ZippyVR6

PM Me with the VIN. I work at Porsche GB and would be happy to help.

Yeah, I put a 5 gear close ratio box in, and it wont let me lengthen the final drive. I am loathed to spend 20k on a fully customisable, setup just to win one race. I spose its only 20k, but I am struggling to retain credits above 100k at the moment. and trying to save up to get my skyline to 700 bhp so my B spec driver can actually win some races.

Anyone got any tips, for amature 60's muscle car championships? I have a Chevvy SS, but it seems to bounce of the limiter at 117 mph and I am struggling to better 4th place. Its the only race in amature league I have not Gold'd Also, I would be up for an online Lupo cup car round the ring. It was a great race. :D I love this game. :clap:

Magic, Thanks for clarifying this. I sealed the plug that fits to the unit with some insulation tape to rule out the lead first of all. I think it has solved it, so it looks like the lead needs replacing. Thank you all. Ill get on to them and look at ordering a King Lead.

Cheers. Coilpack? I always assumed caus it was an early VR it was a Dizzy? and which clip is missing?

I think that was because I had just bought that one, and added it to my favorites, but as it was my first ever online race, I was a bit swept up with the process. Worked out why I couldn't select a Kart now, So next time you online, Drop me a line, It was a right laugh.

Hiya. Car was sat for 2 weeks whilst on holiday. Once I had turned it over and defrosted things thoroughly, the drive is a bit lumpy. I traced it to an arking lead. But I dont know what it is called in order to replace it. can anyone point me in the right direction please? it was arking between the two arrows. It seems I either need a new lead, but which one. Or a new unit, but I also dont know what it is called.

It aint a Myth, Ill get some pics up in a PH Custard Test style.

Nope Genuine post. I put some cheese in the engine bay when I parked up at work today. Just checked it at lunch. Guess what. Nibbles on the cheese and more foam on the cam cover! Ill look into the ultrasonic alarm. Cheers.

Opened up the bonnet tonight to find loads of chewed up bonnet insulation on the cam cover. It looks like I have a rodent in my engine bay? Any ideas on how to get rid of it. I've seen a anti rodent install on E38, but That a bit beyond me. I was thinking of some poison in strategic places, but what if it dies and starts to stink the car up? Either way I need to get it sorted before it chews through soething important.

Had a really crap day yesterday so sat down and watched Training Day with a bottle of wine. Always gets me how gritty this film is. I love it. 10/10

The Crazies. Pretty good zombie/28 days later film set in an old American town. 8/10 Better than I expected

Nice one, Good Idea.

Yip. Its a disconinued part. :mad2:

The problem is that the new replacements we have found are not matching what was there to start with. They either have different angled outlets, or come with too many outlets, rather than the single one needed to go to the ABS pump. Apart from one, which GSF managed to source, but when put in place the pushrod was tooo short, leaving a lot of pedal movement before any sort of brake response. However, as of this afternoon, I think have managed to find a replacement master Cylinder with servo for less than the one listed above.

Update, Im still no closer to getting her back on the road. Have stumbled across a repair kit. What do people think of this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

The Mechanic guy is saying that He will need to fit blanking plates to one of the ones with multiple outlets to resolve the problem? does this ring bells with anyone.

Cheers, Thats an interesting and refreshing idea, Wont it put aditional strain on the rest of the system though? Ive not yet changed the slave, and trying to keep costs down if poss.

I am in a bit of a pickle. In sorting out my brakes it has come to light that the master cylinder seal was shot, In trying to source a new one We are up against problems. The ones that GSF sent, (3 seperate ones) are all slightly differnet but none are right. Mine has one outlet under the bleed nipple but it comes out straight not at an angle. Has anyone any experience of this? or can they offer advice please?

Nope, Its the same one I believe the car was produced with. No mention of any ABS work in the history. Its an early VR6 too, so no reason to have anything advanced in it.

I’m sorry but I beg to differ, I have no need to lie, or lead Jon astray with diagnosing his fault. Mine flashed a pattern which was translated as an error code. Whether it is an early / late car thing or not I don’t know, but either way glad you managed to trace the fault.

Have you turned the ignition to stage 2 and let the ABS run its check, then left it? If its fubar the light will flash in a set patern, The pattern means something, and the patern's meaning is somewhere on this forum. That was the way I managed to locate which sensor was fubar on mine.

Cheers, Well he has quoted me 5 hours at £35 an hour and £60 for the bushes, That cost will include any possible issues with dropping the beam, So I recon its a deal. Sheers for the response fella.

Hi all. Good news is she passed again. But the advisories are that rear beam bushes are nearly shot. This could explain the recent unexpexted tail out moments. :D I have asked my local guy for a quote as this is not a job I would want to take on and he has the VW tool for it. But before he comes back to me with a quote, It would be nice to know a ball park figure for replacement with VW ones, (not powerflex).

Hi Neil, or anyone else who has had vr6 rear bushes replaced. Just our of curiosity, what did your garage charge for replacement of the rear bushes? Mine just passed its MOT, but he said it was by the skin of its teeth, as the rear bushes deffo need replacing. He, is going to do me a quote but I'd like a point of reference for the cost of the job.