ZippyVR6

Ah well. Cheers for your replies. Its a shame they dont do single hose replacements.

Does anyone know if Samco has some sort of warranty? One of mine has developed a pinhole leak? Im bloody annoyed, as they have not covered over 40k and were best part of £300.

Baz, Ill mail it to you from work, PM me your email chap.

As ever a solid response craigowl. Ta much. The car was a horrible colour and felt really gritty to the touch. I spent a good few hours giving mine the start of season clean up, and a proper coat of swissvax shield. and then it went and rained, so Im sure thee will be more crap when it dries, but atleast I got the wax on first.

HAving read through it agin. It is clearly a markeing stunt undder the guise of being helpfull. ut how the hell can a nutral PH product nutralise an acidic powder? Surely it needs to be mildly alkaline at best?

Just recieved a press announcement from Autoglym. Motorists across the UK are being warned that the volcanic ash from the Icelandic eruption could damage vehicle paintwork. Car care firm Autoglym has assessed the composition of the ash and issued advice on how to safely remove microscopic residues that have already been deposited, as well as protect a vehicle from subsequent fallout. The ash – now prevalent in Britain’s upper atmosphere – is composed of tiny jagged shards of rock and glass. Once the highly abrasive, acidic ash has fallen on cars, there exists a real danger of damage to paintwork, glass and even to wiper blades. Furthermore, the sulphuric content of the ash means the deposits are more acidic than normal airborne dust, representing an increased risk of corrosion, especially for rubber door and window seals, wiper blades and tyres. Paul Caller, Autoglym CEO explains: “We invest significant sums in researching the impact of road grime and extreme weather conditions on cars, but the fallout from volcanic ash creates an unprecedented challenge for our lab team. The ash contains particles that are substantially larger, harder and more aggressively abrasive on paintwork and glass than normal atmospheric contaminants. “We are concerned that, as many motorists get their buckets and sponges out for the first time in the warmer weather, they could unwittingly cause damage to their own vehicles, unless they take extra precautions when cleaning their cars. Moreover, many forecasts suggest the eruptions will continue and therefore ash deposits may present a risk for weeks, so motorists must take steps to protect their cars from future deposits.” Autoglym’s advice on dealing with volcanic ash deposits: 1.Thoroughly soak car bodywork with water to loosen surface deposits 2.Use a pH-neutral car bodywork shampoo solution to neutralise acidic fallout 3.Use a number of smaller buckets rather than a single larger bucket to minimise the risk of ash particles being reapplied to bodywork on the sponge from contaminated water 4.Keep the car wet with clean water while washing with a sponge – this keeps the surface of the paint lubricated to reduce the risk of scratching from any dust that remains on the bodywork 5.Pay special attention to wiper blades – which may scratch the windscreen when sweeping ash across the glass surface – and side window seals – which may harbour dust that scratches windows as they are wound up and down 6.Rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove all shampoo from the car 7.Dry the car using a high quality microfibre drying towel or synthetic chamois 8.Apply a quality polish or high definition wax in order to provide a durable, long-lasting layer of protection, preventing further contaminants adhering to paintwork, and forming a barrier against acidic deposits 9.Use a specialist automotive rubber treatment to cleanse and protect rubber seals, wiper blades and tyre sidewalls 10.Wash frequently until the volcanic eruptions cease to minimise the risk of potential future damage More information about Autoglym’s range of premium car-care products, and details of nearby retailers, is available at www.autoglym.com or by calling 01462 677766

Waits until it is light to open bonet and see what condition mine is in.

Its all good man, No worries.

Update. IT WORKED!!!!!!!! Cheers again for the walkthrough. If anyone is worried about doing this the job took 5 mins tops, and I am no mechnic. I would only add one pointer to the procedure. Even though the system was cold there was still pressure in the coolant. Let the pressure out of the coolant system before you unplug the sensor. I got a facefull of coolant when it first came out, Mmmm bittersweet G12. :lol:

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 5&start=30

Thank you for a swift and very thorough response. Got the sensor last night, and Ill fit it this weekend. Top Banana.

Where is this blue temp sensor? I have very similar idle issues, Have replaced the ISV but to no avail. Has anyone a part number or could someone please advise how to locate the sensor?

Just Spat my Tea at the monitor. Brilliant. :lol:

You checked the voluntary and compulsory excess? How old are you? Yip, Same voluntry and compulsary excess, and Im 32. I called them to confirm and they said it was because confused.com assumed as I am insured on another vehicle, (the missus's) this was my 2nd car, and not the main car. As soon as I confirmed the facts it shot up to over £500. If it seems too good to be tru it probably is.

Cheers for your reply, Ive tried all the usual suspects too, but I am bewildered as to how these guys can be so much cheaper. I just wondered if anyone has any actual expereince of Performance direct.

Standard, and no more than 6k a year.

Hi all. Its that time of year again, Insurance. I have done the usual price comparison website thing, and am getting very varied results, but top of the pile is performance direct, who are over a hundred quid cheaper than the next best quote. has anyone expereince of them? are they a reasonable company?

Hi all. For a few months I have been plagued with dodgy running, nothing serious. Just fast idle on start up and hunting for revs till warm, and the occasional stutter when coming off the gas. I have changed, and cleaned ISV, cleaned up MAF. checked leads and plugs, and all sorts. Not once did it occur to me that a higher octane fuel was the answer. Last year when the fuel prices went mental I stopped using 98RON fuel. I kind of forgot it even existed, and only last week when I picked up the wrong pump by mistake did it occur to me I always used to use super unleaded. This week the car is a different beast. It starts right, revs settle down immediately, and doesn’t jump about like it used to. In hindsight it seems blindingly obvious, but thought it might be of use to someone.

It has not been the most unreliable car I have owned but Nearly, However no car I have had has put such a smile on my face both from driving it or solving some issue or other.

Brilliant, Cheers guys, You have confirmed exactly what I didn't want to hear. Ive only just replaced it with one of another car. How much are they?

Hi all, On cold mornings whe she is first turned on the idle is at about 1500, and takes a bit longer to stabalise, However after about 100 metres of driving it is fine again? Any ideas?

Hmm, Mighty difficult conundrum. The resistance depends on where the signal gets picked up from. On a Boxster the signal gets routed through the DME as the DME needs to be able to power the fans indipendantly of the ignition being switched on. Also whilst the pulses through the CAN BUS might be wired to recognise a set patern, the pulses that your engine send could be very different. Im sorry Jay, Im not sure we are going to get you a definitive answer to this one, just a case of hit and miss, or hardwiring it.

Ill do what I can man.

Jay, I work at Porsche, Might be able to get hold of wiring diagrams if you want. any idea on the vin of teh donor car, or what year the dash is?

Nasty, Can you get to all the screws to undoo the doorcard?