?.... have to say its unlikely that it would be way higher than it should be for any reason. Lambda sensor shouldn't be an issue during warm-up so you can count that out. What about the CO pot in the induction? This thing is an air temperature sensor so helps control fueling... it also sets the CO content.... i.e the fueling. Check for approx 500ohms resistance between the outer two pins on the CO pot. check for some reading between pin 1 and 2 which is the temperature reading. Failing that.... get a multimeter and check every sensor wiring back to the main ECU plug. Not unheard of for the wire to break in the loom somewhere. If that doesn't show anything then trying someone elses ecu will see if that is a problem.

Ha Ha..... S2 crank eh...... and what happens to that 5th cylinder it has.....! All you need is the S2 pistons, the rods they use are identical to the 1.8 16v KR ones..... i mean they are the same VW part number. From what have seen they are good to around 300bhp if you use some ARP bolts. S2 pistons are however only any good for a 1.8 engine. I have searched for them before and it seems that oversize ones are very expensive so unless you have a mint 1.8 block your best bet it a set of custom forged pistons. You can use the S2 exhust manifold and have the 5th runner cut off and capped but its not a very pretty or i should imagine efficient manifold. Probably the cheapest way to begin with tho. The S2 intake can be used again with the 5th cylinder cut off and a plate welded on to attatch the throttle body to.