chrisw

Thanks for your reply. I've taken the subframe off now and it is not cross-threaded. You can see the captive nut through a small hole and it has obviously detached from the subframe and is just spinning with the bolt. I reckon I can now remove the nut but it will then be loose and trapped inside the frame. Any suggestions?

Hi all, I am currently replacing all the bushes, balljoints and bearings on my vr6. The problem is that the front bolt for the passengers side control arm is stripped and is just turning and turning with about 40Nm. It didn't crack off or loosen at all when it was undone. Makes me think somebody tightened it up, realised it was threaded and just left it. :mad: The other side had a replacement front bolt covered in threadlock. What are my chances of drilling this bolt out and cleaning up the captive nut succesfully? I am planning on taking the subframe off and mounting it in a proper drill press but I've never drilled out a bolt before. I was thinking of hacksawing the bolt and bush out to leave a stub, then drilling this till there is about a mill of bolt left round the outside and then trying to pick/chisel the remains out . Any suggestions? If I mangle my subframe how much will one from a breaker's be? Thanks, Chris W

Hi all, I've just changed the rear engine mount on a late vr6. The top bolt had sheared where it entered the mounting. The problem is that the engine moving has caused the locating lugs on the mount to shear off some of the wall of the seat the lugs sit in on the carrier (bolted to the engine). Has anyone changed the carrier in situ? Is it an easy job? Or do some of the replacement engine mounts not require the retaining lugs? I found access quite tight changing the rear mount, taking the right front wheel off helped for one of the bolts and a super long extension bar from above for the other. I loosened all the top bolts on the engine mounts and then there was plenty of play to jack the engine a few inch from under the sump and get the old mount out with a bit of manouvering round the driveshaft. Jacking under the block/transmission would be better for the front/gearbox mounting I think. Is it necessary to loosen all the mounts? I was a bit nervous about jacking the engine so I thought that would be safer. Thanks for any help, Chris

Hi, I lost the key to the wheel bolts on my new corrado about 2 weeks ago. The lost key looked the same as in your picture. A 14mm 12 point socket hammered onto the stub inside perfectly and would not come off after the bolts were removed (even with a vice/punch/lumphammer). I don't think you could have welded them on any stronger, so if you are desperate or the bolts are now rounded, 4x14mm sockets (£2 each at halfords) and a good breaker bar should do the trick. Took about 30 mins for the first one, worrying about hammering my wheels, 30 secs for the last one. Chris W (anyone want to buy some 1/2 inch drive chrome-vanadium wheel bolts :lol: )

Do you mean it will only work with the full scan apparatus? I would love to be able to access these codes w/ just a test bulb, or to wire up the ABS cluster fully: I opened up the module behind the ABS light cluster and you can see from the circuit board that there are gaps for two more bulbs and tracks on the circuit boards for them and some additional components. If you knew what components were supposed to go in the gaps it would be an easy soldering job to upgrade. Or is it missing a whole IC that does something tricky with the inputs?The Bentley diagram for the module has a line across it with a picture of a transistor but there aren't any transistors/chips in the module. Anyone got a picture of the inside of a fully wired cluster? Any american corrado owners willing to take a look inside their ABS cluster? Cheers for your help, Chris W

I have tried to follow the Bentley procedure for accessing the engine error codes through the ABS light cluster, however, the wiring on my Corrado (94 Vr6) seems totally different. Shorting pin 4 & 15 on the ODBII connector is fine but the Y/Bk wire that is supposedly behind the ABS light cluster and that outputs the blink codes is missing. Bentley says it should have an 8 way terminal behind the cluster but I have a white 7 way and a red 2 way, not present on any Bentley diagrams. Only 5 of the white 7 way wires have terminals and neither of the red 2 way wires do. 9 wires in total. The yellow/black should be connected to pin 5 of the ECU 68 way connector but I don't fancy trying to access it there. Any suggestions? Has anyone succesfully accessed the codes in this way on a UK Corrado? Cheers, Chris

Hi all, I am a proud new owner of a 94 VR6. I love it. I upgraded from a 1 litre Citroen AX :D I have been lurking for a while and learning a lot from this forum. My VR stalls occasionally when you clutch in pulling up after a long steady run, a common problem I gather. Apart from that it seems to run perfectly. A couple of small leaks as well, the oil cooler and the thermostat housing I think. I've taken the ISV valve out for a clean and checked its resistance. It's 8.3 ohms, whereas the Bentley I got with the car says it should be 10-20 ohms. Is this a cause for immediate replacement? Are there any other checks I can do on it? Presumably it should open/close at a certain voltage? Thanks Chris